Agent36

HW862, I agree with you about the pole!! I would be good to get feedback on what people want. I think alot of people would rather have a low cost product rather than a medium priced one (i could be wrong). I try to build controllers at low cost without risking the reliability by cutting corners. I did think about using a microprocessor with a hall effect sensor and controlling the current in software. Just not got round to it yet. Like you said the way I have designed the protection is just one way to skin a cat. The speed of the magnet is down to the conditions in the field on the day, slowing it down or speeding it up makes all the difference. Some decoy types wont work unless the speed is correct, having a controller that allows the user to control the full range of speed without disconnecting and reconnecting reduces the chances of pulling connectors off. Another common problem with pigeon shooting electronics. I have tried to reduce that by soldering the connections. I have learnt that nothing is pigeon shooter proof..lol Regards Agent36

Hi HW682, You know what some people are like, they would complain it did not operate at full speed. I had that sort of problem when I built some random timers about 5 years ago using a transistor rather than a fet! I was thinking of trying a thermal fuse in series with the diode, so nothing blows in that situation, what you think?. I did try a thermal fuse to protect the whole circuit, but the trip time was not fast enough to prevent damage to the fet, so went back to the good old fuse. I am glad there is another lecky on the forum! regards Agent36

Hi, If you put a diode in series with the motor, then the motor will only get 11.3 volts. Assuming the battery is at 12volts and the voltage drop across the diode is 0.7 volts which is common for most power diodes. The way I have designed my circuit is such that in normal operation the full 12volts goes to the motor, if you connect the battery the wrong way round a reversed power diode in parallel with the fuse and battery passes the reversed voltage blowing the fuse protecting the rest of the circuit. If the current exceeds the fuse rating in normal operation, it will also blow protecting the circuit. Sorry for the technical jargon for those normal people. regards Agent36

Hi, If you PM me, I could help you out with your problem....I design and build this sort of stuff. The speed controller I do at the moment prevents you making the mistake you made by cross connecting at the battery. If you did cross connect then only the fuse will blow, protecting the circuit. regards Agent36

I'm NOT having ago at your product!!!!! I am simply saying that in VERY HIGH winds I found a solution to a problem that I had with my hyper flaps! Apart from that I think they are a very good replacement for real pigeons......I dont see why forum members should get moaned at because a certain company likes to try every cheap trick to dis-credit the competition, when a forum member is trying to offer a tip to a fellow member who has a problem with said bit of kit!! As for the decoys with spinning wings in modest winds by their design they INCREASE the battery drain and start slowing my magnet down. I have also had to loctite the screw theads that secure the wings, as the vibration works them loose!! As to them copying your ideas/products, did you know this is the biggest form of flattery!!......I'll get off my soapbox now!!!!! regards Agent36

Whats wrong with enhancing a GOOD product with a simple modification? .....Agent36

Hi, If you want to use them in strong winds, heres how. Go to your local model shop, buy some 3 or 4 mm diammeter carbon fiber rod. I think mine was about £4 for a 3ft length. Cut two bits slightly shorter than the ones that come with with the hyper flappers. Then fit them carefully. Job done! I also store the other wing rods in a peice of rigid plasitic tubing, this allows you to take them out in the field without damaging them and there always to hand for changing wind conditions. hope this helps regards Agent36

Hi, I have converted one of my speed controllers for lamp dimming. Someone wanted a batch making that would handle 100 watts. The solution was simple add a larger heat sink to the mosfet to disipate the heat quicker. 100 watts at 12 volts is about 8amps. Any Pulse width modulation circuit will work as a dimmer. This type of control switches the 12volts on and off very quickly many times a second. The load e.g lamp or motor will see an average voltage. regards Agent36 Edit; The above is the most efficent way of controlling the load, very little energy (battery power) is wasted as heat, when compared to large resistor packs found in car electrics.

I think there is a club at lakenheath (nr mildenhall). Not been there but heard its good.. Agent36

Hi, Welcome!! Try Brampton (nr Huntingdon) shoots twice a month. Or Sporting targets at Risely Beds. Open all week, more targets than you can shake a stick at. If you need more info pm me and i'll try and help. regards Agent36

Hi, I've had a escort semi for about 5 years, no problems yet!! YOU need to CLEAN all semi's REGULARY to ensure they dont jam. Who can argue with a three year warranty? The only thing that needed replacing on it was the o-ring in the gas parts, but thats it! I have used 24g right upto BB's no problem. I have it in synthetic for the same reason as most others, it is a working gun that I can enjoy using in the field and not worry about scratches etc. I now use mine for clays as well now, due to the fact that I am kind of "in tune" with it! (At sporting targets) I ignore the looks from others that think it is a bag of rubbish, as they have an expensive gun but low scores, I KNOW what i'd rather have. I think I paid £250 for it. My mate who is an ex RAF sporting Champ saw mine and was that impressed he got one, and now uses it when out in the field. I hope this helps, Agent36

Hi, I found this on the net; www.varmintal.com/17hmr.htm#CZa I thought it might be of use to other forum members, as it gives a pretty good idea of the charateristics and performance of the HMR rifle and ammo. It has the ballistic flight path info of the .17 Hornady round and the CCI round, as well as wind deflection charts out to 200+ yrds. It also highlights how different ammo of the same caliber behaves when it hits the target/quarry. I hope it helps. Agent36 Sorry if this has been mentioned on the forum before!

