Chaz25

First thing is to start using it! Get some good oil on the action and some stock wax in the wood, I don't know who could restore it but I'm sure it would cost a lot.

Don't they own BSA? Well I have had there kit from late 70's to modern, I think pretty good barrels and internals, cheap in the trigger systems, so not so refined, and lots of plastic but they work well enough.

Any of the low end Gamo's are good

Quite so! the H&N f&t's work well and my stealth likes them to.

10m the next group was better again so its bedding in very well

Yeh you have to work quick! or use a heat sink to not over temper the steel.

Very slick! good work! do you close up the last coil with heat?

I was thinking are they protesting the extinction of idiots? because as long as there is a breathing human couple on earth there will be a fair chance of more mentally inept beings spreading over the globe.

I'm not nor have been convinced by the rhetoric, but these idiots have been, humans the smartest idiots on the planet.

Back together! Now down to the fine tune of the spring pre-load and the trigger plus a few more little things, so the run down on the work would be this; Barrel cut and crowned at 10inc BSA barrel weight fitter giving a 11.5 OA barrel New piston seal (and all sharp edges removed on cylinder) Titan spring and guide (guide is damaged at the back so a bit more work here!) 5mm transfer enforced main stock screw stock repaired for front guard screw fitment Over all I'm pleased, the balance is more to my liking the recoil I'm still working on and the gun shoots fairly well.

Having had a first nation step father we lived mostly by fishing and some hunting, this was a good 6-7 years of my child hood life living in this manner, killing is grim but so is hunger, we kill clean as we can because we are emotive creatures, nature is brutal we choose to be mainly less so, for me its a good shot and good eating, only in a society of ease do people start to debate the nature of such things.

Funny thing about the transfer port, my mates lighting GRT and my super both had the same port size so from 177 to 22 they make no changes, with the .25 and short barrel I wanted a more rapid energy dump and bleed down so I opened up the port size.

There done on tapered mandrels by gamo I suspect, the twist rate would be the standard 1 in 16 so I have a full half turn and a slight taper at 10inch and from my tests the groups look fair, and with it being .25 the useful range will be short, anyhow so far so good!...........

Accuracy with spring guns as with them all comes from quite a few factors, you would want the power plant to be consistent so when tuning I try to keep it dry or use a very non energetic lube so there is little fuel burn, next is good seals and then the barrel if its as I have done and cut an crowned there is always a chance you have gone too far, so the best you can do is make the crowning good as possible, and do this first so you can see if its working or not, then the transfer port, if all looks to be working as you wanted then you can trim it with the spring pre-load and at last a good energetic lube and it go's without saying same good quality pellet through out your testing. Ho bit of an update! just striped it down and broke all the sharp edges with a file and paper, and making a long shafted cutting stone so I can chamfer the transfer port from the piston side.

I have an old tin of .25 rhino's they seem to fall through most of my barrels ......must have shrunk with age

Very hard cutting from the breach with a lot of spring guns, with the brake type you have the pivot block, in some older guns it was cross pinned or press fit and with the BSA there wielded I've only done three carbines with all I had to just cut an crown, but ask Tony anyhow, the thing I would like to know is when BSA do factory carbine barrels do they change the rifling twist rate and what is it?

Is there not a saying when hunting "always take the easy shot" thing is with that, we all have differing Idea's and skills which makes the term "easy" very broad.

Fine shot!, air guns have gone down there own path in tech and engineering and are very potent for what they are, I love that in a pocket you could carry 500 to a 1000 rounds with easy Try that with a powder burner!

A bit of progress, Front guard screw had striped out the stock so made a repair plus you can see the main stock screw hole I closed up with a leather bush. I now have a barrel weight, and new trigger group, the old one was fine but the end cap was a bit rough and the anti bear trap components no longer present, the new one was very cheap so made sense to buy the whole thing, there is also a new seal to fit and next to it a little unit I made for cutting the transfer port, it keeps the bit true and you can cut by hand , plus I'm using a longer main stock screw.

Yes Somerset

only used an ox spring once, it made the gun harsh then broke! a good tuning kit would give you what you want.

Though I would run a pellet up the bore an gauge the effect, once the pellet is imprinted the stiction feels about the same all the way through and the pellet makes a full half rotation and at 10m I can keep my shots within a 50 pence piece so for a gun not truly bedded I'll take that as good.

Arron you got me thinking about the way BSA do there barrels there cold hammed on tapered mandrels so that would have a choke effect but I guess the taper runs from breach to muzzle? so at a 10 inc cut an crown a slight choke would still be present?

no worry's dude! I got your meaning ! Yeh you know you got to love the look and handling of a carbine, cocking however not so easy, but I've been shopping so that will be sorted soon!

No choke as far as I know on these type of BSA barrels and it shoots fine so I guess that proves it!