miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Hi all after some sound advice Purchased a new batch of ammo recently so rezeroed, set myself up for 50 metres and tried to settle down for a few steady shots, This is where the problem arises, whilst looking through the sight to zero i have a pulsing feeling in my right cheek which causes the reticule to move up and down the intended zeroing point, to add at this point I was using a Harris bipod. I dont have this problem with any of the military rifles I fire and everything i do is correct as i have spent numerous years in the forces teaching/mentoring others to shoot. I am wondering if I need some form of soft pad on the stock as long as it doesnt change or alter my eye relief. Its a little frustrating as I want to zero at greater distances but cant get a steady group. Has anyone else had this in the past or does anyone have any other ideas to cure this Thanks Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camokid Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 what mags the scope? and i use a small sand bag at the but of the gun with the pod when i zero and it keeps the gun spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 If you can't use a sandbag under the butt try using your fist, it will reduce the effect or pulse and breathing on the rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 what mags the scope? and i use a small sand bag at the but of the gun with the pod when i zero and it keeps the gun spot on its a 3-9x 40 and i zero it on x6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 If you can't use a sandbag under the butt try using your fist, it will reduce the effect or pulse and breathing on the rifle. I hold the sling swivel at the butt also its the pulsing in my cheek that is the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magman Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Hi all after some sound advice Purchased a new batch of ammo recently so rezeroed, set myself up for 50 metres and tried to settle down for a few steady shots, This is where the problem arises, whilst looking through the sight to zero i have a pulsing feeling in my right cheek which causes the reticule to move up and down the intended zeroing point, to add at this point I was using a Harris bipod. I dont have this problem with any of the military rifles I fire and everything i do is correct as i have spent numerous years in the forces teaching/mentoring others to shoot. I am wondering if I need some form of soft pad on the stock as long as it doesnt change or alter my eye relief. Its a little frustrating as I want to zero at greater distances but cant get a steady group. Has anyone else had this in the past or does anyone have any other ideas to cure this Thanks Shane Calm down fella you can do it on the range so you can do it in the field Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camokid Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 im a bit of a fat *** and buy the time i have walked 100 yards and back my puls puts me of center target so i just chill for five and then crack on. also i would in my case get a bigger mag scope as my eyes struggle at 100 with low mag to hold on target im only 27 im falling apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I hold the sling swivel at the butt also its the pulsing in my cheek that is the problem Is the scope in the correct position ? I mean to say can you get the correct eye releif without straining your neck ? If you don't normally shoot from this position perhaps that's the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 the sight is in a position which is comfortable for me to shoot i have the same thing with the 22lr but i dont shoot it as far as i can for the hmr Shane keep the ideas coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ550Kevlar Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I would suggest bench rest and clamp the rifle into a workmate affair, it will take the movement totally out of the rifle and let you zero it which is that problem dealt with, next the cheek thing gel tech pads are your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 sounds to me like you have too firm a cheek contact. Mounting the scope a tad higher helps if your pressing your face down too hard onto the stock to get the correct eye alighnment. Heart rate can be controled through good breathing and the mind or shot through ie timing the shot between beats with some practice, yet at 6X i feel your problem is far more likely to be in the former cheek contact if you are in good health and have plenty trigger time in shooting supported from a bipod. Shooting prone from a pod also can create this issue of cheek weld raising the left knee up can get a better more errect head it also prevents over pressure on the diaphram which stunts breathing control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 sounds to me like you have too firm a cheek contact. Mounting the scope a tad higher helps if your pressing your face down too hard onto the stock to get the correct eye alighnment. Heart rate can be controled through good breathing and the mind or shot through ie timing the shot between beats with some practice, yet at 6X i feel your problem is far more likely to be in the former cheek contact if you are in good health and have plenty trigger time in shooting supported from a bipod. Shooting prone from a pod also can create this issue of cheek weld raising the left knee up can get a better more errect head it also prevents over pressure on the diaphram which stunts breathing control I have even thought about taking a surform to the stock to remove some of the wood not sure if this would do it seems a bit extreme Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroku4399 