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200tdi lift pump


mad1
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Hi all what the symptoms of a poorly lift pump .... Iv got a donor discovery but when revved after about 15/30 seconds it's goes "lumpy" on tick over ??

Is the poss due to lift pump

Any ideas before I take it into garage to get fitted into my 110

Cheers

M1

 

Ps where's the best place to get a new one if needed ...

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Normally just generally sluggish, not getting enough fuel in quick enough basically.

 

Could be a blocked fuel filter or similar, there is a water trap near the fuel tank and if this is limiting the flow it could be revving fine burning fuel in the line further down then the filter is blocking the flow so hence why it goes lumpy.

 

Are you asking so to test the engine before it gets swapped into your 110? if so i would get a new lift pump fitted its only a few easy to get to bolts, then take the hose off between the pump and the filter assy and put it straight in a jug of diesel this way your removing all the variables of blocked filters etc.

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Yes I'm going to give it a service before it gets transplanted so I know it's running so it's a fuel .oil air filters and a new lift pump .... Is there supposed to be much resistance when priming with the lever cos these very little on mine ?

Thanks in advance

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The lift pump works off a lobe on the cam shaft, when the lube is in position to actuate the lift pump then the lift pump primer will be floppy, turning the engine one complete revolution should see the lobe in the 'off' spot, if not try another half rev

 

Personally I'd adapt the tank to filter pipe to run out of a Jerry can, fit a new fuel filter and run from the Jerry can in the engine bay as discos have issues with tank stack pipes, the bends at the top of the fuel sender unit rotting through and the water trap, a Jerry can will rule these out ASAP

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It should come from tank to lift pump to filter to injection pump

 

Follow pipe from lift pump down chassis, cut somewhere accessible to repair with some rubber pipe if you need to use on road later, but long enough to pull back to engine bay to loop in to jerry can

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I'd order a new filter (£5) and a lift pump (£19) its easy to change the lift pump -2 bolts and some pipes to screw in. Mine wouldn't hand prime so I unscrewed the filter back off and poured in some fresh diesel and then screwed it back on (primed it) then she fired up and run perfect. My 90 had the previous sy?mptoms you describe and since changing these has run perfect!

 

Let us know you get on!

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Just a update:

The new fuel filter turned up today so it was swapped over and I also noticed one of the leak back pipes was perished so they were changed too ....I got it started and it still hesitated when pushed to about 2k revs ?? So I am still waiting on the new lift pump to turn up then that will be changed too ....

It's def a fuel related prob cos soon as it pushed to 2k revs it's hesitates and goes lumpy ? But if you quickly lift of the accelerator it will eventually sort it's self out and tick over smooth again as if it's fuel starvation?

So not great news yet but at least I'm ruling out what it's not

Cheers all

M1

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when the lift pump comes it will come with extra screws and adaptors , pump extention piece, gasket........make sure you use the right fitments as the lift arm will not sit on the cam otherwise and when i got mine the screws were a different thread...so when you take it off DONT throw anything away..............

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Just a update:

The new fuel filter turned up today so it was swapped over and I also noticed one of the leak back pipes was perished so they were changed too ....I got it started and it still hesitated when pushed to about 2k revs ?? So I am still waiting on the new lift pump to turn up then that will be changed too ....

It's def a fuel related prob cos soon as it pushed to 2k revs it's hesitates and goes lumpy ? But if you quickly lift of the accelerator it will eventually sort it's self out and tick over smooth again as if it's fuel starvation?

So not great news yet but at least I'm ruling out what it's not

Cheers all

M1

 

 

 

sometimes when i have fitted a new filter i have found 2 "o" rings in the top recess one of which is twisted.....when you fit the new filter get a awl or something pointy and check there isnt another "o" ring in the top recess before you fit the new "o" ring

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Yeah plum it to a jerry can

 

Sediment / water trap on inside of right hand chassis rail level with rear diff flange

 

The jerry can will eliminate both the trap and possible corroded tank pipes

 

The other option for this would be to fit a section of clear pipe between filter and injection pump and then view the fuel looking for air bubbles as you lift the revs, and if air is present, doing the same on the fuel feed to lift pump pipe to see if the air is present in the fuel feed, if so suspect tank pipes / trap, if not suspect filter / lift pump / connections

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Right lads new update ....

The lift pump still isn't here but I cleaned the banjo bolts the return filtered one was blocked ??

I found the sedimentor and to be honest it fell to bits when I tryed to clean and remove it so iv just bypassed it ?!?

After re bleeding it it fired straight up but it took quite a while to bleed ....so am I right in thinking the air leak is between tank and lift pump ? I'm not to concerned if it's a split in pipe as the engine is coming out and all that pipe will be replaced ..so fingers crossed it was just the **** pipe work from tank

I'll post any results from changing pump as it's due tomorrow !!!

Ps the pipes on top of pump are really tight could I just cut and replace them so I can get socket on or are they a flange type end on pipe ( like brake pipe style )

Again many thanks

Ps I noticed the engine run rev really cleanly when the bleed screw was slightly cracked open ??

M1

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Right it's sorted !! I changed a section from the tank to pump and yes there is bubbles shown but only when revved ? So it's obviously from the stack pipe side ? But seen as I'm not putting disco tank and pipe work into defender I'm not going to bother fixing it as it's coming back out in a month or so time ( if that makes sence ) the lift pump turned up is I also changed that ( not 100% on last one working properly )

Right next question iv cleaned the intercooler out and it was black and slimey with oil ! Is it worth altering the actuator arm and doing the pump changes or does it not really give you much improvement ?? I'm not after a hot hatch drive just a bit more go when I need it !!

Cheers again

M1

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if the intercooler was oily it is proberly one of 4 things

 

  • rings need doing.......the engine is breathing heavy
  • turbo seals need doing
  • air filter needs replacing
  • boost diaphrapm in injector pump has rotted out

wouldnt play with the actuator-waste gate...because then you will have to alter the injector pump....its set to give you the optimun in all ranges...so i suggest leave it...cant see the point in trying to get more of an engine than its design limits....

 

 

its like shooting a 20 bore with maximum load......you might as well buy a 16 bore and use a normal load

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Every vehicle will have some cack in the intercooler, it's inevitable, al engines breath a little, a new engine will breath more than a run in engine, and in this there will always be traces of hot oil vapour, that vapour will condense when it meets the intercooler, and after many thousands of miles will look like a thick stogy oil deposit

 

Give it a wash through with some paraffin then leave it to dry, it'll be fine

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