bandit007 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Hi scanner sorted need E-Mail address to send plans to.Mike hi mike can i have a copy thanks email is n.boggie@ntlworld.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunners Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 IANi have sent you the plans hope they are some good :unsure: Mike I have sent you a PM, please could you forward a set to me please? Gunners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 hi mike can i have a copy thanks email is n.boggie@ntlworld.com You have mail plans sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 I have sent you a PM, please could you forward a set to me please? Gunners Your e-mail address ism not working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eagershooter Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 hi could you send me them too my email address is thorja2009@gmail.com regards james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil1965 Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) Can i have a copy of those plans too mate, my address is nwright_@talktalk.net Edited April 26, 2011 by neil1965 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrikirkby Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 Here is a couple vids of mine i made you can sort of see how its made ! http://youtu.be/sDFIdKhHrHc http://youtu.be/dB6hEaCXI1A Escort van wiper motor from scrappy and some steel plate ,studding etc and 2 6 volt motorbike batteries. Can either have it super fast on 12 volt or speed in vids is 6 volt. Could do with a speed controller really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macey Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sent a PM to you Hawkeye about the Plans, If you would be so kind to send me a copy would be great. Thanks Macey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeonstool Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Try these pictures.... http://s856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/TheEssexHunter/rotary/?action=view¤t=rotary2a.jpg TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Try these pictures.... http://s856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/TheEssexHunter/rotary/?action=view¤t=rotary2a.jpg TEH Also this might help.... The parts that are needed are as follows. Windscreen wiper motor and the bracket that it comes with from a car 1.4mts of 10mm diameter mild steel rod 1 piece of mild steel sheet 150x100x2mm 300mm length of 25mm diameter steel tube 100mm length of steel tube with an internal dia of 25.4mm 13mm socket (3/8) drive 150mm x 20 x 5 mm mild steel flat bar 80mm piece of mild steel box section approx internal size of 13/14/15 mm 180mm piece of mild steel round section or box section to fit in to above box section. Two bonnet stays from scrap cars approx 1mtr in length with a diameter of 6/8mm. Two pieces of 50x50x2/3mm weld mesh 300x150mm Four crocodile clips and length of 1.5mm diameter steel wire Fibre or nylon washers to reduce friction. (From plumbers merchant or bearing suppliers or make them from sheet material) Two steel washers 25mm outside/diamanter and 10mm internal/diameter Before you attempt to undertake the building of this rotary, make sure you work safely and use reverent safety equipment! After you have located all the parts, strip the windscreen motor (picture1) and trim down original bracket (picture2/2a) so that the three ground spikes will clear the motor when welded to the bracket (spikes approx 300mm) Shape the 150x100x2mm so it will fit (picture2) remember your bracket may be different to mine, depending what vehicle it is from! However, it should resemble something like (picture3). Once you have a good fit you can mark out the locating holes and the centre hole from the back, then drill these out, filling out the centre hole will be safer as the dia is over 25mm! (picture3/4) Tack weld the short piece of tube (picture 3/4/5) to the plate, making sure it is not protruding through and it is square and true, bolt the plate to the main bracket and to the motor and check that the spindle is in the centre of the tube, if so remove and fully weld, you may need to elongate your 3 fixing holes to help out with the centring of the spindle. Depending on which direction you decide to run you rotary I would advice to weld the nut, which came off the spindle, to the spindle, this is properly the most critical part to the build, as you do not want to melt your motor, so take great care! The size of the nut will determine the size of socket, which in turn will drive the rotary, make sure that you check the socket does fit the nut! (Mine was a 13mm nut) In (picture5/5a/6) you will see a notch filed out and a small pip welded and shaped to fit the slot this was done so the long piece of tube stays at the same height every time and also enables the weight of the rotary to run on a crude bearing and not put the weight on the motor as they are not designed to take thrust in that way. As you will have seen on the parts list there are two different dia of tube required, the dimensions I have given are close to what are on my rotary and you can change to suit your own build, a close fit is recommended, not to tight or loose as it has to work in the field and I have made it so it will break into two half’s to fit in to a ruck sack. The position of the pip on the long tube should be around 70/ 80mm this will allow the tube to fit over the spindle, but no so long as to foul on the motor housing which is tapered (picture5a/6) with that completed. Take a length of the 10mm diameter rod approximately 320mm in length and file/grind one end to a square. To fit the square of your socket, if your make this a tight fit then you can drive the rod into the socket and roll the rod on a flat surface allowing you to check that the socket is running true prior to welding. (A good tip is to clean off any chrome on the square end of the socket prior to welding) This done you know have the drive rod, so assemble the base and the long tube using the slot and pip, slide the drive rod and socket down over the nut on the spindle, you will need 2 steel washers with some clearance on the 10mm rod. Then take the piece of 150x20x5mm and drill a 10mm hole in the centre of the bar (picture7/7a) then form the flat bar with an angle on both ends approx 10/15 deg (picture7/7a) if you make the bar into 3 sections of 50mm this will keep things even. Cut one washer in half, place the second washer over the rod, and check that it is centred on the tube. Tack weld the washer and place the two half’s of the second washer on top of the first, then place the bar on top, tack in place check that it sits even then you can fully weld the washer and bar The reason for the split washer is so you will leave clearance to place a thrust washer to act as a bearing) Cut-off reaming execs rod. To fit you’re “bearing” snip the nylon washer on one side and it will slide over the rod. Moving