Klunk

A lot of people seem to put them in a low oven for an hour or so after cleaning, to make certain they're completely bone dry, Silhouette. Another handy tip, which some may be interested in, is to soak them in vinegar. Here's some I've just done as an experiment (if the piccy works). The one one the left is what I started with - fairly grotty early 90's .308. The middle one has just been soaked in cider vinegar for around half an hour. The one on the right was cleaned manually with a paste made of vinegar and salt (the housewive's favourite doorknob cleaner). It's not a great photo, I know, but I can see no difference between the one cleaned by hand and the other which was just soaked without any mechanical cleaning. Looks like vinegar might be a cheap way to go, at last for some.

In light of SF's comment, I've reread mine, and can see how that could be misinterpreted. What I perhaps should have written is that it makes no difference to accuracy to have sparkling brass. SF is quite right to highlight that a case needs to be free of debris that could cause damage to reloading gear, or more importantly if it's in the case itself potentially unsafe high pressures due to reduced case volume. ALL cases, polished or not, should be inspected for damage prior to loading. There's a section on polishing here (klicky) which makes a reasonable argument for not using a tumbler, but just cleaning the inside of the neck with a Q-tip. I reckon you can get a lot of lug-'ole cleaners for the price of a tumbler and media. Yyyup! Klunk out.

By a stroke of unbelievable (yet honestly true) coincidence, my next door neighbour is looking to sell his old target rifles. I don't know all the ins and outs, but I know he has a BSA martini action mark 5 international .22, an old 1903 Winchester semi-auto .22 which if I had a slot for I would buy myself, a Parker Hale (I'm pretty sure) 7.62 target rifle, which I'm told has been rebarrelled around 500 rounds ago, and an Enfield SMLE which was sleeved to 7.62 and stocked by Fultons (Bisley gunsmith chappies). All this stuff has been in his cabinet unused for years, hence reason for sale is precisely because he's not using them. I'm afraid I don't know a great deal more than that, but I can tell you he does look after his guns very well. He's looking for offers, so if you're interested I can put the two of you in touch. He's not on the internet as far as I know, but I'd be happy to hook the two of you up if interested. Worth a chat, I would suggest.

I've recently reloaded a few once-fired .308 PPU cases. They seemed OK, if a bit hard to get primers into. Cases all seemed OK, no sign of excessive neck stretching or incipient head separation etc., although I suppose that's not a surprise after just one firing. Note, I haven't actually shot them yet, and it'll probably be a while before I can, but I will report problems back on here if any arise. I have heard of others getting good results with them, though that's hearsay.

Neither. Doesn't make a jot of difference if your cases aren't sparkling. I wouldn't waste money on polishing stuff just yet. IMHO you're better off spending the dosh on other things.

Glad to hear that, Provarmint, 'cos I just bought some at the weekend. I found them hard to seat as well in PPU brass, but went into Lapua OK. Haven't shot them yet, so we'll see how they do... Thanks for the feedback, chaps.

I second that. For the money, those Lee kits seem a very good way to get going with reloading. The breech lock challenger works well for me, 'cos it has a sort of quick release mechanism which allows you to swap dies in and out without ever needing to readjust them once you've set them how you want them. In addition to what's in the kit, you'll need a case length gauge and lock stud to trim your used cases to length, and I'd also recommend you get yourself at least one good reloading manual. The Lee 'Modern Reloading' is a bit like an advert for Lee kit some of the time, but the information it contains provides a good overview of what's involved, presented in a clear and understandable fashion. Henry Krank's seems to be about as cheap as anywhere I've found for this stuff, and they'll also probably have any other stuff you may need. I've bought stuff from Midway UK in the past and it always takes ages to arrive, 'cos it all ships from the US. Tim Hannam's also seem to have a good selection of kit, but I've never used 'em, so don't know what they're like. Other suppliers also available, of course. Klunk out.

