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Shooting hush power accurately


spready
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As you may have read, ive got myself a hushpower 20g O/U , just wondered what tips you guys who own them have to shoot them accurately?

 

Ive been shooting it for a few weeks now , with mixed results, seem to hit birds that really surprise me and seem really good shots, but then miss really easy shots .Been using the gamebore traditional game in both 5 and 6 and find them as quiet ( 5's slightly louder) as the 30g 5s subsonics, but saying that ive brought down a few crows and good distances with the subs and again missed easy ones , so it has to be down to me.

 

Ive shot normal shotguns for a while and dont seem to have problems like this. searched the forum and found all hushpowers seem to fire low ( which i found with my 12g mossberg) but thought with the O/U, that problem was sort of fixed

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

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Just raise your head so you're looking over the back end of the barrel by about 10mm then get a large piece of card with a bird sized mark in the middle and shot it to verify you are shooting to point of aim. Worst thing is to bury your head into the stock so you are looking straight down the barrel.

 

I also changed that stupid oversized front bead for a button head screw which also helps lower the point of aim to where it should be :good:

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Thanks for the replys, I haven't had chance to Patten it, what do you recommend th best way to do that?

 

I will give it a go with shooting more head up as suggested . Just out of interest , can you buy a lower bead for the gun? Also I'm imagining that the fitted one just unscrews?... Cheers once again guys :-)

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Guest cookoff013

pattern the thing, to see where the shot is actually going, then you can adjust your poi / poa relationship.

 

i have seen a wood wedge glued to the top of the silencer.

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Just out of interest, if the gun is shooting low, would a comb raiser on the stock help bring the sight line up and help?

 

I found that sitting my cheek in the natural position on the stock automatically lifts the eye to the correct position above the breech.

 

Persevere, it's well worth it when you do and start dusting your targets.

Edited by sitsinhedges
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The 20 O/U does shoot low and I would suggest removing the front bead altogether, it makes you want to aim it like an ordinary O/U and tuck your head down to the stock. I would then fix a comb raiser on the stock so that you can't dip your head. Its the only way I found I cold shoot consistently with one. The patterning helps a lot so you know you stand a chance of being on target.

I would also stick to one type of shell, sub or not that's up to you. The increase in speed will make a difference to the lead required and changing just makes it harder to stay on target.

 

 

GH

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The 20 O/U does shoot low and I would suggest removing the front bead altogether, it makes you want to aim it like an ordinary O/U and tuck your head down to the stock. I would then fix a comb raiser on the stock so that you can't dip your head. Its the only way I found I cold shoot consistently with one. The patterning helps a lot so you know you stand a chance of being on target.

I would also stick to one type of shell, sub or not that's up to you. The increase in speed will make a difference to the lead required and changing just makes it harder to stay on target.

 

 

GH

 

I believe that if you remove the front bead altogether the monoblock baffle could spin with disasterous results because it is an O/U. The other thing you can do is get a grub screw and let it just protrude to give you an aiming mark. The thread on mine was an awkward M3.5 so I dropped an M3 buttonhead screw in with some threadlock to fix it. It's ideal.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/m3-4-5-6-8mm-socket-button-dome-head-black-10-9-high-tensile-steel-bolts-screws-/251302645028?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item3a82ce0d24#ht_1005wt_934

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