wisdom Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 I have an oldish webley and scott single barrel hammergun, the metalwork is like new barrel is unmarked in and out and the action still retains its case hardening. I know its not worth anything monetry wise. I use it on the bunnies and for a little bit of rough shooting, I have s x s and over and unders but its just nice to use every now and again. Its taught my 2 sons to shoot as well.It is pretty well worn woodwork wise though so I would like to have a go at doing it up, if its a success i will do one of my over and unders up as well, so basically I will use it to practice on. Seeing plenty of advice on here on various posts here is my plan. Strip the woodwork using chemical stripper avoiding the newer nitromors as opinions on here say its not too good. work it into the chequering with a tooth brush. scrape of the old varnish/laquer using a piece of glass or similar. clean down with white spirit. lightly sand any imperfections avoiding the chequering. Then build up with subsequent coats of oil. What oil do you recommend please? Is the above method correct? Any tips would be most welcome. Wizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 For scrapping, I don't have a lot of experience with /guns/ per se, but I build guitars which have the same sort of 'needs' The BEST way to make a scrapper is to take the the blade of a carpet knife, and pass it at about 45 degrees on a sharpening stone; don't push the blade 'into' the stone, push it the other way around. Make sure NOT to turn the blade around, do always the same side. This will create a nice burr on the blade, and will make you the most fantastic scapper you have ever used. 're-burr' as appropriate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) Well an interesting question and you'll get many views and opinions. I have just finished another auto-5 stock and forend and am pretty satisfied with the results. It was in poor condition dating from the 50's and caked in oil and gunk. I had nothing to lose as I have a few spare stocks and forends so had a go. I am sure there will be the usual flurry if disapproving comments but I stripped the finish with oven cleaner that I bought from Robert Dyas and then gave each part several soakings in hot water and oxy clean. The finish and years of gunk and oil came out easily. Left for a few days to dry and then a sanding to smooth and denib. I finished with a mix of pure tung oil that I bought from eBay diluted slightly with white spirit. The result is great and a million miles from what it was like before. It's drying in the garage as we speak will post up some pics tomorrow. Edited August 28, 2016 by Wingman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 For scrapping, I don't have a lot of experience with /guns/ per se, but I build guitars which have the same sort of 'needs' The BEST way to make a scrapper is to take the the blade of a carpet knife, and pass it at about 45 degrees on a sharpening stone; don't push the blade 'into' the stone, push it the other way around. Make sure NOT to turn the blade around, do always the same side. This will create a nice burr on the blade, and will make you the most fantastic scapper you have ever used. 're-burr' as appropriate. Thanks for the advice.Do you mean a stanley knife blade Well an interesting question and you'll get many views and opinions. I have just finished another auto-5 stock and forend and am pretty satisfied with the results. It was in poor condition dating from the 50's and caked in oil and gunk. I had nothing to lose as I have a few spare stocks and forends so had a go. I am sure there will be the usual flurry if disapproving comments but I stripped the finish with oven cleaner that I bought from Robert Dyas and then gave each part several soakings in hot water and oxy clean. The finish and years of gunk and oil came out easily. Left for a few days to dry and then a sanding to smooth and denib. I finished with a mix of pure tung oil that I bought from eBay diluted slightly with white spirit. The result is great and a million miles from what it was like before. It's drying in the garage as we speak will post up some pics tomorrow. Wingman the stock on the browning looks really good.Nice job.Will try the tung oil screwfix near me sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Use a good stripper it will remove most if not all finish, then degrease any oil soaking PM me if you don't know how but basically use acetone. Then sand down though the grades raise the grain at the end stain seal then start oiling. Oil wise I make my own but trade secret is a very good oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Use a good stripper it will remove most if not all finish, then degrease any oil soaking PM me if you don't know how but basically use acetone. Then sand down though the grades raise the grain at the end stain seal then start oiling. Oil wise I make my own but trade secret is a very good oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Buy acetone from beauty supply stores or eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 How do you clean/strip the checkering without damaging it people? toothbrush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Depends how bad stiff nylon brush or if bad brass brush ideally softer brass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxwit Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Sorry to hijack the post - but I saw somewhere that you use fine grade wire wool to scrape the old stuff off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 I like tung oil its everywhere cheap and it works you can look after the wood long term with it and unlike some finnishes it stands up to wildfowling getting muddy wet scuffed and scratched, you can bring it back and it protects pretty good in harder conditions. Rather than explain it in full, yjis 40 min video cover the basics pretty good all in one place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) Soak the forend and stock in acetone for a while the last one I did was in for a good week or so. I used a stiff nylon brush to clean the chequering the sort you use to clean the dishes. If you dont have acetone white spirit works ok. On one of my recent refinish jobs, I went on to soak the wood in Oxy-Clean and very hot water that worked really well but I wasnt bothered if I damaged to stock as I had a spare.... Scraping the old finish off with a stanley knife blade also works well but please dont go anywhere near the chequering. I have done quite