aister

well done buddy, good feeling when it all comes together :good:

thanks kent and cottonseed for your quick replies, you pretty much confirmed what i was thinking, cheers :good:

im sure i read somewhere that cz had a way of guaranteeing a properly lined up chamber and bore but i cant remember where i saw it.

i had my mind set on a cz but my rfd has just got in a mint ruger, no more than 100 rounds through it, £600. can any of you help towards a decision, thanks in advance, aister

thanks for sharing, i enjoyed that, well done :good:

great pics as usual, well done :good:

if my variation comes through then i will be looking at a 6.5x55 and a hornet so fingers crossed :good:

i love the 32gr 4's for duck and the 28gr 7.5's for sporting clays. pricy, but i dont go through that many.

the one i have on my .223 is made by garlands and you can get them from the glasgow angling center for £9.

well done buddy, lovely old gun. better to see it there on the foreshore than hanging on a wall :good:

when i fitted the trigger kit to my brno it had fired somewhere in the region of 8000-10000 rounds and the kit still made a difference. it changed it from being gritty and heavy to predictable and lighter. none of the 3 rifles i fitted kits to have had really light triggers because as we both agree they can be dangerous in the field, what i want in a trigger is predictability.

totaly disagree. how can a light, crisp trigger be a henderence??? yes, a trigger that is to light can be a danger but not a hinderance. both my brno and the cz had heavy gritty triggers and the kit sorted that out and the trigger i put in the remi was £90 and it got rid of the horrendous creep and 5 ton trigger pull.

my brno 22 and the cz 17 i used to have had trigger kits from south yorkshire shooting supplies, worth it for £14 delivered very easy to fit too

my first 30-06 was a BDL and it couldnt keep 3 shots on an A4 sheet of paper at 100 yards, my RFD sent it back to the supplier and they said "the boring of the barrel had been a friday job" and they gave me a new one, but it took weeks and weeks to get sorted.

have you been to shetland before?

for the main lerwick up helly aa, it mostly the same team every year but for the small country up helly aa's its up to the jarl squad to make there onwn galley, thats if they burn there galley. some of the country jarl squads make a new galley every year, others use the same one every year and just burn an old boat after the procession.

we did did speak about making a punt for my RFD's punt gun. i had a book with plans for a gunning punt that would suit the weight of gun he has. i think i am right in saying i saw plans in one of hawkers books? maybe some day if i am spared

ugartechia?

beautiful gun buddy, great to see it being used :good:

al second that :good:

we were debating whether to paint it or varnish it but since its meant to be a scaled down version of the up helly aa galley then we should really paint it, heres a couple of pics of up helly aa galleys so you get the idea.

only joking theres another door off to the side. thanks for all your replies, i think when its painted it will really set it off.

oh carp :o :o :o

i used to work for a company doing nothing but new houses and buildings, it got so boring doing the same thing day after day after day, then 4 years ago i got an offer of a job working for a trust that was set up to look after some of shetlands oldest buildings, it's brilliant and very interesting working with some of the old boys that really know there stuff, theres not much we do that i dont enjoy. we have other things we do as well and lately we have been doing work in a new museum that is opening and for the past two weeks me and another guy have been building a small viking galley for the children to play in. i thought i would share some pics with you as it is certainly the first viking galley (and probably the last) i would build. its been a good laugh, better than tiling roofs for months on end. ready for painting.

when i bought my browning it had the same marks on the chamber face and the action face, i got it off with 500 grit wet/dry wrapped around a flat piece of wood and held flat on the face of the chamber/ejectors, came up like new. any bits needing attention that is not flat i would use fine steel wool