Toombsy Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Could do with a bit of help if there's anyone out there who's done this... Just bought a nearly new Browning B525 20-bore. The stock's really nice, but it's varnished. The varnish is scratched but not the stock, and I reckon oiling the stock will bring out the grain a treat. I've got all the time in the world to sort this, and I have the patience and skills, but it's something I've never done before. Few questions... What's the best technique/chemical to strip off the old varnish? It's quite a thick coating on this gun. How many times will I need to oil the stock before it's fully protected? Is it absolutely crucial to use a grain filler after the stock and forend has been stripped and sanded? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatcatsplat Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 I did my Lanber (to get rid of the horrible wee smell ) - Nitromors and wire wool to get rid of the laquer - Rub it all down well and then apply boiled linseed oil in a couple or more coats until you get the depth you want - Keep rubbing down between coats and then apply a wax finish at the end to make it shiny and watertight. Just watch when you are rubbing down/cleaning out the chequering - You can get build ups of wood/polish/junk left in the chequering that's a swine to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Another vote for Nitromors and wire wool (0000 grade preferably) Work the nitromors in small areas and gradually work through the whole stock. An old tooth brush will be useful for the chequering. Once you are satisfied the varnish has been removed wash down with warm water to remove excess nitromors and allow to dry. As you will have been removing the varnish with wire wool, the wood should be in good condition to oil. What oil you use is down to personal choice, its the method of application that gets the results. Dont use a 'sanding sealer' or similar prior to oiling, it sort of defeats the object. You want the oil to be absorbed into the wood for best effect. The oil will naturally seal the wood for you. 1. Apply the oil lightly, alow to sit for 5 mins or so, then wipe off any excess oil. 2. Leave to dry for 24hrs. 3. Then de-nib the wood with wire wool, wipe debris off with a tack cloth or similar. 4. Repeat above as needed. You will get to a point where the wood has had its fill of oil, probably after 2 or 3 applications. I tested the moisture content on my stock prior to oiling and it was practically bone dry at 3% I think, 3 applications was all it took. Good luck with your project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 (edited) As said ... Nitromoors. I use one of the kits (CCL or Trade Secrets) with a wood stain, Red oil and rubbing oil with 'hardener'. ... the instructions are pretty good as is the finish. Last one took a couple of weeks and some drying time. Then regular use of one of the oils to improve and maintain the finish. On one stock I did use the grain sealer in the kit and it helped. A hairdrier was handy to speed up smoothing the wood when using steam with wet n dry. As you suggest 'patience and time' are probably the best way to get good results. enjoy your project. Edited December 17, 2009 by seeker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bb Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Don't know about guns but a couple of antique chairs that I rubbed down (some clown in the '60s had painted them white) came up beautifully using Danish oil. Apply sparingly and allow to dry well between coats, result a natural colour, grain visible with a satin waterproof finish. Anybody else tried it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toombsy Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Great tips there - thanks very much for all your help Looking forward to getting started on it in the New Year. Might post some before, during and after pics on the Forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattslaptop247 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Wallnut oil is good to try too. (wallnut preperation oil it's called available from clayman's shop) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntout Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 This is how I did mine Linky Mc Link Link I've since been adding coats of oil and it's getting better and better - much darker than shown here and in any case a vast improvement over previous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT1 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 (edited) Having previously spent 20 years in the furniture industry as a cabinet maker but never worked with walnut, had great success using the following (done 4 stocks to date, 2 more pending) If poss, take the action from the stock, liberally brush with nitromors, put straight in a plastic bag for 30 mins or so (stops it drying/fumes generated help with the stripping process) as previously mentioned use very fine wire wool, and a tootbrush for the checkering. Wash off with white spirits, repeat if necessary, cloth dry then allow to dry naturally. Remove/sand any dents, re-checker if necessary (Peter Dyson do the tools) use fine sand paper, followed by very fine wire wool. I then use grain filler as I find the final finish is better. I then use a walnut spirit based stain (saves resanding/raised grain) allow to dry for a day or two. Then use a button polish, several coats over 3/4 days. I then give it 2/3 coats of London Gun Company Gunstock oil with the hand (not rag) allow to soak in/dry/and buff between coats. Regards John Edited December 18, 2009 by JT1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lasbrisas Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 My son's 20g Lincoln needs doing, he dinked it by accident last week and was very upset. It too is varnished, not sure if I'm brave enough to try this as I could make it worse. Is it difficult to remove the action from the stock or is it best to leave it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntout Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 My son's 20g Lincoln needs doing, he dinked it by accident last week and was very upset. It too is varnished, not sure if I'm brave enough to trythis as I could make it worse. Is it difficult to remove the action from the stock or is it best to leave it in place. Stripping my Eibar was a piece of cake - perhaps speak to your local Gunsmith for reassurance Basically it was - remove the two screws for the trigger guard unscrew the trigger guard Unscrew bolt at base of action Move top lever and remove that screw Job done. Just be sure not to touch the trigger or let off the mechanism if you're only doing the stock. Regrease and reassemble in the same manner. This is, of course, only as per my eibar but I gather most boxlocks are the same or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennyblanco Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I found a value set of wire brushes for sale in a diy shop which included some very stiff nylon brushes, they worked excellently for clearing the chequering. It is a long process to do right-but you get a lovely gun at the end so take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerdeor Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I found a value set of wire brushes for sale in a diy shop which included some very stiff nylon brushes, they worked excellently for clearing the chequering.It is a long process to do right-but you get a lovely gun at the end so take your time. I found the best thing for the chequering was the brass suede type brushes for shoes stiff enough to get in there but soft enough not to scratch the stock atb Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toombsy Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 Quick update... After a lot of heave ho and a squirt of WD40 to unscrew the main action bolt, the walnut's now stripped of all it's metal and it's ready to start removing the top coat of varnish. Now to dab on the Nitromors. Looking forward to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveB916 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 Take your time and make sure you get ALL the old finish off..... Dave B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toombsy Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) It's done Removing the old varnish was a doddle, the wood's been sanded, wiped down with a soft cloth and a little white spirit and the first coat of oil's been rubbed in. Another coat will go on tomorrow as the first has soaked in lovely. It looks amazing - like it's just come off the shelves. Well pleased. It's a lot easier than I though... thinking about stripping down the T-Bolt rifle and doing that too. Not sure yet Edited December 18, 2009 by Toombsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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