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) I would suggest bench rest and clamp the rifle into a workmate affair, it will take the movement totally out of the rifle and let you zero it which is that problem dealt with, next the cheek thing gel tech pads are your friend. Hi Andrew been a while I hear what your saying regarding the clamping in a workmate would take the cheek throbbing out the equation but then it wont be zeroed to me, thats why every individual has to zero their own rifle Shane Edited July 21, 2011 by miroku4399 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I have even thought about taking a surform to the stock to remove some of the wood not sure if this would do it seems a bit extreme Shane Why not just move the scope into slightly higher mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Hi Andrew been a while I hear what your saying regarding the clamping in a workmate would take the cheek throbbing out the equation but then it wont be zeroed to me, thats why every individual has to zero their own rifle Shane Oh gosh, dont tell them that it will run for 100 posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ550Kevlar Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Just a thought as i Zeroed my HMR that way before i had studs fitted to mount a bipod etc or had shooting bags, i should have expanded a bit and explained i was able to clamp it in place to mimic the way i hold the rifle with my hands mounted onto my shoulder and position my cheek on the stock but took the hand and face movement out of the equation. Out of interest do you have paralax adjustment on your scope? Parallax compensation Parallax problems result from the image from the objective not being coincident with the reticle. If the image is not coplanar with the reticle (that is the image of the objective is either in front of or behind the reticle), then putting your eye at different points behind the ocular causes the reticle crosshairs to appear to be at different points on the target. This optical effect causes parallax induced aiming errors that can make a telescopic sight user miss a small target at a distance for which the telescopic sight was not parallax adjusted. To eliminate parallax induced aiming errors, telescopic sights can be equipped with a parallax compensation mechanism which basically consists of a movable optical element that enables the optical system to project the picture of objects at varying distances and the reticle crosshairs pictures together in exactly the same optical plane. There are two main methods to achieve this. By making the objective lens of the telescopic sight adjustable so the telescopic sight can compensate parallax errors. These models are often called AO or A/O models, for adjustable objective. By making an internal lens in the internal optical groups mounted somewhere in front of the reticle plane adjustable so the telescopic sight can compensate parallax errors. This method is technically more complicated to build, but generally more liked by parallax adjustable telescopic sight users—unlike AO models, which are read from the top, the sidewheel's setting can be read with minimal movement of the head. These models are often called side focus or sidewheel models.[11] Most telescopic sights lack parallax compensation because they can perform very acceptably without this refinement. Telescopic sights manufacturers adjust these scopes at a distance that best suits their intended usage. Typical standard factory parallax adjustment distances for hunting telescopic sights are 100 yd or 100 m to make them suited for hunting shots that rarely exceed 300 yd/m. Some target and military style telescopic sights without parallax compensation may be adjusted to be parallax free at ranges up to 300 yd/m to make them better suited for aiming at longer ranges.[12] Scopes for rimfires, shotguns, and muzzleloaders will have shorter parallax settings, commonly 50 yd/m[13] for rimfire scopes and 100 yd/m[14] for shotguns and muzzleloaders. Scopes for airguns are very often found with adjustable parallax, usually in the form of an adjustable objective, or AO. These may adjust down as far as 3 yards (2.74 m).[15] The reason why scopes intended for short range use are often equipped with parallax compensation is that at short range (and at high magnification) parallax errors become more noticeable. A typical scope objective has a focal length of 100 mm. An optical ideal 10× scope in this example has been perfectly parallax corrected at 1000 m and functions flawlessly at that distance. If the same scope is used at 100 m the target-picture would be projected (1000 m / 100 m) / 100 mm = 0.1 mm behind the reticle plane. At 10× magnification the error would be 10 × 0.1 mm = 1 mm at the ocular. If the same scope was used at 10 m the target-picture would be (1000 m / 10 m) / 100 mm = 1 mm projected behind the reticle plane. When magnified ten times the error would be 10 mm at the ocular. Copyright to Wikipedia and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colster Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I'd go with Kent's advice, it's likely to be a very specific part of your cheek that is causing the problem so a slight adjustment to your head position should reduce or remove the issue. Possibly even moving the scope forward or backwards could help too, if the scope doesn't have particularly fussy eye relief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy. Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 If you can't use a sandbag under the butt try using your fist, it will reduce the effect or pulse and breathing on the rifle. Of you can use the ammo box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I don't know if this will help but it is something that I was taught not so long ago which has helped improve my accuracy with my .243 (And my 17HMR when in the prone position) even though it may not even be related to the problem that is effecting you: When shooting on the prone position shoulder the rifle as you normally would by tucking it squarely into your right shoulder. (This applies to right handed shooters - Obviously you reverse it if you are left handed). Then, instead of using your left hand to grip and steady the for-end bring your left hand down under the butt and tuck your left thumb into your right arm pit. Wrap the fingers of your left hand around the top of the muscles of your right arm with both your left and right elbows resting on the ground. You should then find that as you tighten the grip of your left hand the back of your left hand will lock against the right hand side of the butt of your rifle locking it into place against your shoulder. This gives you more controll of your rifle and ensures that you are shouldering your rifle consistently in exactly the same position in your shoulder for every shot. Form that position any fine adjustments in your aim can be made by simply squeezing your right arm muscle with the fingers of your left hand. When you are about to fire rather than just squeezing the trigger start the squeezing movement from the little finger of your trigger hand and then work the pressure up through your fingers in turn to your trigger finger - This gives a much more steady pressure on the trigger finger and saves the possibility of "snatching" the shot. By using this method I have found find that it results in more accurate/consistent shooting as what you are basically doing is using both of your elbows to form a "rear bipod" and making your rifle much more stable! I fully realise that different people have different ways of doing things and some might find this awkward to start off with but if I am helping/coaching a "new commer" to rifle shooting this is how I teach them to shoot more accurately - It has certainly made a difference to my rifle shooting accuracy so I hope it might help you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 When you are about to fire rather than just squeezing the trigger start the squeezing movement from the little finger of your trigger hand and then work the pressure up through your fingers in turn to your trigger finger - This gives a much more steady pressure on the trigger finger and saves the possibility of "snatching" the shot. I've never heard that before, next time out I'll give it a go, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) I've never heard that before, next time out I'll give it a go, thanks I'm hoping that the weather will hold enough for me to go out this morning and try some home laods with my .243 to test for consistency. I will try to make a short video as it will be more easily understood to watch it than just with a written explanation! I will say that it has made an improvement with my shooting but what works for some might not work for others! Edit: The weather held out for me so here is a thread with the video that might explain things better than my wording: http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/174252-improving-accuracy-off-the-bipod/ Edited July 22, 2011 by Frenchieboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kenny Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Its a little frustrating as I want to zero but cant get a steady group. Has anyone else had this in the past or does anyone have any other ideas to cure this Thanks Shane Nothing new their Jim Just go and sign out your .50 and light the hole field up Stop Gripping the wpn so hard Kenny XXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixhills 69 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I found when you hold the rear sling at the Butt when you go to squeeze the trigger you antisepaite the shot and at that time tighten the grip on the sling slightly (but enough)to move point of aim. I always had this problem and only whilst at a range and i had a friend spotting it came to light like many say try using a rear pod or sand bag under the Butt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I found when you hold the rear sling at the Butt when you go to squeeze the trigger you antisepaite the shot and at that time tighten the grip on the sling slightly (but enough)to move point of aim. I always had this problem and only whilst at a range and i had a friend spotting it came to light like many say try using a rear pod or sand bag under the Butt. I believe that the method that I use has less tendency to pull the shot as opposed to gripping the sling as you describe. I used to grip the sling as you described but now I find the method that I use holds the accuracy a little better! It might be well worth your while trying it for a few shots to see if there is any improvement in your rifle shooting off the bipod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixhills 69 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I believe that the method that I use has less tendency to pull the shot as opposed to gripping the sling as you describe. I used to grip the sling as you described but now I find the method that I use holds the accuracy a little better! It might be well worth your while trying it for a few shots to see if there is any improvement in your rifle shooting off the bipod! What Frenchieboy Say's is correct This was the method i was show at the range when my mate noticed i was gipping the rear sling, it takes a bit of getting used to but makes a big difference and as you say you are use your elbows as a rear pod and the bye controling your breathing helps make that more accurate give it a go what have you to loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.