Hi, Just checked the fleabay, this item "****************" is being listed by a topbayer, who runs a good online website. ***************************** (and remove the two letter word) you will have a good idea of his website. I use this netting all the time, I have tyrapped it to the poles giving a 1m square hide that sets up in seconds. I also have a second non stealth net, that I use as a dark backdrop if I setup in the open without a dark background. If you setup infront of greenery you become invisable with it. Just watchout for sunlight shining through showing your outline. Hope this helps, Agent

Hi Hitfreshairagain, The 12Ah is the capacity of the battery. Like the size of your cars fuel tank. As long as its 12volt is does not matter what Ah you have. The larger the Ah the longer the battery will last and the heavier it will be. When choosing a battery you should compare the weight against how long you want it to last for. If you want to work out roughly how long your battery will last on your magnet do the following. 1) Measure the current being drawn by you motor using a multimeter.( A typical car wiper motor draws about 1.5 amps depending on load). Remember to put the arms and decoys on. 2) Divide the 12Ah by the motor current, measured in step one. 12Ah / 1.5A = 8 hours If your interested Ah stands for Amps per Hour, this how many amps the battery can supply at 12volts for one hour. I hope this helps, regards Agent.

Hi, Try ringing HARLOW SPRINGS on 01279 429004. I use to get loads from them about 5 years ago £2.50 for a 6mm 6ft length. Also get the 4mm stuff for the wing spreaders if possible. I have welded the stuff loads with out any probs, using a mig welder. I have a few bouncers made from the stuff aswell as magnet arms. hope this Helps Agent36

Hi, I have a 1999 XEDI Freelander with General Grabber AT2 tyres, I have not got stuck in it yet. My wife uses it for work and I take it when shooting. I can fit all the gear I need in the back no prob. I can even fit my promatic superhawk and clays in the back when diy clay shooting. I would not go for the petrol one unless you know the history due to head problems. If I go lamping I take the sunroof out with the passenger seat fully forward. This allows some one to stand up with a secure base for mobile shooting. I hope this helps!!! Agent36

Hi Micky. Looking at the spec of the I/R light in your link the IR wave length is 850nm, if you can find out from the user guide you got with the scope what its IR wave length is you should be able to determine if it is compatable. If its not in there then a quick phone call to the maker if poss should do it. hope this helps Agent.

Hi cranfied Glad our telephone conversation was on the right track regarding the fault with your magnet (see my post above). Can you let me have some more details ref the broken fuse, so I can look out for the problem in the future. All my units are tested before sending them out to ensure 100% satisfaction. kind regards

Hi Cranfield, I think it could be a dirty contact, i.e the on/off switch or even dirty brushes on the motor causing the problem (acting like a resistor). There might be enough voltage when directly connected to the battery for it to operate ok. But when the speed controller is added the power switching transistor is another point in the circuit that can act as a resistor and therefore dropping some of the battery voltage. The points highlighted can be checked with a multimeter, the brushes can be cleaned either with an electrical contact cleaning solvent or if possible dismatel the motor and gently clean the brushes with some emery cloth or sandpaper. (remember to blow the dust out before reassembling). I hope this helps. Agent36

How to calculate how long your magnet will run for on your battery. 1) Measure the current draw of your motor. (most wiper motor magnets run at about 1.5 Amps depending on load) 2) Find the Amp Hour Value on your battery e.g 7AH 3) Divide the Battery Value (7AH) by the current the motor is drawing. 7AH / 1.5A = 4.6 hours Hope this helps....

If you have standard decoys that are not flocked, but want that effect for free!! Put a wire brush wheel on your drill and go over the decoys with it to give the flocked effect. It takes a little while but the effect is good. I make my decoy patterns with a mixture of flocked decoys and wire brushed decoys and they work well (no shine). Just take care with the drill cos flocked hands hurt!! Put a pair a pair of gloves on! Repaint the while neck and wing bars with matt white under coat. Regards

Hi, I have had a lightweight magnet from shootwarehouse for about 4 years, still going strong!! I found the finish a bit shiney so painted it in matt green pain. The only thing I can think of that went wrong was the tiny screws in the aliminium motor housing that hold it togeather, one of em fell out. So I found a screw of the same diameter and thread pitch and superglued it in. Thats it, TOP BIT OF KIT...WORTH THE MONEY for the weight saving. It draws about 750mA when loaded so a 7amp hour battery lasts about 9 hours. Hope this helps.