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RC Helicopters


Fuji Shooter
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I have been flying on a simulator for a few weeks now and slowly getting the hang of it. Can't believe how difficult it is. :unsure:

 

What would be a good starter heli for a newbie to have a go with/easy to repair after I prang it!

I used to play around with the simulator but found it too difficult. I have flown real aeroplanes in the past but the helicopter is a different beast.

 

Phil

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Yes I fly them,

 

In my opinion the best one to learn on is a 30 size machine, something like the Thunder Tiger Raptor or equivalent. It doesn't really matter what one you go for these days as they are all good the most important thing is you buy one that has been around a while and will continue to be around so you can buy spare parts as I can garantee you will need them.

 

Go for a basic model to start with and don't be sucked in to buy a 3D or competition model as they are designed for people who can fly and although can be tamed you don't need the features that they have.

 

Most basic models like the Raptor can be upgraded as you improve and can be turned from a training machine to a full blown aerobatic capable machine.

 

I also fly planes and am a qualified BMFA instructor and Examiner. Any help you need just ask.

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Thanks MC - I had been looking at the Trex500, can't belive how much you can spend on this hobby.

 

Not sure when I will be brave enough to move from the sim to a real one. still have moments when I am not even sure which way the damn thing is going!

 

The T Rex has been around a while so you probably can't go wrong. I have no experience of one so can't really comment.

 

The thing to remember with a simulator is you do not really get the correct view and field of vision and learning to hover is the most important thing. That way whatever you do and get wrong you can put the model in a hover so you can sort yourself out.

 

If you fancy a drive down to me at any point I will take you out on a buddy lead and you can have a go.

 

My advice would be to find a local heli club and join them, they will give you all the advice you need.

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They are very difficult to fly even more so than the real thing :unsure:

 

You have: Collective (up and down) Cyclic (side to side / forward backward), throttle (part of the collective and needs to be adjusted according to how much collective pitch you introduce) and anti torque pedals (adjusts the blade pitch of the rear tail rotor which swings the back end left/right and trimming during flight) not sure if anti torque is used in RC helicopters :blush: I think they use a stabilizer to counteract the toque of the main rotor. So as you can see your going to be busy!

 

Start with a cheap plastic one first rather than going straight into the expensive kit and be prepared to smash a few up :angry:

Edited by agusta
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They are very difficult to fly even more so than the real thing :unsure:

 

You have: Collective (up and down) Cyclic (side to side / forward backward), throttle (part of the collective and needs to be adjusted according to how much collective pitch you introduce) and anti torque pedals (adjusts the blade pitch of the rear tail rotor which swings the back end left/right or trimming during flight) not sure if anti torque is used in RC helicopters :angry: I think they use a stabilizer to counteract the toque of the main rotor. So as you can see your going to be busy!

 

Start with a cheap plastic one first rather than going straight into the expensive kit.

 

Yes you do have anti torque in the form of an on board gyro that sense any rotation and applies the correct amount of tail rotor pitch. The flybar on the main rotor is to dampen the effects of the cyclic controls and make the model more flyable, the ammount of damping can be altered to tailor the model to the individuals flying style.

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Yes I fly them,

 

In my opinion the best one to learn on is a 30 size machine, something like the Thunder Tiger Raptor or equivalent. It doesn't really matter what one you go for these days as they are all good the most important thing is you buy one that has been around a while and will continue to be around so you can buy spare parts as I can garantee you will need them.

 

Go for a basic model to start with and don't be sucked in to buy a 3D or competition model as they are designed for people who can fly and although can be tamed you don't need the features that they have.

 

Most basic models like the Raptor can be upgraded as you improve and can be turned from a training machine to a full blown aerobatic capable machine.

 

I also fly planes and am a qualified BMFA instructor and Examiner. Any help you need just ask.

 

 

 

spot on raptor 30 is the dangles i its easy to fly cheap to repair look out for a V2 version as there getting on a bit so there are more spairs should you need them...i started with a trex 450 ignoring all the advice them i got hold of a raptor 30 v2 and the trex got shelved i tought my self to fly simple circuits in YEAR.....................AND HAND ON HEART NOT ONE CRASH...............I had been close but never stuck it in......................

