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Bio Cup Wad Help Please


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My Grandson would like to ( that means get me to do them ) try some 10ga Steel loads using Bio Cup Wad from Clay Game.

My question is do you lower or raise the powder charge if so by how much or load them as you would using plastic non toxic wads thanks in advance

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24 minutes ago, 6.5x55SE said:

My Grandson would like to ( that means get me to do them ) try some 10ga Steel loads using Bio Cup Wad from Clay Game.

My question is do you lower or raise the powder charge if so by how much or load them as you would using plastic non toxic wads thanks in advance

Generally with fibre wads you raise the powder charge to maintain the performance "FPS" of a plaswad. but i suppose it depends on how good your gas sealing is with the fibre cup wads.

I think The fibre wads are expensive for what they are and i so far am quite pleased with wrapping and constructing my own wads rather like the JOKER bio wads with nitro cards. I like the aloy foil tape and am looking at linning wads with aloy sieves too.

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5 minutes ago, lancer425 said:

Generally with fibre wads you raise the powder charge to maintain the performance "FPS" of a plaswad. but i suppose it depends on how good your gas sealing is with the fibre cup wads.

I think The fibre wads are expensive for what they are and i so far am quite pleased with wrapping and constructing my own wads rather like the JOKER bio wads with nitro cards. I like the aloy foil tape and am looking at linning wads with aloy sieves too.

Thanks mate 👍 yes i agree about the price. In grains what approximately would increase the powder charge by

Just now, Dave at kelton said:

I am just working on these using an inverted cup over the powder for better obturation. I have used my standard plaswad powder charge as a start.  Just can’t get out to test and say how they perform.

Thanks Dave yes it's a pain not being able to test any reloads 

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Just now, 6.5x55SE said:

Thanks mate 👍 yes i agree about the price. In grains what approximately would increase the powder charge by

Just go with original loading, either chrono loads or perhaps a penetration test at a given range. Just jump up in "A TEN" say 2 grains should be safe enough. so if your on say 40 grain of A STEEL newer lots just try 42.

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6 minutes ago, lancer425 said:

Just go with original loading, either chrono loads or perhaps a penetration test at a given range. Just jump up in "A TEN" say 2 grains should be safe enough. so if your on say 40 grain of A STEEL newer lots just try 42.

Thank you very much appreciated 

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17 minutes ago, 6.5x55SE said:

Thank you very much appreciated 

Be sure to post back with your finding re the condition of the spent wads etc. I like the aloy tape idea i think its a way of toughening up a fragile wad. But the verdict is very nuch out on this yet. It might be the season if we have one before i get to do any real research. meantime im on plaswads to at least have some ammo ready IF we get to go.

 

Looking at this but not sure how or if it will work yet.

https://www.tradestoreonline.co.uk/Reinforced-Aluminium-Foil-Tape-

Edited 20 hours ago by lancer425

Edited by lancer425
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On 11/04/2020 at 19:02, Dave at kelton said:

I am just working on these using an inverted cup over the powder for better obturation. I have used my standard plaswad powder charge as a start.  Just can’t get out to test and say how they perform.

The inverted card cup seal is the best bio seal you can use. my only reservations about it are born from, experience with some plaswads and blowing skirts off the seal section of the wads.

 How will the inverted cups stand up to this kind of abuse.?  I ask plain and simple because i have no idea at this moment how they will shape up.

Its not unussual to lose half the skirt in one piece, the base of the wad often looks melted. Its not powder or velocity specific as far i i could see, but such wads tended to be 10ga loads "i like sam1s in ten" with RSI SAM 1s and in the 1500FPS or more 10ga and heavy loads 44 gram typically. But pressures were 10k or close to it. so up there but not over pressure if you understand.

 

image.png.320ea60adffaf9ac41fb1e9de9d88f7a.png

 

Edited by lancer425
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Just now, Old farrier said:

Better to blow a skirt of a card cupseal than not have one 

it’ll happen I’m sure but not all the time 

the Winchester’s used it very effectively for a long time 

I agree and if you think about it it has to have been doing a good sealing job to wreck it in the first place. Another option is the floppy felts from siarm, they seal well with nothing more than a a top card under them direct to the powder.

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57 minutes ago, lancer425 said:

The inverted card cup seal is the best bio seal you can use. my only reservations about it are born from, experience with some plaswads and blowing skirts off the seal section of the wads.

 How will the inverted cups stand up to this kind of abuse.?  I ask plain and simple because i have no idea at this moment how they will shape up.

Its not unussual to lose half the skirt in one piece, the base of the wad often looks melted. Its not powder or velocity specific as far i i could see, but such wads tended to be 10ga loads "i like sam1s in ten" with RSI SAM 1s and in the 1500FPS or more 10ga and heavy loads 44 gram typically. But pressures were 10k or close to it. so up there but not over pressure if you understand.

 

image.png.320ea60adffaf9ac41fb1e9de9d88f7a.png

 

When I can finally get out testing I will be trying to collect as many wads as I can for inspection. I will be loading both ten and twelve bores in this way so will let everyone know the results in due course.

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