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pavman
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Guys,

 

The build of the new run (my first) for the pup is going well the 12 X 8 base is in along with the clear weather roofing, and the drain is all connected & tested, electrics for lighting/heat and the water connection to follow. I must now decide the type of sleeping quarters to provide and the best type of bedding for all round use/care.

 

Assuming the dog will at times be a little wet, I have been advised that infer red lamps from suitable dog care supplies are ideal to help warm/dry a dog at the end of a days work, after the initial rub down when kennelled for the night, but what would be the best bedding type, I was thinking of a thermal clad small shed as use for the kennel, say a 4 X 3 they sell locally as garden tool chests and would be easy to convert and insulate, and very affordable, but as for bedding ? I assume there would be a preferred type suitable for a run environment, as always your comments please.

 

pavman

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My favourite is red ceder shavings. Not only are these very arromic, making your puppy a pleasure to always be around, but the shavings act as a natural tick and flea replelant. The shavings will pick up any moisture and contain it for easy removal.

Personally instead of the infra red heat bulbs I would install a small radiant heat unit suspended from the ceiling . This will give a much more evan heat distribution, and will not have the fire hazard that the heat lamps do.

Keep up the good work, sounds like he is going to be spoiled like all good dogs should be......NTTF

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The shaving are available through several mail orders, but I would check with your local pet supply or farm supply dealer first. Another good source would be a wood working shop that works with either eastern white ceder or western red ceder. If you cant find anything over there let me know and I will see what I can find for you. Yes raise the bedding off the floor, then you can either contain it in a dog bed or leave them loose.

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NTTF I just found this when searching for an outlet to buy shavings, could you comment please as I am now a little confused

 

"Quote"

 

Why can't I use cedar wood chips for guinea pigs?

Katelyn

Dear Katelyn

 

Cedar and pine shavings are commonly available pet bedding products - but are they harmful to the very animals for which they are intended?

 

Cedar and pine became popular for pet bedding material because they are good at controlling odour and have some natural insecticidal properties (they kill or repel bugs, especially cedar). These softwood shavings smell nice due to the volatile compounds (e.g. aromatic hydrocarbons, phenols) that are given off. Unfortunately these compounds have been implicated as a potential health risk, especially with regards to respiratory problems (asthma, inflammation, allergic responses) and changes in the liver.

 

Pine and cedar toxins affect more than the respiratory tract. Several studies have shown that rodents kept on softwood bedding have elevated levels of liver enzymes. The liver is the body's detoxification system, and elevated liver enzymes indicate that the body is working harder to eliminate toxins.

 

Studies of laboratory animals which have been exposed to the wood toxicity have shown fairly dramatic changes in liver enzymes on animals housed on cedar bedding. This in turn can effect the metabolism of drugs including anaesthetics as and when they need to be given, but a direct link between these changes and disease or clinical symptoms hasn't been as clear.

 

However, based on the studies that implicate the compounds in allergic and respiratory diseases as well as the impact on liver enzymes, it seems prudent to avoid cedar shavings as bedding or litter, especially since alternatives are available such as dust extracted, untreated wood shavings and plenty of hay which serves as bedding, nesting material and the staple forage.

 

Best Wishes

Elizabeth

 

err sounds a bit of a downer for the cedar then? :):)

 

pavman

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Pavman:

 

It may be because guinea pigs, hamsters, and other rodents have a tendancy to chew their bedding. That is the first that I have heard of any problems being linked to ceder or pine shavings. If it is of any help I have kept my horses on pine shavings, and never had a problem, (walnut shavings yes as the tanic acid is absorbed by the frog), as well as my dogs on pine and or ceder for years. Most of these dogs have lived to be 12 to 16 years old with no health problems like those described. My last horse past away last Dec. at the age of 37 and had been kept on pine shavings since she was foaled.

If you are concerned call your local Veterinary collage/research center and ask them if there are any real concerns to using this type of bedding. If you do call please post their response, so that we all know.

 

NTTF

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ollie hi

 

I was led to believe that straw was not to be used as it can cause breathing problems and will harbour ticks & mites?

I'm not sure pavman but we have always used it and we haven't had problems with the dogs, they have all lived to a fair age.

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Pavman,

 

the kennel and run sounds superb .. well done.

 

Don't forget YOU will have to fit inside the kennel for maint. work and cleaning / disinfecting the floor, 4 x 3 will have you on your hand's and knee's in the **** :)

 

A flat roof makes a good launch pad over the fence. :)

 

Best bedding (IMO) is shreded paper .. do you know any large office's ??

plus it's free :lol: just burn it each time the bedding is replace. The requirement is for the bed to be raised off the floor.