a few now and enjoy it but the results are generally "acceptable" rather than astonishing, perfectly good for a functional pigeon gun and much improved from how they were before. Came out like this... Good luck let us know how you get on! Edited September 7, 2016 by Wingman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Please don't use really hot water the stock can bend and warp it'll look pretty but won't shoot where it should if it happens. Tung oil was used on military rifles it's a tuff finish but not a pretty one IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Please don't use really hot water the stock can bend and warp it'll look pretty but won't shoot where it should if it happens. Damn so thats why I keep missing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Bit of an update.Sorry don't know how to put pictures up. Top tip the stanley knife blade.The finish has come off really well. Only oil staining is on the fore end. I plan to go over it all with wire wool just to get into odd places.I will go over the flat areas with a very fine glass paper. Would I then wipe it all down with white spirit and when all is really dry apply the tung oil. Also it is short in the stock which was fine when the kids were small so I thought of adding a simple rubber recoil pad.Any ideas on where from.I don't have an e bay account.Local gunshop only has fancy ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Nice! Yeah the stanley blade scrapper is a fantastic tool, with a bit of practice you will get smoother finish with that than with any amount of sanding. For hard wearing parts on guitars, I actually use superglue finish (google it), wet sanded, scraped flat with the stanley knife, then polished like a normal varnish (T-Cut etc). You end up with a finish that is incredible in durability. Remember for the oil, it might look 'dry' but to get it's most durability it takes /months/. On guitars I know that it becomes usable after a few days or a couple of weeks, but it mark easily... after 6 months it's nail dry and nearly bulletproof; so give it time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphant59 Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Best scraper I've used is an old hacksaw blade, just run back over a grinder to get sharp edges and you then have a scraper that bends to the shape of the stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 For hard wearing parts on guitars, I actually use superglue finish (google it), wet sanded, scraped flat with the stanley knife, then polished like a normal varnish (T-Cut etc). You end up with a finish that is incredible in durability. Thanks buze, found this link http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/using-super-glue-wood-finish-104282/ I have got to try that on my next one!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks buze, found this link http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/using-super-glue-wood-finish-104282/ I have got to try that on my next one!!!! Thats's it, save that do NOT use any paper towel anywhere near the CA glue; it acts as an accelerant for drying, and it's bEEEch to remove afterward. Also, work in a well ventilated space, it's a but of a head spinner. I also use the 'medium' CA. I usually make a small applicator pad using carboard or something, it will become nice after a couple of coats of CA have dried on it. So the idea is, slap it on, sand it back flatish, add another layer, and do that 3 or 4 times. Then wet sand it, and buff to taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 What sort of finish can I expect with Danish oil. Reason behind the question is they have it in smaller bottles near me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) I really like danish oil. You can get from mat to gloss, depending on how you finish it. the easier finish to do is 'sheen' by applying with a plastic sponge, but people also use the 'rake' japanese brush to the same effect. To get gloss, just apply as normal, let it try very, very well, then buff using a polishing compound like T-cut. That's the sort of finish you get with 'sheen' looks. Edited September 9, 2016 by buze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 All these different finishes you've got to wonder why gunmakers stick to gun stock oil on gun stocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 All these different finishes you've got to wonder why gunmakers stick to gun stock oil on gun stocks? Seems quite a few things gets 'invented' differently for different fields, also, stuff like Danish oil and especially CA didn't exist back then. I'm not saying that Gun oil is not good obviously, just saying that there's quite a few tough finish these days. From my experience, CA finish is tougher than Oil, however, it's also not a finish you can 'top up' like Oil; CA is like encasing the wood in a thin layer of VERY tough resin. Danish oil vs Gun Oil I'm not sure. Contrary to most oils, Danish oil /will/ cure solid (after a while), and can be topped up; however I have no idea how it compare to traditional oil in terms of longevity. Obviously not trying to open a can of worm here, I'm VERY interested in oil finishes myself as I've done a few -- just not on guns, so I'm quite curious about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 (edited) Update. (Sorry don't know how to put pics on here). The stock and forend have come up great with Danish oil.The reason I didnt use gun stock oil is its around 30 miles round trip to my usual gunshop and I'm just 5 mins away from ironmongers.I gave it 5 coats wire wooling between coats. Its really brought out some nice grain and if i scratch it i can just rub some more in.It was only £6.25 a tin. After such success I'm going to do the s X s .410 next. Edited September 18, 2016 by wisdom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winnie&bezza Posted September 18, 2016 Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Update. (Sorry don't know how to put pics on here). The stock and forend have come up great with Danish oil.The reason I didnt use gun stock oil is its around 30 miles round trip to my usual gunshop and I'm just 5 mins away from ironmongers.I gave it 5 coats wire wooling between coats. Its really brought out some nice grain and if i scratch it i can just rub some more in.It was only £6.25 a tin. After such success I'm going to do the s X s .410 next. Couldn't of you just had stock oil posted to you? Any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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