malkiserow Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 A good Damascus blade is just a thing of beauty....... I cannot see any structural advantage that is meaningful to the average user. There will be good ones and bad ones. I am a mora fan and keep my customized mora as a neck knife whenever I am out in the field. If lost I'll not worry and just customize another one. I get the feeling there is no perfect knife that does everything, you need a range of them!!!! And then you need a good little axe and billhook!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Malc, I've always fancied a Damascus blade. Do they have the same up/downsides as Japanese laminated blades? Depends what you want it for really..... Pure beauty, go for the Damascus. Laminated is not pretty, if you can even see the 3layers. I have one blade which is laminated with 2 steels as the softer one is folded around the 2 sides and 1 edge of the harder steel..... All made by a clever Brit!!!! Is it 'better'? It holds a better edge but if chipped is a bit more work to bring it back. Do you like grinding in your kitchen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Do you like grinding in your kitchen? Chance would be a fine thing :( I'm a bit hit and miss with sharpening. Sometimes I can get a razor edge quite easily, sometimes I can be at the stone for hours and make little headway. I don't have any expensive knives and though I covet a nice custom one, it's the worry I'll wreck when sharpening that stops me. More practice required I think. That or just take them all to Macaroni in May and get you to do them That's what the other lads all do. Ack Ack is chucking garden shears, toe nail clippers, old hoes in the back of his Landy now in preparation. Though to be fair the old hoes are there most of the year anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 You need to speak to Longstrider on British Blades or Real Outdoor Forum - he can get a edge on jelly! Also, he can adjust edge profiles to give you a more robust edge if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clakk Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 get yourself an any sharp ,but dont pay 20 quid at a show.asda do em ,just stick on a worktop n draw the blade through .works a treat consistant sharp edge or a v sharpener .rough 1 side for bad edges and ceramic the other for fine finishing.they must be easy my grandsoon does the daughters knives with his and he,s only 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Tried all the pull through sharpeners and never got on with them. I found they could be a bit aggressive and remove too much metal. Also they are one angle only which may not suit the blade. I have a selection of proper sharpening stones, including some Japanese water stones which are great. I can use them, just not consistently. Some blades sharpen up a doddle, others I struggle with. malkiserow is a bit of a sharpening guru, I just need to serve a longer apprenticeship watching him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clakk Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 yeh practice makes better,i tried a steel no chance avent got a clue.each to their own.my old man could sharpen chisels n drill bits by eye but i never inherited those skills.sounds like malki,s got some sharpening to do.whilst you supervise of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Low layer Damascus around 20 I think using 15n20 , o1 , 52100 , lovely patten and holds amazing edge the maker is Bones61 That's a beauty Mate! Edited December 31, 2014 by TIGHTCHOKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wraivi Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Sorry to hijack this chaps, I have been making knives for a little while, mostly with hardwoods and synthetics and just got some nice stag horn to try. Just wanted to ask Clakk, what are you using to seal the horn? any information about solving the porous properties would be gratefully received. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clakk Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 brickseal ,for waterproofing crumbling brick work.about 15 to 20 quid a tin depending on make and size.pore it on the inner face till it soaks through and give it 24 hours to dry.after fitting to the blade for a shiny finish beeswax and buff.then to keep sealed i use yacht varnish ,but i have been persueded to try car lacquer on a antler marsh stick handle and so far so good.atb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wraivi Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) Many thanks for the info, it was bugging me about a sealant, as I often give my dog an antler chew, which seems to soften after his slobbery attentions. I am going to give your recommendation a bash. Thanks again for your input. Edited January 2, 2015 by wraivi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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