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.243 Fox rifle - Tikka T3 ?


Ballie
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I am about to buy a new .243 rifle to be used for foxing and deer shooting (mostly foxes) I have been looking at the Tikka T3 rifles but as I have been away from shooting for a few years I would like to ask for some advise.

 

my first question is can anyone tell me are these T3's very accurate and what factory ammo seems to work with them in .243 cal

 

Secondly would the heavy barrelled T3 varmint be more accurate than the T3 lite? I like the idea of a lighter rifle but I still want to be able to shoot foxes out to 250 yards if needed, could the T3 light shoot a 2 inch group out at this range?

 

Before anyone says it I realise the major part of the accuracy will be down to me but I am asking are the rifles, in the right hands able to shoot small groups with good factory ammo?

 

Also if anyone knows of a good secondhand .243 Tikka or Sako please let me know, I am also looking for a secondhand NightForce or Leupold scope something like 6.5 x 14 x 50 or 5 x 20 x 50

 

Thanks for any help

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Join the club... i have had my application for .243 granted and i to am looking at the T3's with great interest. Top gun as far as i can see, poor mans sako is what they are, but made in the same factory, so nothing wrong there at all.

As for the heavy barrell it depends how much walking you plan to do, a heavy barrell does exactly what it says on the tin, its heavy, if you are walking a lot dont go for it, the heavy barrells originate from the target shooting side, for making many quick shots, so the lite would best suite you in my opinion. It would be more then capable of shooting a 2" group at 250 yrds if you were capable of it. Tikkas off the shelf are one of the most accurate so im told.

So go for the lite if doing a lot of walking, and as for the scope, go with a fixed magnification not a variable. Also, i wouldnt trust a second hand optic, you dont know what they have been put through, they may be reconditioned or maybe knackered completly. By new when it comes to ptics even if it costs. You would be much better spending £300 on the rifle and £500 on the scope rather then the other way around.

Gibby

Edited by gibby
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Yea, of all the rifles I have looked at and rsearched, the T3 is the one for me. I will be getting it in .222.

 

Walking: lite although I still like the laminated and may still go for it. Not sure yet.

 

Styer are good but I dont think its for me. but that is nothing on quality, just dont fit me well??

 

Gibby, remind me why fixed scope are what a lot of guys prefer??

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well its one less thing to have to worry about, as fixed scopes are more rugged and are made up of fewer moving parts, less to go wrong. I cant see the point of having one for stalking, if your going to have the little movment of the gun when you take your shot, a high powered variable will not make it easier to place the bullet where you want it.

If you know your limits a fixed would be better, it may be easier to estimate distance aswell, however with the variable you can move it up and down depending on the situation you will be shooting in, such as in woodland then walking into a field. It is all preferance really.

Gibby

PS if you have the extra £100-150 go for the laminated, they look really nice in stainless.

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I have a budget of £1,500, which must buy me a rifle, scope and T8

 

I can see why you are saying buy a new scope but why are you suggesting that I buy a fixed power scope? I would be happy with a fixed power but I have not seen a 15 x 50 anywhere! I want a high power as I find it easier to shoot at long range with a high power scope.

 

Still a bite unsure whether to go for T3 lite or T3 varmint!

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If you have a budget of £1500 are you sure you cant stretch for a sako??? 15x is a rather large magnification... but what ever you think you can shoot with.

If your set on the T3 go for the varment then, they do feel a dam sight better built because of the extre weight... but get down the gym if you plan on walking a distance with it, because you will know your carrying it at the end. Ask Henryd, he has a varment i think, see how hes getting on.

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...showtopic=15114

Gibby

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if you want a good high magnification scope you need to spend a good amount of money.

 

the fixed optics are alot cheaper, and in my opinion much much better value.

 

if you got a swarovski or S+B variable (6-24) it would eat up allmost all of your budget just on a scope (albeit a very good one)

 

get a T3 (not varmint unless you intend to spend alot of time shooting longer range or target - thats my opinion anyway -) get a schmidt and bender hungarian 8x56 (30mm), some Tikka mounts, a T8 and screw cutting for your barrel (i dont recall them being done out of the box) and that will be most of your budget gone.

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one of my rifles is a Tikka T3 lite .243,moderator and topped with a Shepherd V1 which is a variable range finding scope.This outfit is used for everything from magpies thru squirrels(on the ground) foxes and of course deer.It is my very experienced opinion that it is the muts nuts in every way.

Before you all start I do not take a shot before back stop and target is identified.

I KNOW MY GROUND

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Stainless barrel = Shine and much glare when working with lamp at night.

 

Dave

a properly blued barrel shines just as much.

 

personally i think the most important thing about not getting spotted is movement, you could be dressed in red and if you didnt move it wouldnt be a problem.

 

just my opinion and experiance.

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Ballie,

 

I shoot a Tikka T3 Hunter in .243, T8 Mod, Sako mounts and Swarovski 2.4-10x42 scope.

 

I have been shooting Federal factory rounds, 70 grn Nosler Ballistic Tip for foxes, and 100grn Soft Point for Deer.

 

Both rounds will shoot 1" groups at 100 yards, and 2.5" groups at 200 yards.

 

Now that I have the brass I am reloading, and hope to improve on these groupings.