 

No need for any heating in this country but remember if you install a lamp (NTTF has the better solution with a radiant heater) it will be dangling from the ceiling with chewable 240v cable, Lab's will chew anything. (4 x 3 in size)

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Guys,

 

Thanks for the invaluable feed back,

 

I will check with my vets as to the effects of shavings if any are known and post the response. Sounds like they are safe for dogs from your experience NTTF and I value you comments.

 

I take your point about kennel height RR, with regard to access for cleaning & electrics for heating, so will have a re think, My plan was to shield the heater/light within a strong mesh screen to keep safe. Also the run has a clear plastic corrugated sheet roof (its 6ft high) to keep the worst of the weather off, but allow full light in, and as the sides are shiplap timber and mesh the whole area is completely enclosed, yet allows a good circulation of air for ventilation and cooling etc.

 

Pup arrives around April 6th :):):lol: so I have time to get it right, of course it wont be housed in the run at first due to weather and its age,

 

What would be a general time frame/age as to when a pup can be housed outside in the UK, or if the weather is warm enough at what age ?

 

pavman

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PAVMAN

I have a set of plans for insulated dog house here somewhere, it shows how to set the wiring up so the dog cant get to it and how to heat it with a 50 watt light bulb. Let me give it a look see today for them....might even know where theey are... :) , which is scary on to its self as I dont remember anything anymore. If I find it I will scan it in and post it for you.

 

NTTF

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Okay had a look through all of my saved info, and cannot find the article, so I will try to explain it as best that I can.

 

materials needed;

1)single light bulb fixture, with mounting box

2)one clean never had paint in it paint can, 1gal. (usually available at hardware store.

3)enough steel covered electric cord to wire from your kennel to an outlet.....sorry not an electrician so do not know the proper names for you.

4) an outlet plug in

 

How to;

using a drill, drill a pattern of holes in the bottom of the paint can and along its sides. This is to allow the heat to escape into the dog house.

Drill a hole through the lid of the paint can to accept you steel covered ( the flexible type) electric wire. Bring your wire through the lid of the paint can and wire your electric box and light lixture. Screw or bolt the electric box to the centre of the lid.

Drill a hole through your dog house to accommodate the electric cord. Feed the wire through the hole in the dog house and mount lid with Light fixture to dog house.

Now when you plug it in you have a light fixture come on in the dog house, place the bottom of the paint can over the light fixture and push onto lid tightly. This prevents the dog from breaking the bulb or being able to get at any of the wiring keeping him safe.

The reason for using the steel covered wire is so that rodents can't chew through it as it will be outside.

 

I have not personally used this idea as my dogs are in a large kennel building, but from what I understand by those that have , is it will keep water from freezing inside the dog house through out our winters over here, so I think it would keep your pup more than comfortable.

I know one person that even put a dimmer switch in to the set up so he could control the temperature better. This same person also wired in an alarm that would sound in the house if the bulb burnt out.

 

Hope this helps, I know it is not written great but I really know nothing about electricity, other than it bites. I am sure that some of those in the know on here can help clarify it up for you if you want to go ahead with it.

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NTTF

 

Although getting fat behind a desk just now, fortunately I have trade training in elec-tricary!

 

I understand where you are coming from, I have found an un used oil filled electric radiator with a thermostat so it will cut in and out as required, and as pointed out by RR this will now be housed behind a thick wire gauge mesh screen for protection from chewing, the cable run will be in armour cable (steel wrap) and fitted with a circuit protection breaker, so if the dog did manage to get hold of the safely routed cable and had a swiss army knife to get in, the circuit breaker would disconnect the supply voltage before any sparks could fly :):)

 

If anyone is interested I could take some pics of the run progress to post (if I find out how) let me know.

 

pavman

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah pavman ???

Your doghouse sounds very good :huh: be sure to take some piccys and post em up so we can see your handy work(don't forget the inners too).

The floor of the sleeping quarters need to be raised off the floor a good 2-3"( i think ??? ).

Well done mate. :lol::lol:

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We use a plastic 45 gallon drum on its side with 3/4 of one end cut off. mount it on a wooden cradle flat on it's side and put a wooden platform in the bottom with a dog mat or carpets. The dog can get in and out very easily and is up off the cold concrete floor, no need for heating. We have two labs and a springer outside all year with no problems.

 

Mark.

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