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Corrosion prevention (or more realistically reduction)


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Near enough 30 years ago I bought a 3 year old Defender 90 in good condition.  Knowing that I would probably keep it a good few years at least, I invested a small amount of money and quite a lot of time in cleaning it off well underneath and applying Finnegans Waxoyl, both on the chassis and wherever I could inside the chassis, box sections, door frames etc.  30 years old it isn't perfect, but it has not yet had to be welded and has not yet had any advisories for MoT, so with the benefit of 30 yearsv of hindsight - I judge it money, time and effort well spent.

Wind forward to 2024 and I have bought a 2 year old Toyota and decided (since they are known to rust) to do similar.  Waxoyl seems rather 'out of favour' now, the popular products seeming to be either Lanogard (environmentally friendly lanolin) or Bilt Hamber Dynax (the full chemical works).  I have opted for Bilt Hamber and have been trying (its not as easy now I'm 30 years older!) to do much the same job as I did with the Defender.  It is unlikely to need to last as long as another 30 years as I will be 97 in 30 years time - and I doubt diesel will be even readily available!

Has anyone used Bilt Hamber Dynax (or for that matter Lanogard) - and if so for long enough to know how well it works in preventing/slowing the dreaded rust?

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get it done professionally.........they will do it over 2 days....

1st day ......steam cleaned and blown dry........leave it over night with warm blowers on it

2nd day ......2 coats of your chosen protection

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43 minutes ago, ditchman said:

get it done professionally.........they will do it over 2 days....

1st day ......steam cleaned and blown dry........leave it over night with warm blowers on it

2nd day ......2 coats of your chosen protection

It has been cleaned, but I doubt it's ever been off the road as there is no mud build up even in the usual 'traps', and dried over summer (unused in the sunshine several days).  I have a pit (I admit I've had to add a step ladder in it for this one!) and have been doing some each day.  There don't seem to be many places doing it professionally now (I suppose most people don't keep cars beyond warranty).

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1 hour ago, JohnfromUK said:

It has been cleaned, but I doubt it's ever been off the road as there is no mud build up even in the usual 'traps', and dried over summer (unused in the sunshine several days).  I have a pit (I admit I've had to add a step ladder in it for this one!) and have been doing some each day.  There don't seem to be many places doing it professionally now (I suppose most people don't keep cars beyond warranty).

someone i knew ..used to drill holes in the bottom of his doors ...and spray the bottom inside of the doors with waxoil....the holes were there to allow any moisture water drainage.....his door bottoms never needed welding

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, ditchman said:

someone i knew ..used to drill holes in the bottom of his doors ...and spray the bottom inside of the doors with waxoil....the holes were there to allow any moisture water drainage.....his door bottoms never needed welding

Yes, I did those on my Defender - square section steel frames, aluminium skins folded over at the edges!.  I think I used the drilling holes where the trim clips were (mine is a county with wind up windows and 'trimmed' doors).  Its a 1993 200 tdi - and no welding to date.  All but the rear cross member are looking rust free, but the cross member I think got chipped quite a lot hitching a trailer on and off!  Original owner before me used it to tow a horse trailer.  I bought it (C1995) as a stolen recovery.

Edited by JohnfromUK
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2 minutes ago, ditchman said:

i rekon you are up to snuff on maintenance...nothing else to surgest :good:

Thanks.  I have had 'off roaders' for 40 years and had access to my father's before that.  Mostly LandRover (2 x S1, 2 x S2A, 2 x 90 and a Range Rover Classic), but we have also had Daihatsu (Fourtrack), Mercedes (G wagen), BMW (X5) ......... and now finally a Toyota.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Lanoguard every time for me.  The best rust prevention treatment I've ever used.  Use it on my bikes as well as the car, and reapply once every year or two.  My last car still showed a factory fresh underside despite  years of winter use, thanks to Lanoguard.

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Thanks for that.  It's good to know it is doing the job.  As I said, I have had very good results on a 'long term test' (about 29 years), but I did prep it very well as far as I can remember.  Waxoyl now seems to be rather 'out of favour', but maybe it needs better preparation than more modern products?

This time I went with Bilt Hamber Dynax in the end, though only really as there seemed to be marginally more 'good reviews' than Lanoguard, mainly seeming to relate to needing to be 'refreshed' less often than Lanoguard.  Other sites say that Bilt Hamber and Lanoguard are almost the same product, but with a different solvent used to hold the wax liquid for application.

Time will tell how it does, but it was fairly easy to apply (aerosol) but as years advance, crawling about under cars doesn't get any easier.  I am lucky in that I do have a pit.   BH were very fast in delivery.

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On 10/08/2024 at 17:28, la bala said:

I once saw a chassis  box section being welded ,it had been treated inside,  It was get a hosepipe into the nearest orifice quick.

Hello, I once set alight a Triumph Herald doing some welding on the Chassis 😒 at least it cleaned off the gunk he had sprayed on 😄

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On 09/08/2024 at 17:19, ditchman said:

someone i knew ..used to drill holes in the bottom of his doors ...and spray the bottom inside of the doors with waxoil....the holes were there to allow any moisture water drainage.....his door bottoms never needed welding

Hello, I  use to do that Simon , With Diesel and Oil mix before Wax Oil, Very messy at home so parked up on farm field then drive down a dusty track , Oh happy days then,

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