Brick Built Shed

[Marcus]

Hi Guys

 

I am intending to replace my wooden shed with a brick one.

 

The base I have prepared is 2m x 2m. I would like the shed to be 6foot tall, slightly slanting roof.

 

Not sure if I need 'breeze blocks' or 'concrete bocks', or even if these things are the same as each other.

 

How many would I need to get in to complete said project?

 

Also, if a proper brickie was doing the 'brick shed' how long would it take him (as it sure as hell will take me 3 times longer) just to give me an idea, as if its more than a 1/2 a day I will get someone in to do it.

 

Thanks in advance

Edited October 24, 2010 by Marcus

[WGD]

Get a brickie in.

[Cookiemonsterandmerlin.]

A very rough guide it would be 900 to 1000 brickie and it would really take two days and you would want a opo as well.

 

Its def a brickie job before going ahead get a couple of quotes in .

 

Here a job I done this year.

 

 

Cheers OTH

[V8landy]

You might need planning permission as it will now not technically be a temporary structure

Edited October 24, 2010 by V8landy

[Marcus]

Cheers OTH - Nice looking wall.

 

900 - 1000 bricks - would that be for the small bricks as in your wall ? How many do you think for breeze blocks?

[WGD]

A very rough guide it would be 900 to 1000 brickie and it would really take two days and you would want a opo as well.

 

Bricks yes, but only approx 150 blocks exc openings and waste. As said, get a brickie in.

[Marcus]

You might need planning permission as it will now not technically be a temporary structure

 

Didnt think of that - I'll take a chance I think............

[Hucky]

Hi m8, unless you opt for blocks and render over, as said, get a brickie in. This is a really good website for all things brick and block related - cracking guy as well. http://www.pavingexpert.com/home.htm helped me no end with patio / drive and extension. Blocks are equivalent to 6 bricks. I have used both brick and block, but cheated by using Brickmat - http://www.brikmat.com/ - not cheap, but cheaper than a brickie. I built same as you, did 2'6" in rendered block with a 3'6" heavy T&G top, then roofed in tile - looks not too bad and has lasted 10 years so far. Cost around £700 10 years ago...... and that was doing it all myself !

[snowz]

if you lay the first course wrong and out of level/square it will end up a all wrong, by the sounds of it you aren't a brickie and you wont have the skill/experience to do it and do it right, why waste time and money doing it wrong when you can get it done by a professional. also as said above check planning as not a temporary building

[V8landy]

you should be OK?

 

 

Under new regulations that came into effect on 1 October 2008 outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions:

 

*

No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation.

*

Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.

*

Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse.

*

No verandas, balconies or raised platforms.

*

No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings.

*

In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the maximum area to be covered by buildings, enclosures, containers and pools more than 20 metres from house to be limited to 10 square metres.

*

On designated land* buildings, enclosures, containers and pools at the side of properties will require planning permission.

*

Within the curtilage of listed buildings any outbuilding will require planning permission.

 

 

 

*The term "original house" means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date). Although you may not have built an extension to the house, a previous owner may have done so.

 

*Designated land includes national parks and the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, conservation areas and World Heritage Sites.

[Cookiemonsterandmerlin.]

If you go for blocks get good quality the high density ones but take you time due to weight of the blocks it maybe you can only do 3 cousres a day as they tend to sink in joints .

 

10mm joints and make sure its square by measuring across from corner to corner and make then be 100% the same or it will be out of square.

 

And also ad a plastercister in the muck.

 

And if you dont paint the outside unibond it to stop the wet getting in to the blocks.

 

Cheers OTH

[V8landy]

How about this?

 

 

http://www.brickytool.com/index_eng.html

 

 

Edited October 24, 2010 by V8landy

[Cookiemonsterandmerlin.]

15 MM joints thats a new one on me its always been 10mm joints no more no less.

 

Cheers OTH

[snowz]

seen them videos before, showed my work mates who are brickies and we laughed for ages.

 

One of the bought it to try and it soon ended up thrown across the site in to the skip

 

if laying bricks / block was that easy everyone would do it them selves and we wouldn't need brickies

[vampire]

For a 2m x 2m shed you need the following,assuming you only have one door;

840 bricks OR 140 blocks,+ building sand/cement/feb/dpc assuming you are building off raft foundation,and you dont need planning permission as its classed as permitted development,but you should check with your local authority as mistakes are costly

Oh,and its not a diy job,so get a proffesional in or hire some corner profiles and just mark 0.075mm guage to your desired height and just run in with no raising corners,but i have seen brickies mess up even using these so always check and check again.

