motty Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) I've just started reloading with steel and i'm having real trouble. I'm following the rsi recipes and have the correct cases in 3 1/2" and 3". I've loaded some 1 1/2 oz T or BB loads and some 32 gm 4's. I've loaded a few that look like they are as good as factory loads but some have turned out really ugly, with poor crimps. Now, i've weighed all the shot/powder as per the recipes, so the cases shouldn't be overfilled. I'm using a mec steelmaster and have tried to tweak the cam height and the crimp punch depth, but it all seems so hit & miss - no uniformity. Can anyone please help? What am i doing wrong? Edited August 18, 2011 by motty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fruitloop Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 are thay new hulls or used if used it might be the plastic is no good or there might be a diference in colum hight?? are they all the same hulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 just because the recipe is published doesnt mean the load fits together nicely. if its a 12gauge, you should have 1/2" crimping length left. if not put more pressure on wad seating. i bet there is alot of powder their isnt there? pre crimp that very well, so that there is 3mm hole, keep the loading arm down so that it stresses the new plastic (if new shells) place the shell into the final crimp, crimp slowly, and hold it. measure the depth of crimp or compare it to a factory type. if its too shallow, adjust the crimp depth by turning the depth adjustment clockwise. every hole turn should give 0.030" or 0.060" i forgot. what i did was, have an experimental hull that would get discarded... i`d open the final crimp all the way, and change it at increments, untill i had the nice crimp i was after. i then mesured the crimp settings, ie screw height of the depth adjustment. i can then strip my loader and return it to crimping great, without batting an eyelid. ps, getting the precrimp right is important too ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/media/reloading.pdf HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ste12b Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/media/reloading.pdf HTH nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 are thay new hulls or used if used it might be the plastic is no good or there might be a diference in colum hight?? are they all the same hulls They are once fired shells. All 3 1/2" are remington. The 3" are rem and federal. They are all the same type - not a bag of allsorts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 just because the recipe is published doesnt mean the load fits together nicely. if its a 12gauge, you should have 1/2" crimping length left. if not put more pressure on wad seating. i bet there is alot of powder their isnt there? pre crimp that very well, so that there is 3mm hole, keep the loading arm down so that it stresses the new plastic (if new shells) place the shell into the final crimp, crimp slowly, and hold it. measure the depth of crimp or compare it to a factory type. if its too shallow, adjust the crimp depth by turning the depth adjustment clockwise. every hole turn should give 0.030" or 0.060" i forgot. what i did was, have an experimental hull that would get discarded... i`d open the final crimp all the way, and change it at increments, untill i had the nice crimp i was after. i then mesured the crimp settings, ie screw height of the depth adjustment. i can then strip my loader and return it to crimping great, without batting an eyelid. ps, getting the precrimp right is important too ! Some of the recipes recommend filler wads, depending on what size shot is used so they should fit really. As i said, one or two look spot on and weigh the same as the rubbish ones, so i don't think i'm making a mistake in the weighing or anything. The loads so far have been 35, 40 and 41 grains of steel.Maybe i got lucky with the good ones. Cheers for the advice. I'll let you know how i get on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyotemaster Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 If you do not have the correct column height with steel it is a no go as far as a nice crimp. If the shot column is too low add a felt spacer under the shot column---too high remove a little shot. You will soon get a feel for what you need in terms of shot column height. What cookoff said is true your precrimp needs to almost close the top of the shell. Be advised when you start adjusting one station it could affect the others as well. There is no take-up in the steel wad as there is in lead wads to allow for any differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/media/reloading.pdf HTH Just read through this. I reckon it will help. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigeon jim Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Make sure your precrimp is finding the original crimp folds or your crimps will be ugly, Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK fowler Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Make sure your precrimp is finding the original crimp folds or your crimps will be ugly, Jim. this would be the first place Id look also,you should get good crimps on once fired cases the very large shot like Ts can sometimes be problematic if there a bit high in the wad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floating Chamber Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Sometimes even the perfect powder/wad/shot height can result in a dipped crimp as the shot 'nestles'. When loading steel, manually, I ALWAYS place a .719" diameter Kraft paper disc atop the shot. Perfect crimps each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thanks for all the help, lads, my crimps are looking better already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyotemaster Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 A little tip I picked up while loading the big steel(BB-BBB or T) is to use a discarded plastic primer tray( the one the primers came in) and look at the number per load chart, most manuals have one, and wax or tape off the number you DON'T NEED I have my shot usually T's for the 10 ga. in a plastic coffee container and just dip an rattle off the doubles I load 88 pellets in the 10, wax off 12 and you don't need to weigh each charge(weigh the first if it makes you feel safer) Some shot sizes you can 1/2 the number 3's come to mind as you will get 2/hole. I have used this for years and NO problems. Just pay attention to what you are about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigger Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Here's the thread i started buddy i had the same problems with the steel master it was a right bitch to get them correct most of my problems i think were they was new shells but as yo have once fired should be a little easier i would have thought http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/138522-mec-crimp-help/page__p__1183450__hl__crimp__fromsearch__1#entry1183450 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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