 

I have consistantly taken foxes to 200yds, Muntjac and Roe to 140 yards and Red Hinds (Two only) at 90 yards. (I am now getting a 6.5x55 for Reds though.)

 

The outfit is far better than I am, and will outshoot me all day.

 

A pal has the varmint barrelled version, and coupled with the same Mod, same ammo, and a top grade Leupold scope gets no better grouping than my Hunter,

and moans a hell of a lot more after a couple of hours carrying it!

 

I am just in the process of buying a 6.5x55 and I will get another T3 Hunter.

 

Hope this helps.

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There are several reasons things are seen:

shape

shine

shaddow

silhoute

sudden movement

smell

etc

 

Stainless barrel = Shine and much glare when working with lamp at night.

 

Dave

It don't seem to bother the foxes that i shoot. And i shoot a few!!!!

 

:lol::lol:

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Thanks Bowning,

 

My main concern was would the vermint shoot better than the lite but if you are telling me you can shoot as well with your lite as your friend can with his varmint then I think I will go for the lite. I won't be doing a lot of carrying but I really don't like very heavy guns I used to shoot a Rem PSS Police .243 and even with the barrel shortened to 20 inches it weighed a ton (with a T8) which I just think is unnecessary most foxes can be shoot at 150 yards so if a T3 lite can shoot well at this range then I think that will do me.

 

I want Stainless but now I have to choose between laminate and synthetic

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The concept of a stainless barrel is good if it is not shiney but people spend hundreds on real tree for them selves then have a big silver coloured barrel :lol::lol:

 

Phosphating on a barrel will stop it from reflecting light as will parkerisation to some degree as would a heat proof black paint. Some even go the whole hogg and scrim their shooters up.

 

I agree with you hole heartedly about movement dunga. A few weeks ago I was sat in a wood waiting for a deer to saunter along. Two of my m8s were coming in from the other side of the wood they knew whare I was going to be give or take 50m and I knew whare they were coming from before the safty sermon starts.

 

I was sat infront of a stump wearing black boots yellow socks green breeks and jacket and a green hat they were within 25m of me and I opend my hand deliberately to catch their atention and they noticed me instantly with that tiny movement

 

Had I had a bright and shiney barrel I am sure with its straight lines (Shape) and bright shiney surface (Stainless steel) they would have seen me much sooner.

 

I think in some cases people go for stainless because it looks cool rather than the practicalities of it. If it was for practicalities they would have the surface treated to eliminate the shine.

 

It is in some ways like fishing loures; some are made to catch fish and most are made to catch fishermen :D:lol: .

 

Dave

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Ballie when I was first thinking of a full bore I though heavy barrel. Go back over the month and you will find post on the debate.

 

I am now fully content I will not be getting a heavy barrel. Two things have brought me to that conclusion.

 

1. Talking to guys who have more experience than me: both on this forum and guys that shoot. My nearest dealer had a heavy and changed it to a Styer light barrel?? That says a lot to me.

 

2. Since getting to a range where there is everything from black power rifles, hunting through to modern tactical guns. Watching, listening to the experienced and shooting some of these guns has helped me make up my mind about what I want.

 

You soon get to know someone who know what they are about. All of these guys, are never in a hurry to blast lead down the range. Each detail is about 20 mins and most of the guys put about 5 rounds out in that time. The T3 lite in 6.5x55 seem to be as tight as the 308 tacticals or any heavy barrel. Like someone else said, the kit will out perform the shooter any day.

 

Yes some guys could do with fully automatics the way they shoot but that because the watch to many American movies. You want to hunt and there is a difference.

 

I think some of these guys have given you great tips.

 

My problem is laminated or syn :/ I am a carpenter by trade and love the laminated stocks, but the guys who are saying synthetic are right too, it is lighter.

 

Important point: it is only the stock that is lighter, the actions are the same in the Hunter. lammy and lite.

 

One question I haven't had resolved yet. With all the trimmings; T8, bipod, strap, scope does it not make the T3 lite very of balance, front heavy and will that not effect shooting it?:D?:lol:?:lol:?:lol:?:lol:?:lol:?:lol:?:lol:????? :lol:

 

Good luck M8 Your budget is the same as mine maybe £1600, you will get some toy for that :lol:

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get a T3 (not varmint unless you intend to spend alot of time shooting longer range or target - thats my opinion anyway -) get a schmidt and bender hungarian 8x56 (30mm), some Tikka mounts, a T8 and screw cutting for your barrel (i dont recall them being done out of the box) and that will be most of your budget gone.

All of what Nick has said here is exactly what i would do. :lol:

It would be my set up thats for sure. :lol:

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Two of my m8s were coming in from the other side of the wood they knew whare I was going to be give or take 50m and I knew whare they were coming from before the safty sermon starts.

But did you know where the bullet was going AFTER it had passed through the deer ? :rolleyes:

 

The barrel on my "foxing rifle" is stainless for one reason..... ease of cleaning. I tend to end up up to my neck in mud and **** trying to get a safe shot at a fox. i don't always have time to clean my rifle when i get home or indeed the next morning. (its got a synthetic stock too :thumbs: ) My deer stalking rifle doesn't have a stainless barrel

 

 

:D;)

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