You should be able to get a tradesman for about £100/150 a day and it will take 2/3 days absolute maximum.

[juby trap]

Hi Guys

 

I am intending to replace my wooden shed with a brick one.

 

The base I have prepared is 2m x 2m. I would like the shed to be 6foot tall, slightly slanting roof.

 

Not sure if I need 'breeze blocks' or 'concrete bocks', or even if these things are the same as each other.

 

How many would I need to get in to complete said project?

 

Also, if a proper brickie was doing the 'brick shed' how long would it take him (as it sure as hell will take me 3 times longer) just to give me an idea, as if its more than a 1/2 a day I will get someone in to do it.

 

Thanks in advance

just enough would be ideal

[Marcus]

Thanks for the replies.

 

I will get a brickie in. Should I get the blocks in or leave it to him?

[Marcus]

For a 2m x 2m shed you need the following,assuming you only have one door;

840 bricks OR 140 blocks,+ building sand/cement/feb/dpc assuming you are building off raft foundation,and you dont need planning permission as its classed as permitted development,but you should check with your local authority as mistakes are costly

Oh,and its not a diy job,so get a proffesional in or hire some corner profiles and just mark 0.075mm guage to your desired height and just run in with no raising corners,but i have seen brickies mess up even using these so always check and check again.

You should be able to get a tradesman for about £100/150 a day and it will take 2/3 days absolute maximum.

 

 

Thanks - all a bit technical for me so will get a brickie in. The day rate / timescale is useful, thanks

[mikee]

1m² = 60 bricks or 10 blocks, you will need enough for about 13.5m² allowing for a door of about 2.0m² so thats just over 800 bricks or about 140 blocks for a shed that is 2m tall

 

mikee

[njc110381]

To be honest I'd let the builder get the blocks. There's a good chance they'll get a good discount on them so even if they add 10% on the materials they'll probably end up costing no more than they would cost you anyway.

 

I hate it when people buy materials for me. Quite often they're poor quality because they don't know what they're looking at and even more often than that they get robbed for them. It would be much better for both of us if I could buy something decent, slap on 10% for myself and still end up doing a better job of it for less money!

[vampire]

To be honest I'd let the builder get the blocks. There's a good chance they'll get a good discount on them so even if they add 10% on the materials they'll probably end up costing no more than they would cost you anyway.

 

I hate it when people buy materials for me. Quite often they're poor quality because they don't know what they're looking at and even more often than that they get robbed for them. It would be much better for both of us if I could buy something decent, slap on 10% for myself and still end up doing a better job of it for less money!

The above is fine,but remember to check delivery notes to make sure you have got what ya man has charged you for and if any gets left over it needs to be credited back and monies paid back to you + 10%,or your paying for air

I now give my customers (once contract signed)a comprehensive shopping list,saves me going into vat,they get nearly same deal as me or cash sale on my account and they think i am the best as i have not over gharged them and then gone out of my way to get them a cheap deal,all this and i dont have to worry about damaged goods etc,its same with skips and scaffolds,i let customer go direct to my contract supplier and the legal bit is not me ,and all i would gain is 10% profit and 100% aggro

[Ricko]

Maybe get in touch with a local college and get a final year apprentice in to do it for cash, get feedback from the college tutor and any other jobs that he has done, it shouldn't be technically difficult and you can always roof it yourself.

Just a thought.

[Pauly-c-]

i work at a builders mercant an there are many diff type bloke used for this type of job. 100mm solid concreet block. or 140mm solid concreet there are also paint grade witch can be painted striaght over with standerd paint. any more info mate let me no ill help u out the best i can

[Cookiemonsterandmerlin.]

The above is fine,but remember to check delivery notes to make sure you have got what ya man has charged you for and if any gets left over it needs to be credited back and monies paid back to you + 10%,or your paying for air

I now give my customers (once contract signed)a comprehensive shopping list,saves me going into vat,they get nearly same deal as me or cash sale on my account and they think i am the best as i have not over gharged them and then gone out of my way to get them a cheap deal,all this and i dont have to worry about damaged goods etc,its same with skips and scaffolds,i let customer go direct to my contract supplier and the legal bit is not me ,and all i would gain is 10% profit and 100% aggro

 

Vampire are you in the trade if so what size projects do you take on,I am only intrested due to your statement about getting the customer to buy materials .

 

Cheers OTH

[Dougy]

Another quick tip is, dont build on a raft or you will allways get water or damp coming in.

Footings,2 rows of blocks then the base on damp proof, that should stop the damp coming through

I'm not a bricky but learnt from experience