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foxbasher

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  1. Hadn't thought of that, do they keep records of the pieces they frame? I know their not worth mega money but I would hate to sell them at the bootsale for a few quid an then find out their worth a hundred or two. Their not old, i think one is dated 2008
  2. Thanks all, cracking advice. Its a weird mix of stuff to be honest. There's a couple of larger items from komlós kerámia of Budapest, a George 3rd stick barometer that's nice but needs a little work and some art that I have no idea who the artist is by the signature but it's been professionally frames by a place in London so I wouldn't imagine it's all that cheap
  3. Evening all don't suppose any members on the forum are in the arts and antiques trade, preferably based in the South. I've a few items that I'm looking for an opinion on but don't want to run the gauntlet of evil Bay or taking to a shop that's gonna take me for a mug🤔 Cheers fb
  4. Have a look at the gasket in the impeller housing that seals around the drive shaft. I had an older dt6 that had a similar problem, in the end I had the recess in the housing machined a little deeper so I could press in two seals one on top of the other.
  5. Land rover roof top box with mounting clamps, i think it was originally for a discovery 3 or 4. It has a few scrapes and scratches from low branches and storage. I have a replacement set of keys turning up in the next day or two so it will come with a brand new pair. Collection only from fareham hants. £200
  6. When I got it, the stock had a really nasty laquer finish and it was really rough. I used a paint and varnish stripper made by rustins I think and that took all of it off in one or two applications. After cleaning it off with white spirits I finished it with Liberton finishing oil. As per the instructions on the tin, I started with one or two heavy applications every few hours before turning to a light coat every 24hours for about 8-9 days. You can get the finish as deep and as lustrous as you want by applying light coats every day but patients and restraint is the key to get a good finish.
  7. It'll hold its own compared to modern stuff in the same sort of price bracket. ive had 1" at 80-90yds with ppu ammo. Most of what I do is woodland roe and foxes so I've not needed to push distances much further than that. I'm sure with some home loads and some action and trigger work it could achieve a lot more
  8. foxbasher

    Crosman eb22

    Don't suppose there's one sat in a cabinet or cupboard anywhere?? Considering buying new but wanted to see if there was a good deal on a used one around first. Pms please
  9. Paid about £200 for my Parker hale and put about £20 of oil and 24hours of work in to the stock. From what i can remember the screw cutting on the muzzle was to 1/2"unf and cost about £80 without proof. If I ever part with it I'll have to send it to the proof house for testing before I pass it on.
  10. I went the same way with my first deer rifle. I bought a Parker hale 1200 deluxe that was in a proper shabby shape. I gave the action a full strip and clean, refinished the stock and had the muzzle screwcut. I quite like it now compared to modern budget rifles. Photos uploading
  11. Haha not ford or any other type of escort, sorry my bad. I can just see it now.... Lots of chrome bits and cherry bomb exhausts turning up in the post lol Lol apologies all, title thread now edited.
  12. Evening all, on the lookout for some Mk3 escort bits if there's anything going cheap. Looking for a set of extended chokes (v3 type) and a mag tube extension to replace the end cap on the mag tube. Pms please, cheers fb
  13. Most of the ones i have still function, the rest could do with a bit of tlc. I only picked them up originally as I hadn't seen them before and they mad good man den adornments.
  14. Apologies for the picture quality but here's a few photos Haha Ps.... The granade is a resin one
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