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Beretta 301


tonker
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Hi, Guys

Just to say a big thank you for all your tips. I took everything apart and checked it, ports were clean could only get a little carbon out of them(and I mean specks) Nothing else jumped out at me that looked wrong, so gave it another clean although it already was. The only thing I added this time was a bit of Legia spray to everything and then a wipe off, Just been down the farm now and it recycled fine :yahoo:

The reason I hadn't been oiling it was that I thought it would gum up, or that's what I was told way back.

I'm very surprised it's taken this long to go wrong. Anyway many thanks to you all again.

Glad you seem to have it sorted. Oil wise, I've always ran my semis on synthetic engine oil, not dripping in the stuff just moist.

As an aside how's your health tonker?

 

Regards Remmyman

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Remmyman, thanks for asking, Don't know really? in for blood tests Mon and ECG Tuesday, and back to Doc's Fri for review.

They think that i may have had a bit of a fit, Hope their wrong though cos that'll mean no driving for a year, and don't know how that will affect my SGC and FAC bit of a ****** really.

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I lub my 301 and semi auto 22lr with a graphite penetrating fluid and where as mineral oils, no matter how fine (or expensive), do the job reasonable well, the graphite does it far better IMHO and leads to less gumming up and longer periods between strip down and clean.

 

Some of the latest PTFE lubricants look even better from a time between strip down point of view and most probably I'll change over to using them instead of the graphite at the next strip and clean.

 

Incidentally, I find that automotive brake cleaner is fantastic for getting the the ports and hard to reach chambers clear of any difficult to remove deposits but just watch out if you get it on your hands as it can easily cause frostbite if you get carried away with using the stuff!

 

It's also good for cleaning the pivot points on old clocks that have given up the ghost and after the slightest touch of clock oil on the now clean pivots, most clocks should (if undamaged) start running like clockwork for a few more years. Beats putting a clock mechanism in a pan of boiling water which is what my old man used to do to clean out the accumulations of old oil and dirt!

Edited by rogcal
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