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Beretta A301 (steel shot Y/N)


ppaynter
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I used to have an A303,technically the same gun as your 301 which I bought specifically to take part in steel shot trials conducted way back in the late 1980`s.

 

Your gun will not have been steel shot proved at the time of manufacture, steel proof did not exist then.

 

Your gun was however, made for the American market which had just gone over to the use of steel. I used steel through mine for some 13 years, until I sold it,with no damage to the gun whatsoever.

 

You need to be aware that, unless you have one of the special order 3" chambered guns, that your 301 only has a 70mm or 2 3/4 inch chamber.

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The 303's with mobil choke barrels have steel proof chokes, hence the chokes been stamped with SP.

 

Not sure about the suitability of the barrel before the choke tho....

 

 

I'd have a look stateside and see what they are stuffing through them.

 

Wasn't the 301 special order in 3" and the 3" had a different receiver but from 302 onward all the receivers were 3" compatible but you had to change the barrel to suit?

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USE OF steel shot in Beretta semi-autos has been discussed at length here , I think fairly recently. Here are a couple of references: Topic numbers:232377, 280860. Here are some excerpts in case the Topics are hard to find via the Topic Numbers: 280860- Paul87 (he,like me, has an A302 and an AL391 Urika 1) recommends using no tighter than half-choke, and staying away from high performance (HP) steel loads. There was the suggestion from somebody to use 32-36gram No.4 shot (I'd have thought larger than that given that it's steel) and to keep within the pressure tolerances of the barrel. Most steel loads are designed to stay in the wad till they leave the barrel, apparently, so that helps. Topic 232377: AlistairB says Beretta tend not to stamp their barrels with the steel proof fleur-de-lys symbol but they ARE tested in Italy to 1370bar (it might be 1390, he thinks). This is the burst test proof for HP steel. He urged the op. to check the proof marks on his gun and then to compare it to the Italian Proof House Marks in order to see if his gun is proofed to 1370bar. Somewhere here it was suggested that Gamebore 2.3/4, in no.3 work well, and Eley 2.3/4 VIP HP Steel seem good for duck over flashes at 25-40 yds. Also recommended were RC "Atomic Line" 34gm loads of No.3. Please note, I'm just passing on info. from notes I made; the opinions here are not mine; I know nothing about this from experience. Stay safe.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't been online in a while and passed this link on to chacotawas just now http://www.fourten.org.uk/steel3.pdf

From this article it would appear there is no benefit in using a choke as it causes the hard steel pellets to bounce and act eradically when exiting the barrel.

 

I would use at least a number 4 shot or bigger for duck, the general rule I go by for steel is to go up at least 2 shot sizes bigger than you would in lead for your intended quarry.

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I haven't been online in a while and passed this link on to chacotawas just now http://www.fourten.org.uk/steel3.pdf

From this article it would appear there is no benefit in using a choke as it causes the hard steel pellets to bounce and act eradically when exiting the barrel.

 

I would use at least a number 4 shot or bigger for duck, the general rule I go by for steel is to go up at least 2 shot sizes bigger than you would in lead for your intended quarry.

 

 

So do you think it would be better to take the choke out then

 

cheers Phil

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Its entirely up to yourself Phil, from reading that article I will probably shoot steel with cylinder choke. The only way to truly tell what the best choke is, is to pattern your gun with different chokes in. Your 301 will be fine to shoot without a choke if the barrel has the knurled end that holds the choke in place, just be sure to put it back on before firing it

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