 

here is a vid with the trex and raptor its a bit long winded

above all listen to others dont jump in the rex is good...but and old raptor set up right will have you in a hover in no time and it will take you some time to out fly the basic heli's you dont need FLASH gear to get going

Edited by BSA-airgunner
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:unsure:

 

There you go, The Raptor V2 is what you need with a .30 size engine. Don't go down the eletric route initially and as BSA says a well set up Raptor with have you hovering within a gallon of fuel.

 

Mine will almost hover itself but you still need to know what you are doing.

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Thanks everyone, Ill take a walk over to the model club at Long Marsden Airfield on Sunday after shooting and see if I can join them.

 

I try and practice for an hour a day at night but the most annoying thing is when your 11 year old puts down his XBox controller walks over to my transmitter, takes off, hovers inverted, barrrel rolls and lands it perfectly. Gives me transmitter back and say "boring" then goes back to he XBox - kids are so bloody annoying! they can do everything

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Another vote for the Raptor 30 V2 here.

 

The parts are cheap and readily available, also about 90% of the parts are the same as the Raptor 50 if you decide to upgrade in the future.

 

I haven't been out for a few years after a car accident then a couple of bike accidents but must get back out this year.

 

I have a Raptor 30 V2, Raptor 50 V2, Hirobo Sceadu 50 CCPM and a very worn out Hirobo Shuttle Z.

 

The thing with the simulator it it doesn't have the ring puckering ability the real thing does. I would advise that you buy a training undercarriage as that will cushion the landing and reduce the risk of a boom strike or a sideways tip over. Just take it easy, learn to hover then as you move forward if you get into a situation you don't like just bang it straight back tail in to you and hover.

 

The offer of flying on a buddy box is a great way of learning.

 

The first achievement will be when it follows you rather than you following it round the field.

 

Get someone who knows what they are doing to set it up for you so it's not super edgy and responsive at first, also try to keep the negative blade pitch to a minimum so you don't slam it into the floor if you kill the throttle. You just need enough to be able to bring it down if there is a bit of a breeze as you will get transitional lift from that.

 

Always make sure to perform the function checks and radio tests before every session and ALWAYS make sure you have hold of the rotor head when you start the heli, if there is a fault or the throttle goes fully open you may burn the clutch out but it's a damn site safer than an out of control model. Give it the same respect as a gun and you won't go far wrong.

 

Have fun and stay safe!

 

Jon.

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I had a raptor 30 when i was out in the middle east. I built some training undercarriage out of two pieces of wooden dowl longer than the rotorspan, then attached training golf balls to each end and cable tied the lot to the skids. This helped keep it upright as I learnt to hover the thing, without smashing the blade tips to pieces.

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I do fly an Rc heli but much prefare fixed wing and building scale models, my heli is an old excel 30 that I get out every now and then (mainly to annoy my next door neighbour but thats anothet story) to me flying a heli is easy enough once you know what the effect of the stick movements is but the hard part is setting a heli up thats where the time and effort is needed.

 

KW

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A good indoor heli is the E-Flite MCX, or MSR... these will get you off the ground and hovering, but also they are a great help with practicing side/nose in hovering and on a dead calm day they are fun to fly outdoors - more so the MSR, and you can get away with some pretty big crash's :unsure:

I also have a Blade 400 3D, and a JR Vigor 90 CCPM :unsure:

Edited by Tony9r
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They are very difficult to fly even more so than the real thing :unsure:

 

You have: Collective (up and down) Cyclic (side to side / forward backward), throttle (part of the collective and needs to be adjusted according to how much collective pitch you introduce) and anti torque pedals (adjusts the blade pitch of the rear tail rotor which swings the back end left/right and trimming during flight) not sure if anti torque is used in RC helicopters :blink: I think they use a stabilizer to counteract the toque of the main rotor. So as you can see your going to be busy!

 

Start with a cheap plastic one first rather than going straight into the expensive kit and be prepared to smash a few up :unsure:

 

Heli transmitters have an adjustable tail rotor compensation feature working with the throttle/collective stick - as well as the gyro. I have a MK1 Raptor (set up and ready to fly) model only, MDS motor, coreless servo's, heading hold gyro etc that I'd like to swap for a reasonable full bore scope. I have two sets of lit R&D 'laserblades', spare engines and loads of other stuff included.

 

I once let a full size pilot have a go with a 'space baron. He dumped it as soon as it started turning and he applied forwards to get it away from him. In hindsight It was my fault for not taking him under control so to speak.

Edited by Dave-G
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