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I shot this morning with a combination of Fiocchi Top 1s - 9s and RC4 Red Rockets 7 1/2s. One cost less than £160 per 1000, the other - in excess of £280 per 1000. They were shot through 3/8 and 3/8 choke - regulated by Nigel Teague.

 

Could I tell the difference - absolutely not. The RC shells look the business and killed clean enough, but so did the Fiocchis. Any missed clays were done equally well with either. Nothing was over 35 yards, so the RC4s might have come into their own at greater distance.

 

I will be sticking to Fiocchi. when the RC4s run out.

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Guest cookoff013

those of you that have the argument about types of shells and all that they all do the same....

 

why dont you use a 9g #6 .410 for all sporting ? its a shell, goes bang and hits stuff.

 

 

all shells are made to set criteria, the club stuff, just goes bang, the real ecconomy stuff just goes bang cheap enough. english sporters are only available in one shotsize, to make one production run. same as pigeon shells #6 only.

 

where as pro one / worldcup / soverign etc... have a different market. some are for the olympic 24g limit. now there is nothing wrong with either. but economy loads are just that. these fast shells perform well in winter. i bet the enonomy loads dont perform as well.

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Guest cookoff013

actually heat plays a big part of shell performance.

when proofed a single shell is acclimatised to a set / warm temp and fired. this usually is the one that has the highest reading for pressure.

 

although i`ve never excessively warmed a shell before firing, that initial temp can make a difference. i`ve the data to proove it with good shells, **** shells and those that failed at proof.

 

cook.

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Do the power blues kick like the express English Sporters? I find those kick far too much.

 

I don't find they kick at all, I'm using 28g 7.5's and they seem quite smooth. Then again now my gun fits, even 36g BB's don't bother me.

I haven't tried English sporters, so cant compare for you.

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actually heat plays a big part of shell performance.

when proofed a single shell is acclimatised to a set / warm temp and fired. this usually is the one that has the highest reading for pressure.

 

although i`ve never excessively warmed a shell before firing, that initial temp can make a difference. i`ve the data to proove it with good shells, **** shells and those that failed at proof.

 

cook.

 

This may be in my head, but when I first bought my current batch of power blues, I shot a slab straight away.

They had been stored in a cold container outdoors.

I wasn't impressed really, dirty barrels and didn't seem as good as the Express HV's.

Once they had been in my warm utility room for a week, they seemed completely different cartridges!

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I am well aware that shell temperature affects performance, but didn't realise it was restricted to cheapies. :whistling::whistling: :whistling:

 

Tightchoke - first thing on my Christmas list. As a temporary measure, I thought I might dump a slab of shells in the foot-well, turn the heater up full on my drive to the ground. :lol::lol: :lol:

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Guest cookoff013

I am well aware that shell temperature affects performance, but didn't realise it was restricted to cheapies. :whistling::whistling: :whistling:

 

Tightchoke - first thing on my Christmas list. As a temporary measure, I thought I might dump a slab of shells in the foot-well, turn the heater up full on my drive to the ground. :lol::lol: :lol:

 

Temp affects all shells. If you had a 1oz a1 load at 6000psi its pressure is bad and temp increase will help. At normal temp the speed and pressure variation is all over the shop.the cold shells worsen this. Next take a 10000psi load with a fast powder should have little variation. Only slightly higher when heat is applied.

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Temp affects all shells. If you had a 1oz a1 load at 6000psi its pressure is bad and temp increase will help. At normal temp the speed and pressure variation is all over the shop.the cold shells worsen this. Next take a 10000psi load with a fast powder should have little variation. Only slightly higher when heat is applied.

Do you keep a heat pack in your cartridge bag? :-)

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I am well aware that shell temperature affects performance, but didn't realise it was restricted to cheapies. :whistling::whistling: :whistling:

 

Tightchoke - first thing on my Christmas list. As a temporary measure, I thought I might dump a slab of shells in the foot-well, turn the heater up full on my drive to the ground. :lol::lol: :lol:

 

Good on ya Gordon, I feel some people are blind to our smilies!! :yes:

 

 

Many years ago, Geoff Dales the then owner of Gamebore used to tell everyone that was lucky enough to have a look round his factory and then be taken out to shoot some of his shells. That a cartridge belt inside a jacket would keep the shells warm enough to gain even performance if the coat was taken off just before a drive was started. The firm had experimented with shells kept in a fridge and also in a freezer and had noted the results. I will never take shells straight from the garage in winter, preferring to bring them in to the house the night before so that they gain some temperature.

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I've changed to Fiocchi F-Blacks for the last 1000 I bought for the claimed consistency of the shell at at cold and warm temps. The Hull Superfasts I was using prior to these were fine up to me buying some from a new club building and suffering some differences in performance that was very noticeable. After a few weeks in a warm dry house they returned to the norm. But decided to try the F-Blacks after a mate shooting them and getting good results at distance with them.

 

If I get no more primer failures I will keep shooting them as they are only £24.00 more a 1000 so no biggie for a better regulated cartridge with a extra 1gram of shot.

 

In the past I have tried all the top makes and some were better than others but not to me for the extra cost over the Hull Superfasts of the same speeds.

 

 

Figgy

Edited by figgy
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