Anybody ever used primers from Murom before, and if so how did you get on with them? Any performance difference between these and your usual brand of primer?

Definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, definately, Defender. Ohyezz! Klunk out.

Enjoy, DF! :good:

Thanks folks!

As above, I'm looking for your opinions and views as to which one of the confusing array of cleaning fluids is best. I'm specifically thinking of rifles, here, using copper jacketed rounds. Ta muchly!

Oh, and your stock and trigger group appears to have dropped off! Klunk out.

That just looks like a bit of flashing that's broken off the receiver casting, if I'm interpreting the picture right. If so, I wouldn't be concerned about that at all. If it is flashing, that's just excess material caused by the casting process that the yanks were too bone idle to remove at the factory,and doesn't even belong there in the first place. All the receiver does, really, is hold the bolt and the breech together, so to speak. The receiver plays no part in gas sealing etc., that's done by obturation (the brass expanding against the inside of the chamber under pressure), so I don't think the gun's about to blow up or anything. Obviously you can see the damage better than we can, but I reckon you'll be alright as you are. Final word has to be, though, if you are in ANY doubt that there may be a safety issue, take it to a gunsmiths. If it's nothing, then you might feel a bit foolish for worrying about nothing, but that's better than what you might feel if there IS a safety issue and you do nothing. Safety first, fun second.

Blimey! They're a bit on the pricey side to be jacking it in just out of warranty. I thought RCBS was supposed to be quality kit. Hope you get it sorted, mate.

The 10/22 is the VW Golf* of guns. There's loads out there, for one good simple reason - because they're good enough for most people. Some like to keep 'em standard, others prefer to customise, but that's just a matter of personal taste. I realise this post isn't going to help anyone make an informed choice between a 10/22 or anything else, but there we are. I like mine. (* Other medium-priced family hatchbacks also available)

An akoya PC, according to website? Am I being blonde?

Dunno if they're any good or not, but Henry Krank's have 'em for less .

Pigs might fly....?

Naarthen! Yoreet?

I reckon the answer's in the question, myself. If you could drop your gun off o the way home, then you should drop your gun off, if only for one reason: Let's say your gun did get half-inched from the car whilst you're in the local, and you ended up having to explain that in court, could you really claim you had taken all reasonable steps to ensure security, if you could have dropped it off at home first? I dunno...

If it's in a state ready to be loaded into a gun and fired, that is to say the brass case has a primer inserted, there's a charge of powder in it and there's a bullet (don't know where 'head' comes from - the thing that flies out of the front of gun on firing is called a 'bullet')jammed in the front of it, it is a round of ammunition and counts towards your allocation. Until it's all put together, it's just components, and doesn't count towards you allocation. <dons tin hat>

Here you go: http://www.happyvalleyclays.co.uk/ It's a bit of a drive for you, but as the name suggests, they're a friendly mob. 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month. First clay at 10:00, last at 13:00. They have dedicated stand for practice clays, which sounds like just the job? Give 'em a call if you feel you need to arrange tuition and whatnot.

Welcome Gix! My advice would simply be to be frank, honest, open and friendly with your FEO, and don't even think about bullsh1tting him or her. If there's anything you're not sure about, ask. They are simply there to establish whether or not you present a danger either to yourself or others by owning a shotgun, discuss your security arrangeents, and also to answer any questions you may have. I'd (almost ) bet you a tenner they shoot themselves in some form. Most will know as much as anyone on here, in fact, who knows, I suspect there might be one or two who are members on here! My FEO at interview was a fountain of knowledge and good advice, and I was glad I'd had the chat with him.

I don't know the falconet specifically, but a good friend of mine's just approached dealer with his approximately 30 year old Franchi O/U s/t game gun, as it happens, looking to p/ex it. Was offered somewhere £350-450 depending on what the p/ex was against. Note this is part exchange, not sale price, and this gun is in unusually good condition for it's age. I hope this is at least of some use to you.