mosa Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 I am struggling getting Jess to walk to heel. Once she passes me about half her body length i do a 90 degree turn with a sharp pull on the lead followed by the heel command. she no longer takes me for a walk and the leader is always slack now its just she is mostly at my heel as mentioned in a more forward possition ie her belly at my heel. |I have been doing this most days 2 x 15-20 min sessions for the last month. How do i cure this. One for you Dan!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 You have the correct idea but you are letting her get too far ahead. Once she is half a body length ahead of you, you are out of her vision and she has no idea how far ahead she is....so she goes alittle further again. As soon as her right shoulder passes your left knee turn and pop on the lead. You do not have to turn 90 degrees each time, you can keep her from guessing by turning, 45, 90, 30 just pick a new tangent and pop as you go. By popping her as her shoulder passes, you are still in her vision allowing her to see a referance . NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosa Posted October 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 You have the correct idea but you are letting her get too far ahead. Once she is half a body length ahead of you, you are out of her vision and she has no idea how far ahead she is....so she goes alittle further again. As soon as her right shoulder passes your left knee turn and pop on the lead. You do not have to turn 90 degrees each time, you can keep her from guessing by turning, 45, 90, 30 just pick a new tangent and pop as you go. By popping her as her shoulder passes, you are still in her vision allowing her to see a referance . NTTF cheers Dan by pop do you mean a swift pull which at times lifts her feet from the ground? or just a snap backwards? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 a quick snap and a release Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferretboy111 Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Im on this task myself with my ESS- she is definately getting the grip of it, doing 15mins every day with her. The only trouble im having with her is that she wants to have her nose down hunting all the time, but ill keep persisting at it, she is starting to watch me more instead of smelling which is good. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Put a command to it....I use "no sniff" . When she drops her head give a pop up and a "no sniff at the same time and carry on forward. Just keep walking dont even break stride. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie 1 Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 If you guys put the lead up right to the top of your dogs neck, so it should be up brhind the ears you will find that the dog will be more responsive. this is because the bottom of the neck nearer the shoulders is the strongest part so the dog won't feel it as much as a correction. with the lead at the top of the neck this will move the dogs head more so the dog should then stop. hope this makes sence. keep at it guys charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurcherboy Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Does anyone ever use a horse whip to keep the head up anymore? LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul in North Lincs. Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 when trianing my ESS to heel I used an light 6 ft garden cane......and a slip lead When walking on the lead, the cane was held in the same hand as the lead, in the middle so it could be easily pivotted forwards or backward..... When the pup strained, the can was tilted towards his nose.......bringing him back to heel, using the heel command.........if he slacked off it could be tilted down towards the tail...........thus bring him him back to heel...........using the heel command I walk the pup on a 'slip lead' as apposed to a traditional chain, or clip.....After a couple of week whilst walking with the cane and dog on slip.....I slid the slip lead off the collar without the pup realising.......... He was then walking to heel with no lead......I then phased out the cane, and the slip......and now he's perfect, and will walk to heel off the lead for as long as I want, or until I tell him otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Paul, That method works very well especially working in the rough, and is used when teaching most trial dogs to come to the line. Just so everyone realizes this is the method that LB was talking of, and at no time is the dog hit with the Cane, Bat, Crop or what ever is used. It is just used as a barrier and guidance. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancs Lad Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Been working with Jaz, just giving him a "pop" and a gentle "here" command. Seems to be more tuggy when he is going out on his walk. Nothing like dragging but a taught leash. On the way back I can keep him to heel off the lead with a "here" command. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potshot Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 cheers Dan by pop do you mean a swift pull which at times lifts her feet from the ground? or just a snap backwards? cheers Two thoughts. One, a team of huskies can pull 2 or 3 times their body weight on the harness so what impression are you going to make pulling your dog back or up. Two, remember when your Dad first took the stabilisiers off your bike, you had no sideways stability and that felt really scary. Don't check the lead back or up but check it sideways. This whole situation is about control, the dog wants to go faster so it does - you are no longer in control, the dog wants to go left so it does and again you have lost control. So when the dog has assumed control check the lead sideways, the dog feels off balance i.e. out of control, so you immediately regain control of the situation. Simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurcherboy Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Paul, That method works very well especially working in the rough, and is used when teaching most trial dogs to come to the line. Just so everyone realizes this is the method that LB was talking of, and at no time is the dog hit with the Cane, Bat, Crop or what ever is used. It is just used as a barrier and guidance. NTTF After reading my original post I realise I should have made my question clearer :blink: Cheers Dan LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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