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Mod cleaning


la bala
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Out this evening after bunnies so decided to give the cz .22 a pull through, i thought while i was at it i would have the PH moderator to bits for a clean. Well, looks like i have burnt a bit of powder since the last time. I would like to have the baffles out again, what is the best cleaner to soak them in.

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Whenever I take the ph to bits I'm amazed at the amount of crud build-up in relation to the amount of powder in a 22 rf. I used a small screwdriver and a knifepoint and scrape the crud off like shale. I then just brush them with an old brass suede brush to get the fine off of them and they come up like new.

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There's a product called silensave which when sprayed into a moderator, leaves a protective film. This film is activated once a round has been put through the mod'. I've bought some but have yet to use it on my moderators.

 

Napier Silensave - 125ml. A simple effective chemical that is sprayed directly into either end of the moderator prior to storage. The specially formulated chemical is dispensed with a very low pressure aerosol that creates a mist within the can, ensuring a very fine but even coating on the internal surfaces and baffles. Nothing can prevent the condensation created within a moderator, but regular use of SILENSAVE will make sure that it does not lead to damage and greatly prolongs the life of any type or make of Silencer.

This contains Napier’s VP90 corrosion inhibitor amongst other compounds and is carried by a specific solvent that evaporates leaving just the finest coating behind. But that is just stage one however, as on first firing after application the extreme and immediate heat bonds the chemical to the metal surfaces almost like a ceramic coating, so when used regularly this simply prevents the metals from corrodin

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Just been on another forum about mod cleaning. Ive had my PH about 10 yrs and never cleaned it and its only been off the rifle once.

Its had thousands of rounds through it and it still shoots spot on. Perhaps i should have a look. Never cleaned my CZ 452 barrel either

just cleaned the chamber/breech as i had a few cases sticking now and then. Also stripped the bolt and cleaned it. A bit of crud behind

the claws but not too bad. Trouble with me is, when i take something apart i never get it back together properly lol.

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Just been on another forum about mod cleaning. Ive had my PH about 10 yrs and never cleaned it and its only been off the rifle once.

Its had thousands of rounds through it and it still shoots spot on. Perhaps i should have a look. Never cleaned my CZ 452 barrel either

just cleaned the chamber/breech as i had a few cases sticking now and then. Also stripped the bolt and cleaned it. A bit of crud behind

the claws but not too bad. Trouble with me is, when i take something apart i never get it back together properly lol.

If you have never cleaned your mod in 10years i doubt you will get the baffles out, I only give my barrel a clean if i start to get stray shots.

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Just been on another forum about mod cleaning. Ive had my PH about 10 yrs and never cleaned it and its only been off the rifle once.

Its had thousands of rounds through it and it still shoots spot on. Perhaps i should have a look. Never cleaned my CZ 452 barrel either

just cleaned the chamber/breech as i had a few cases sticking now and then. Also stripped the bolt and cleaned it. A bit of crud behind

the claws but not too bad. Trouble with me is, when i take something apart i never get it back together properly lol.

I use Win /CCI /Eley and RWS and with all makes after about 500 rounds there is a fair amount of clag in there and the sound isn't reduced very much. If yours hasn't been cleaned out with that many rounds put through it then it will be really difficult to get to bits without damaging it and it must be just like a solid tube of clag that doesn't silence as it should. I would give it a bit of a gentle tapping round to loosen of the threads of the end cap and take it from there. It might help to soak it in boiling water then ice water then tap several times over and then flush to see if anything could be got out. IF you can get it to bits take a load of pictures to show how the bits are assembled inside. There is an order to the bits and the holes in the baffles have a distortion to make the gas tumble inside the tube. there was a rod supplied when new to reassemble the bits on to refit into the tube.

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