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Shooting a .222 out to 300 yards.


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should be able to pick one up for around £100, the golf ones are ok as a rough guide as long as you know the height of something youre looking at :balloon:

 

 

not no good then if you have to go round measuring things so you know the size of them :hmm:

 

most people can judge 200 yds after that you will be surprised on the change distance makes on things. just keep an eye out on eBay youll be surprised what you can pick up.

 

Buy cheap but twice, mine cost over £700 but i'll never need to buy another pair again

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I must be really anal. Whenever I zero up I always use a 100 metre surveyors tape. I just don't trust those electronic doo-dads and pacing is too inaccurate.

 

On the plus side at £30 they're a helluva lot cheaper!

 

 

What you gonna do out in the field hunting then, creep up on mr rabbit, ask him to hold your tape while you go back to your rifle with the other end, read the distance make the adjustment the take the shot :balloon::hmm:

 

rangefinders, decent ones will give you an accurate reading +/- yard

Edited by snowz
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Good shooting Frenchie.

 

Next test, .17 HMR at 100, 200 and 300 yards :balloon:

 

 

EDIT: Snowz, we dont all use range finders for shooting live quarry mate :hmm:

 

 

im not saying you do or have to. I was saying how to get an accurate range as pacing out is not accurate :D

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they can be useful, if I'm sitting out I'll know the distances to each field boundary. Last night we sat and on checking had 200 yards one way and 260 the other, If you have to take a longer shot than usual it always helps, don't bother checking before each shot though as I have a rough idea

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so was the drop you were getting the difference between the top of the paper and the bull? Its an interesting thing to try I've not pushed my .223 much distance wise but will have to give it a punt now stubble is about. Interestingly 96 of my paces is 100 yards according to my rangefinder

 

Sorry Al4x mate, maybe I should have taken the time to explain that part a bit better.

When I first started (Before I started the video going) I just put a couple of Partizans through the Bruno at a tin can to check the zeroing. I always use Partizan which is why I keep my Bruno zeroed for Partizan Ammunition as I am a bit of a tight *** and I can get them at £10 per box compared with the £17.95 a box that I was charged for the Sako (I will not be buying them again). I then fired the three Sako rounds through the Bruno at the target you see while the Bruno was still zeroed for Partizan as I was only really interested in how well the Sako grouped, that is why the POI using the Sako is where it is. If I had re-zeroed for the Sako I would no doubt have got them in the middle of the target but I would then have had to re-zero yet again to go back to the Partizan ammunition which I have a reasonable stock of.

The fact that the Sako are so high up on the target is nothing to do with drop or anything like that, it is purely the difference between the Sako and the Partizan Ammunitions POI.

That is no doubt as clear as mud now!

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