on to the arms, I used a piece of round bar and ground one end square to fit the box section about 45mm which I welded on to the angled flat bar see (picture7) One piece of box section inside another will work fine but remember to weld a small pip to stop the box sliding through, a good size to use around 12/13/14mm. My arms are made of square section steel what I had to hand, but using the bonnet stays from scrap cars is less expensive! In addition, in turn does not use up new steel! Around a meter in length for the arms is ok, I used a piece of lead with the same weight of a big pigeon and held the arm in a vice and gave it a good bounce to check it out! The cradles are made out of 50x50 2/3mm weld mesh (picture 8) if you count the squares, this will give you the size, I formed the mesh so the birds body sits in the cradle and the sides are angled down a bit, it is not hard to re-bend the mesh to suit. The two centre spikes, which can be made from the off cuts when making the cradle, they need to be placed so; the middle of the breast can be pushed on to them. The spike for the head is placed so it goes in to the throat, (bend the cradle and the placement of these will be obvious) Making the wing clips is fairly simple, take a 200mm length of your 1.5mm wire fold in half put the folded end in the vice and twist the wire about its self not to tight. Take a crocodile clip and push the folded end through the hole in the clip and secure with the fixing screw and close the end of the clip over the wire. Place a bird on the cradle and open a wing so it’s in that classic position, bend the wire in a J shape and allow your self enough material to secure around the cradle as to hold the wing at about ¾ of its length. (picture 8/9/10) I mixed up some brown paint and then dabbed green paint here and there, once it had dried, I used a kitchen-cleaning pad to knock of the shine, a length of twin core flex with terminals to suit the motor and spade ends for the battery (I would solder the ends as well as crimping to be safe) I hope you enjoy building the rotary as much as I did, there have been a couple of modifications it the time I have had it. In addition, a repair to the cradles as I run over them with my quad when they fell off on the trip back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deny essex Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Has anybody used a 12 volt battery drill motor for a magnet? they are cheap as at the moment at homebase, 20 quid, and you get a variable speed trigger with it, dont suppose the battery is any good but Im sure that the motor would be spot on. yes used one but it loved the batteries , drained them quickly , I used a 6 volt battery drill motor and a 6volt 7AH battery , drained in about 30 mins constant running and eventualy with not much use the motor went into meltdown, they dont like constant running and that was useing artificial lightweight decoys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinc Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Hi mate can I have a copy please Cheers Martin c yea no trouble rob can you hang on a few days there are eight pages and i want to scan them and put into a file that i can E-Mail that will be quicker that photocopying and then posting. will try to do first chance i get. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Pm me your e-mail address to send to.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinc Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 [quote name='hawkeye' Pm me your e-mail address to send Hi mate it's Mcarroll@sky.com Thanks Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshdavid Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Can i Please have a copy of those plans. im trying to lighten the one ive got which is made out of steel plate and a windscreen motor. a real pain in the **** to carry through a field. :no: email: welshdavid@hotmail.co.uk Edited July 20, 2012 by welshdavid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breeze Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 (edited) hi, i made one a few years ago out windscreen wiper motor off an old toyota corrola. I just welded a plate with a hole in it to the drive shaft comming out of the gearbox then some small box to the plate and so on. It did work really well but for £65 for a proper one i dont think its worth the bother. Edited July 22, 2012 by breeze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colliwobbles Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Another 1 for a set of plans please Hawkeye. Colin_stratts@hotmail.com Cheers Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Just look on utube, plenty of videos of make your own magnets, a friend made me one for nothing out of a wiper motor and a few bits of flat bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 My 13 year old grandson made his own magnet today from bits and pieces around my workshop. He did all the welding himself and went home chuffed with his project. Grandad pleased as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_bri Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Has anyone got a copy of the plans ? I want to try and make 1 Thanka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APV Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-VqSXsY--Y Looks good. :good: (THE MAGNET) Edited March 3, 2013 by APV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_bri Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks How do u detach the arms for transport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilberts1989 Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Here's my prototype i made last week http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/AAB52EA9-0D84-407F-B405-C70B8495E476-4310-000002E51FA602B5_zpse3544662.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilberts1989 Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Made a jig using some tacks for the bit that spins http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/7B524B2B-89E4-4D3E-B8C1-4265E51B94BB-4310-000002E518AA2365_zpsb7d2ddd3.jpg Made it so the arms are welded to a piece of square tube that slides onto solid square bar http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/FA1BD0D3-04BD-495A-A00F-B0BE207B24CC-4310-000002E4F8FB4181_zpsb8048f7c.jpg The base screws of so that longer pole can be put in for tall crop http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/D09C8FD9-FEF4-4D55-9687-6D628F43D2DF-4310-000002E52501B13C_zps58fcaa64.jpg I'm yet to make a speed controller. Fast setting http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/E0424005-B35A-4FBE-B2EB-36476BC04C9E-4310-000002E506C78787_zps559e7bd8.mp4 Slow setting http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o793/gilberts89/2CAFF3EC-6BE3-4A70-8906-50A4FB4537F0-4310-000002E4FF2DD223_zps4f34ed04.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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