What disolves Tru-Oil (But not varnish)?

[poorpeet]

I thought that the wood work on my Miroku was oiled. It looked a little patchy so I thought rubbing a little oil in would help restore it. Needless to say it took forever to go off and even now, 2 weeks later, it feels a little tacky.

I've tried waxing over it but it's not helped so how can a get rid of the layer Tru-Oil without damaging the original finish?

[apache]

Try some methylated spirits. You might have softened the top layer of varnish and have to strip it right back to bare wood.

[seeker]

I thought the Mirokus had an 'oil type' finish sprayed on As Apache says, try meths but it may take it back to bare wood. If so consider one of the stocks oil finish kits if ypu want to diy.

[poorpeet]

Yeah, I was told it had a sprayed on oil finish to. But (Just!) afterwards I found that they had a lacquer finish.

I've emailed Birchwood Casy in the States and asked their advice as I don't want to make matters worse.

[libs]

You could steam the wood back to its natural state and start over, its a tad time consuming but if you take the time the results are great.

 

Good luck either way

[mattslaptop247]

nitromors the lot off, then applly your own oil finish!

[retromlc]

PETE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

[Vermincinerator]

Meths wont touch it even when its wet, both swarfega and carb and brake cleaner will remove it from your hands but if its cured at all you will have to chemically strip it or sand it off.

 

Ian.

Edited December 15, 2010 by Vermincinerator

[Hornet 6]

Tru Oil is a varnish, if you put it on too thick it will never harden, never apply it over an old oil finish either, they interact and never go hard.

Best to polish you varnish finish back with T-Cut and see if that removes it, or full strip and re-finish.

 

Neil.

[Vermincinerator]

Tru-oil is a varnish thats a new one on me

 

Lifted from Birchwood Casey's site:

 

There is no better oil finish! Tru-Oil® Gun Stock Finish has been the professional’s choice for

gunstock finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and other natural oils

dries fast, resists water damage and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age. Excellent as a

sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage.

 

Ian.

[buchangun]

Tru oil is not a varnish and does not go hard , to remove it without taking off the varnish beneath ( and any colour stain on the wood below the varnish) you need to use a non solvent based degreaser such as a citrus baseed hand cleaner.This is not going to be a quick job as the stuff is not designed to come off onece applied iven if applied to a varnished surface!

If you had any areas where the varnish was missing the tru oil will have soaked in and you will have quite some dificulty removing this - if this is the case you would be best to do as some one said earlier and 'bite the bullet' and strip and sand back to clean bare wood and do the oil job properly.

 

best of luck

[poorpeet]

Oh well, I supose it's going to need to be refinished. Not the end of the world.

Thanks for all the advice.

[seeker]

If you choose to do it yourself there are some helpful threads on this site...the kits you can buy all do a good job

The main cost is time .... and the stock will not only look better for the work but your shooting average may improve by at least 38.5% ovenight.

good luck

[Hornet 6]

Tru oil is a varnish in as much as it will go hard, linseed will not.

Tru oil even gets a solid skin over it in the bottle if left long enough.

 

Neil.

[cempa]

there will always be a million answers to every question ?...But if it was my gun i would speak to andy tennant he is a gunmaker who lives very close to you in maidstone kent then you would be able to make up your mind which way to go, and at what cost...good luck