utectok Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 (edited) I have been told by my class teacher about 5-7m away but to me that seems ok if your beating a line or have a walked up shoot but I do alot of shooting on my own and like my dog to be 15-20m away at times otherwise I'd have to walk miles. What's the wisdom on the grapevine? Cheers Will Edited May 21, 2011 by utectok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col48 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hi my opinion is your dog should only hunt and flush game as far as you can guarantee a one shot kill. ATB Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 So my theory is that at 20m a bird gets up ten more meters to get airborne and safe 30 m shot perfect for 1/4 choke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kermitpwee Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 So my theory is that at 20m a bird gets up ten more meters to get airborne and safe 30 m shot perfect for 1/4 choke? It all depends what you shoot mate. For woodcock its better to have the dog moving out from you, on pheasants you want the dog tight as pheasants can do a runner and even the best trained dog can be difficult to call of the chase. If your dog comes on a pheasant at 20 yards and the pheasant does a runner then the bird will end up been flushed too far out. I personally train my springer to hunt 5 yards from me as I shoot pheasants early in the season, it also means I have to give him very little commands when I am shooting as he is nice and close. The dog will always open up as the season moves on, its better to have a dog tight then loose as they will move out but once they are out it takes an experienced hand to bring them back in! This is all based on you having a good dog with drive, if your dog is not hunting well you might be better letting him out as I have seen them walk to heel if they get to close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col48 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 So my theory is that at 20m a bird gets up ten more meters to get airborne and safe 30 m shot perfect for 1/4 choke? Yes in an ideal world it should be fine. but if the bird runs on or the rabbit runs on and your dog takes after it as it has yet to flush then you can soon be out of range. i don't have a set distance just kinda go with the flow and read my dog. If he picks up on a bit of sent then i slow him down and keep titer control of him. ATB Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 (edited) That's really interesting thanks. . No problem with drive for my dog hunting mad. I'd have to work to keeping her that close though. Edited May 21, 2011 by utectok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kermitpwee Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 (edited) That's really interesting thanks. . No problem with drive for my dog hunting mad. I'd have to work to keeping her that close though. Just one more piece of advice and this is vital. If your bitch is a young dog say less then 4 and you haven't shot much over her then keep her tight. If you can get her to work at 10 feet then keep her there for the first two seasons you shoot over her. If you let a young dog out to soon she will break your heart and you will hate shooting over her. Keep her tight for two years and you will have great shooting for the rest of her days. Get a good spaniel book and get your dog quartering and you will keep her tight, its hard work but the other option is buy a pointing/Setting dog! Regards Peter Edited May 21, 2011 by kermitpwee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Cheers I'll bear that in mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren m Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Just one more piece of advice and this is vital. If your bitch is a young dog say less then 4 and you haven't shot much over her then keep her tight. If you can get her to work at 10 feet then keep her there for the first two seasons you shoot over her. If you let a young dog out to soon she will break your heart and you will hate shooting over her. Keep her tight for two years and you will have great shooting for the rest of her days. Get a good spaniel book and get your dog quartering and you will keep her tight, its hard work but the other option is buy a pointing/Setting dog! Regards Peter peter -- interested to know , what would you recommend for a 2.5 yr old ESS bitch that already hunts too far out??? i would love to get her hunting at 10 to 20 feet if poss ( beating in heavy cover ) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW80 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) How far do you want your dog to hunt is the answer to you're question mate, not trying to be flipant but what you want is different from others if you are comfortable and confident shooting over the dog thats all that matters!! I have a real shoe shiner at the minute who i'm hoping might trial, but my other shooting dog is a bit rangy because i have let him range, and am not too bothered with him not stopping on the flush immediatley but i still know he won't chase! Edited May 22, 2011 by GW80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Or, following on to GW's advice, you could train a spaniel nonslip (in addition to the questing) and then it would go out for a retrieve as far afield (or asea) as necessary but still stay well within range when quartering. With some spaniels you can have it both ways - or should I say with all spaniels you can train them so you can have it both ways. MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta28g Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 I train to keep my spaniel at around 10 yards,, knowing that on live stuff he may go out to 15 yards. Which in my view is abot the max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Beretta that's interesting mines about that too although could be steadier!! What is nonslip cracker?? Great pics tho!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kermitpwee Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 peter -- interested to know , what would you recommend for a 2.5 yr old ESS bitch that already hunts too far out??? i would love to get her hunting at 10 to 20 feet if poss ( beating in heavy cover ) cheers How far is Far out? Spaniels can be tightened, if its a dog your looking at buying then see what its like on the recall, if its not on a recall bring it to an area where there is game preferably ground game and let it flush. Assuming the dog has no recall and is not steady to flush it will chase the rabbit. If the dog dosen't return to the owner inside 5 minutes then you really would want to know what you are doing to tighten it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyb Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 I'd be more concerned with being able to stop and turn him, that way I could work him at any length that suits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 (edited) You say your dogs a mad keen hunter, thats why you have been told to work it close- it will slip further in time do as the trainer says they probebly have way more experiance than those on this site and have the benefit of meeting you and your dog Edited May 28, 2011 by kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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