pigglet

I found the MSA's were the only ones that I could wear comfortably without them fouling the combe du to them being slimmer than the others. They are basically mil spec so very tough too. Another bonus is that on the highest volume setting it's like having bionic ears and you can hear birds and beaters a long time before the MK1 lug picks them up

Keeeerrching! Nice work

Have a look on WhithamSV's site. Loads of off-road capable troop carriers such as bedfords and daf's cheap as chips

Ah, your further up the dale than I ws thinking. Is there a chap called Robert C on your shoot? Haway then, where does the "lotto shoot" come from? If it's because you need a lotto win to afford it then it's deffinitely not us, that'd be Urra estate on tother side of the road.

Can't be far from us then, we're in chopgate shooting the east side of the valley from seavegreen to the outskirts of the village

Ola :blink: Hawnby as in Snilesworth/Arden hall locality??? If so I'm just down the road and freqent your neck of the woods for pooch mooching and mountain biking:)

If you roll your own at min loads they're a different animal. I've not long had mine and 130g sp's at min loads so around 2700fps are not too punchy at all. Stoke em up to max load and it's a different story though

The rifling is measured in number of inches for 1 full rotation ie 1in10 (the bullet will complete 1 revolution in 10") What matters is the correct twist rate to stabilise the bullet. For hunting puproses, the optimum length of the barrel is that in which it takes for all the powder in the cartridge to be burnt. When using subs thats around 12-14". After this the bullet is starting to slow down due to the drag in the barrel. 14" is a stadard .22LR factory carbine length. Some shooters in the US report better results with 12". http://www.kifaruforums.net/archive/index.php/t-6867.html I've got a Franchi Fast. I thinks it's a great gun, especially for the money. GMK are the importers give them a ring to see if it's available inFAC spec if you're interested.

Oh go on then. I'll take this as per phonecall to the vendor.

1 pair of Hoggs Bowmore Teflon treated Tweed breeks. Size 32". Bought at the end of last season, never worn and now don't fit SOLD 1 Akubra Coober Pedy hat, size 56 bought from elms of burford at the midland and worn for about 20 minutes. As daft as it sounds after a pretty severe haircut (from Neil the hippy to a more respectable crew cut) it no longer fits and I need the next size down It came straight out of stock so hasn't even been sat in the shop being fondled or tried on and is as new. £75 including postage which will involve carefully packaging in a large box. http://www.elmofburford.com/index.asp?sele...mp;InBox=Akubra

I'm sure I remember reading an article about PMII's being badly effected by temperature deviation and that a number of them had been returned to S&B for that reason?? Can't remember the circumstances or temperature ranges though.

I use macwets in the autumn then when it's really cold or wet use seal skins. The seal skins are the only gloves I've found that are totally waterproof yet still retain a decent amount of feel, plus the trigger finger can be folded back. They've made my winter shooting much more comfortable :blink: They are also really grippy in the wet.

I thought you needed a comparator to make any sense of COAL measurements? Especially if loading so close to the lands??? I'd be investing in a comparator and set of callipers so you know where your bullet is in relation to the lands. Also, how do you check the ammo you've just loaded is the length you intended and that the die hasn't moved without the above bits of kit?

If it looks like that and the top turret is held on by 2 screws then the whole top turret should turn and click as it goes.

After trying tru oil, linseed oil, CCL and a couple of home made recipe's I'v found The napier london oil the best by a long way. Easy to use than any of the others and has given me much better results. My last stock finished with napier Before After The stock hasn't been stained, just grain sealed and then had about 10 coats of oil.

Have a look at these http://www.thirdeyetactical.com/

It could be to do with gunfit. There are 2 things to consider, recoil, ie how much recoil energy a gun produces for a given cartridge adn percieved recoil. How noticeable that recoil is due to gun-fit, mount style recoil reducing pads etc. Forcing cones and chokes can also affect recoil.

Not true. Barrel length has very little effect on pattern and velocity. You lose about 7fps per inch so it can be discounted. What matters more is the balance of the gun and how it swings. A heavy but well balanced gun will mounty and swing easier than a light but poorly balanced gun. Unfortunately as a beginner it's unlikely that you have developed your style. Try as many guns as you can at the clay ground to see which combination feels and works best for you. Untill you gain some experaince and develop your mount you will struggle to identify what realy works for you. Chances are that further down the line you will want to change to something else be it lighter, longer, different combe height etc. I strated out with a 30" browning B425, it was a great gun and I got to the point where I was hitting 90-94% of the clays on my local sporting ground with it but.................... I was less competent with it on live game where a snap shot is required. I now have a 26" sbs that from the firts time I shot with it has given me better results than just about anything else I've used be it on clays or anything else. Comon wisdom says It shouldn't but hey, it works You can shoot clays with a light game gun, just use lighter carts. A lightish 12g will bust clays quite happily with 24g carts, don't be put off by the light load. There is nothing they won't break on my local sporting ground. ExpressHV 24's in No 8 flavour do the biz for me. If you haven't already got yor cabinet, get one at least twice as big as you initially thought. It won't be long before you need the space

Speak to consumer direct as per the link in HDAV's post. They will advise you on EXACTLY where you stand and what you have to do to uphold your end of the legal side of things. They will also take the case forward to trading standards on your behalf should things go that far. I have unfortunately had course to use them in the past and found that simply mentioning they are involved seemed to speed things up. As said everything must be done in writing via recorded delivery. Telphone calls count for nothing from a legal point of view.

If it has a pistol grip and a beaver tail (wide) foreend then it could be a No3 magnum.

No Worries

I'm after a front rest, omething like the cladwell BR or rock and a protektor rear bag if anyone has anything they wish to part with

Whats the greener? Could you send me some pics and the serial number? Cheers

Standard LOP ona B425 I'm pretty sure is 15". Mine was anyway. Get yourself a copy of Mike ***********s book on gunfitting. It'll help you understand about how different adjustments affect the fit and mount and also goes into good shooting technique. It will help you make up your own mind about what you want and give you a good idea if the "proffesional" your speaking to actually knows what they are talking about.

There are a few supposed performance advantages, mainly that the longer choke should throw a better pattern, the ported versions are supposed to help reduce muzzle flip and also aid stripping of the fibre wad fromt he shot. From a pracrical point of view if you shoot sporting then skeet you can quicky unscrew and swap your chokes on the ground without any faffing with tools. I had a sporter with flush fit teague chokes and as I always used the same chokes and never removed them, they got stuck stuck fast. had they been extended they would of been easier to remove and I would of probably fiddled with them on a more regular basis. I'm going to get an extended choke for my auto but for none of the above reasons, simply to protect the end of the barrel as it's a rough and hide gun.