Marki Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I was given this a couple of weeks ago as a wallhanger by Peck, a user on here. I started looking at getting it deactivated, doing the work myself and then getting it sent out but eventually decided that it was worth having a play with first. I'm not deluding myself, it is rough, but what's the loss? A few hours in the shed? I do that just hiding from the wife. Gun is a Armstrong and co, SXS hammer. Assuming I've read the proof marks correctly it is roughly 110 years old. Barrels have some internal pitting but it doesn't appear excessive. I'll stick a bore scope in there just to check. Stock is obviously smashed. It's been used since the break evident from the four copper strips holding it together! I initially considered making a stock but have decided to try and retain some of the patina and repairing the original. The metal work isn't too bad, some of the browning has worn off the the barrels but a quick inspection doesn't show much more than age related stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 My approach to this would be to use acetone or a whiting mixture to remove oil from the broken area then glue the head back together, cut a piece of ply or walnut ( it will be hidden so as long as its a tough hard wood it should be OK ) that is the length and width of the trigger guard ( from the very front right back to just before it tapers, and just less than the depth of the head of the stock. Using a router held in a fixed jig you will have to make to hold the stock and allow the router to make the cut, or just using a chisel, carefully cut a slot in the wood to accept the fillet, the fit of the stock to the fillet is critical. Once you are satisfied you can glue the fillet in place, you will then have to re inlet for the trigger plate and triggers, and re drill the top and rear tang bolts, as well as the side nail's for the locks, finish by inletting the trigger guard which will make the repair work invisible. A repair carried out in the manner described will take some time, however if the work is done well it will be sound; the gun being as strong as it ever was. The plates are part of the guns history in my opinion and should be left in situ, more wood could be inlet into their place and checkered over but i think by keeping the plates you will preserve more of the character of the gun which has obviously had a hard working life. Take your time and an effective and long term repair is not a difficult job but it will take time, and will easily be more satisfying and more in keeping than a restock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marki Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Thanks for the advice, really appreciated. It's an interesting approach and certainly a better solution than mine. I have got a couple of small blocks of walnut and various other bits of hardwood that could be used. I'd originally planned to fill the holes with a matching piece of wood and blend it in but now you've spoke about it I can see the attraction of leaving the plates in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peck Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Good luck with the project. Make sure you keep us up to date with the restoration. Peck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looks like a very interesting project, I too would leave the copper strips as they will add a lot of character, is the plan to deact or put back into use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno22rf Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looks to me like a typical mass produced Hammergun of the period-these were made all over Europe pretty much to an identical pattern. I would look around for a cheap deactivated gun with decent wood that you could use for parts. Have a look on Gunstar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looks to me like a typical mass produced Hammergun of the period-these were made all over Europe pretty much to an identical pattern. I would look around for a cheap deactivated gun with decent wood that you could use for parts. Have a look on Gunstar. Sometimes the enjoyment is in fixing the broken parts to make it work again, keeping the originality! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Demonwolf's method is a good one however if it's just going on the wall. Degrease it with acetone, once dry drill an outsize hole into both sides and fit a steel threaded road using a good epoxy ensuring the break lines up well. Then prettify it for the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno22rf Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 I agree Paul123 but sometimes you have to accept defeat and,in this case,if you can get an identical replacement from the same era and its not going to take a gun out of service i.e. a deac. then it makes more sense-you could spend weeks on a stock that's broken at the hand and a lot of money to boot only to find that it breaks again under the pressure of recoil. I bought a very similar gun from wabbitbosher on this very site for less than £40- after a few weeks with Doctor demonwolf444 the stock was returned to me in stunning condition-in fact of my many shotguns I would say its the best by a long way-if the OP wants to use the gun I would suggest he gives replacement and a stay with the Doc some serious consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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