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Making a walnut shotgun stock. A restoration project.


demonwolf444
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Thanks for the kind words guys. Nothing like an english gun, this one just points very nicely for me and comes up to my shoulder so quickly.

 

Updating again.

The stock as you had last seen it was sanded to 400 grit. The napier kit started at 1200, so i have been sanding.

 

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I went from 400 - 600 - 1000 grit.

 

At 1000

 

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At 1200

 

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Raising any hairs as instructed using water and a hair dryer

 

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Then nocking back with wire wool, you could tell it was picking up little bits, but not very much.

 

Then on to liberally filling the grain as per the instructions in the kit.

 

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Will take this back with wire wool, then maybe do another pass just to make sure it is all good.

 

Any idea's tips, or advice gratefully received.

 

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Rubbing back the grain filler with wire wool. Could have done with a little more filler however the filler in the kit ran out. If anyone else uses this kit i would advise buying more grain filler. The kit recons there is enough for five gunstocks in one kit; maybe i used it wrong?

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Directly after the first coat. Its coming out really nice!

 

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These are after the second coat. If anything the stock is a little light in comparison to the forend. Which it probably always will be; im not a huge fan of staining wood. Dont get me wrong it can be done well and i have done it on air rifles where it looks really nice, but there is a nice bit of contrast in this grain and i think a stain might just take some of that away.

 

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I think i shall probably do maybe between 7 and 14 coats of finish, in doing this the oil may just darken the wood a little and also make sure it is fully finished and protected. Next to come will be the chequering!

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Okay- Chequering. Certainly not the easiest thing in the world to do, but also not the hardest considering ill post some pictures up today of my old unloved air rifles which i have taken the tool to in order to practice laying out patterns on, and practice cutting on. About ready at this point to start on the stock its self; just waiting for the finish to harden up a little.

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What a great post this is, fascinating!! Well done to you demonwolf for taking it on. A hundred others would have declined this job, probably me included. Think it will look stunning and you will be as proud as punch, deservedly so! Nice piece of walnut too. You were lucky with that. You mentioned the woodworm but I can't see it in your piccies. Is it obvious?

 

Gus

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Not obvious at all; its three little 0.5mm holes which have been filled and haven't opened again. I want to get a syringe and needle and inject some woodworm stuff into the holes but was having trouble getting hold of a syringe and needle. ( didn't know where to start tbh! ) Yes i was very lucky with the walnut, when i was offered the gun, i remembered the walnut we had had sat for a year or so, and it did seem like a bit of a coincidence. I was very tempted to turn it down, i didn't want to take the project on and not do it justice; anyway i have done as best as i can and this whole project was a test of my skills and it has been so satisfying, anyway will upload a chequering update tomorrow, which i think people will be very excited about as i am. I can't wait to put some carts through it - Nervous though, lets hope it stands up to the test.

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i needed a couple of syringes to make a bleet kit for my mountain bikes brakes a couple of years ago, i went into my local chemist and asked them and thet didnt half give me a funny look... they asked what type and i said i dont know, explained what i wanted the mfor and they gave me an even funnier look :)

 

had a similar thing a few months ago, i had my side by side barrels reblacked and the filling between the barrels on the muzzle came out so i went into a local motor factors and asked for liquid metal type stuff.. obviosuly they could see i didnt have a clue what i was looking at as they had so many different ones so the guy asked me what it was far.. REALLY shocked him when i told him.. dont think he liked guns by the look on his face :lol:

 

demonwolf, i cant wait for the update tomorrow.. im fascinated by this thread.. not because your showing us step by step but because its your first and your learning as you go... cant wait to see the finished gun and youll deserve it more than anyone :good:

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After rubbing back with some extremely fine wire wool;

 

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And lining the bottom half of the case. It still needs fitting out, but i covered an old cigar box with the material and fixed it in place, for a little compartment, and added a brass handle.

 

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Then took a break and had an excellent day pigeon decoying.

 

Nearly too this gun, but i have promised my self not to shoot it until i have finished it completely,

 

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Then i came home to find the chequering tools had been sent and raced to make a handle for them to sit in. Its just some mild steel roughly ground down with a 1.5mm hole in it.

 

I was so eager to start chequering after a bit thought i tried some on my BSA mercury, i didn't use the chequering gauge correctly and ended up cocking up a bit. They are more pointed squares than diamonds and then lines are not great. But it was a start.

 

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Then after a lot of midway video's i tried again on a **** air rifle ( twas my first air rifle ) and now using the gauge properly it turned out much better, and i got the hang of using the gauge and tools much better. Generally one of the things i learned was to make sure your lines are very clearly defined before you deepen them to ensure you don't slip out of the line later.

 

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With this all in mind i tentatively laid out the pattern on the shotgun stock. I decided on two panels on either side as apposed to a wrap around pattern, to minimize the risk of cocking up.

 

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Cutting the border lines and then the master lines, this must be done "free hand " with a single line cutter. The quality of the master lines affects the whole pattern as you use the master lines to lay out the subsequent lines.

 

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This is what i mean as apposed to one panel that meets over the top and the bottom of the stock, two separate panels that do not meet.

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So with the master lines cut you use that as a guide for the layout cutter. Here the first line has been done.

 

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Then you stick at it and fill in the entire outline with lines cut from the master lines.

 

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The process is then repeated in the other direction creating the crossing lines.

 

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Then you slowly bring all the lines to full depth.

 

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Once this is done a tooth brush helps to get all the dust and crud out of the chequering, which should be nice and sharp. Then i used a clean brush to brush a thinned quantity of finish into the chequering. Im bloody pleased with it.

 

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