.22-250

[wildfowler.250]

Not at all mate...

 

I just can't see the sense in a 22CF used for stalking, especially when the chosen 22Cf is noisy and expensive to run compared to it's other non deer legal 22Cf counterparts.

 

A stalking gun, that can only be used on 1 type of Deer.... ?

 

Nothing stranger than folk

 

I'm slightly consused by the noise issue. How can it be louder than say the .243 which uses more powder? It is really a vermin/roe gun than a stalking rifle. I only shoot one place that has reds so the .270 will come out then. It is only more expensive to run when you're reloading. Even factory hornet ammo costs a fortune so they are all very similar :blink:

[Dekers]

I've got to agree with Dougy.

 

Dekers, you can reload the 22-250 to shoot subsonic, if that's what you want. So if you don't want it firing at 4000fps, that can be achieved by altering the powder.

 

 

I don't reload as everyone knows but I took Dougys suggestion to be, avoid speed and therefore wear buy making the things slower. That seemed more than a bit pointless, it is after all a 22-250 !

 

If you are talking versatility, by loading to sub sonic in 22-250 I struggle to see how that can handle the same sort of twist as a round doing circa 4000ft sec.

 

Perhaps I am just getting a bit lost or missing it all.

 

As a generalisation 22-250 is fast, flat shooting and hits hard, that's what it does well, I don't see it having a use for anything else!

 

If you can help me out by expanding a bit on this I'd be interested.

 

Cheers!

[Dekers]

I'm slightly consused by the noise issue. How can it be louder than say the .243 which uses more powder? It is really a vermin/roe gun than a stalking rifle. I only shoot one place that has reds so the .270 will come out then. It is only more expensive to run when you're reloading. Even factory hornet ammo costs a fortune so they are all very similar :blink:

 

 

Powder is only a part of the noise, the sonic boom creates loads of noise and this changes with size, shape and speed, on the whole a 22-250 will be faster than a 243 and hence has the ability to make more noise. I'm not sure why, but it does for sure, perhaps someone could explain this because it's not the first time I have wondered why!

 

Moderators are more than useful on most centrefires and they do take a lot of the propellant crack out, the biggest part of what you tend to hear then is the sonic crack!

[Billy.]

I don't reload as everyone knows but I took Dougys suggestion to be, avoid speed and therefore wear buy making the things slower. That seemed more than a bit pointless, it is after all a 22-250 !

 

If you are talking versatility, by loading to sub sonic in 22-250 I struggle to see how that can handle the same sort of twist as a round doing circa 4000ft sec.

 

Perhaps I am just getting a bit lost or missing it all.

 

As a generalisation 22-250 is fast, flat shooting and hits hard, that's what it does well, I don't see it having a use for anything else!

 

If you can help me out by expanding a bit on this I'd be interested.

 

Cheers!

 

I'm not saying you should load it as a subsonic round, I'm just saying you physically can. Performance can still be achieved at 3500fps and the load/bullet can be altered to achieve this.

 

That Norma round I posted the info on does pretty well over 200 yards and it's flying at 3599fps at 25 yards.

 

 

 

Powder is only a part of the noise, the sonic boom creates loads of noise and this changes with size, shape and speed, on the whole a 22-250 will be faster than a 243 and hence has the ability to make more noise. I'm not sure why, but it does for sure, perhaps someone could explain this because it's not the first time I have wondered why!

 

Moderators are more than useful on most centrefires and they do take a lot of the propellant crack out, the biggest part of what you tend to hear then is the sonic crack!

 

I would be lead to believe that a round breaking into Mach 3 (3080fps) would be another sonic boom to add to the sound, especially when going back through a Mach.

 

Just a thought... But with the fact that sound being a form of energy, you'd think that the more energy being outputted, the louder the bang

Edited January 17, 2011 by Billy.

[jamie g]

i cant really see sub sonic rounds being very accurate in a 22/250. the beeter branded makes of facotry rounds in most gunshops are the same prices for 223 and 22/250.

 

if your worried a bout meat damage then slow the bullets down abit if you reload and use the right bullets for the job. ie'' not bt bullets.

 

who was it tha asked the question of the barrel twist for a tikka m55 in 22/250 ? im sure there 1 in 12 so you could shoot up to 63 grain bullets in it.

where a 1 in 14 your really at 55's max

 

i like the 22/250 and think as a foxer and small deer rifle its fine. as you live in scotland then your fine with it on roe. get one and dont look back

[wildfowler.250]

 

who was it tha asked the question of the barrel twist for a tikka m55 in 22/250 ? im sure there 1 in 12 so you could shoot up to 63 grain bullets in it.

where a 1 in 14 your really at 55's max

 

That's brilliant, thanks

 

The only dilemma now is a good scope for it! S&B variable with a 56 objective? Will defo look for good a good second hand one

[Vermincinerator]

I am on my third 22-250, this time its an improved version.

Accurate enough to make reliable head shots on rabbits past 250yds easily, so no worry about meat damage.

No louder then a 223 and like all C/F rifles barrel wear is down to how it is run.

 

Ian.

[wildfowler.250]

..

Edited January 17, 2011 by CZ452

[wildfowler.250]

I am on my third 22-250, this time its an improved version.

Accurate enough to make reliable head shots on rabbits past 250yds easily, so no worry about meat damage.

No louder then a 223 and like all C/F rifles barrel wear is down to how it is run.

 

Ian.

 

Do you home load? Or use privy ammo?! I think long shots on rabbits would be very satisfying :yp:

[Billy.]

I'm so glad I have a second barrel on the way

[Dougy]

I don't reload as everyone knows but I took Dougys suggestion to be, avoid speed and therefore wear buy making the things slower. That seemed more than a bit pointless, it is after all a 22-250 !

 

If you are talking versatility, by loading to sub sonic in 22-250 I struggle to see how that can handle the same sort of twist as a round doing circa 4000ft sec.

 

Perhaps I am just getting a bit lost or missing it all.

 

As a generalisation 22-250 is fast, flat shooting and hits hard, that's what it does well, I don't see it having a use for anything else!

 

If you can help me out by expanding a bit on this I'd be interested.

 

Cheers!

 

 

Have a search on the internet, i cant explain it any better !!! and i have to go shooting !!!

As you said you dont reload, so i wont expect you to understand re powder burn rates ect.

[Vermincinerator]

Do you home load? Or use privy ammo?! I think long shots on rabbits would be very satisfying :yp:

 

Hi CZ, yes i handload mate, i have not bought a factory round for about 20years ( apart from rimfire)

I am loading 22-250 Improved which has a blown out case and approx. 10% more case capacity.

 

The main advantages of improved cartridges are their ability to shoot hot top end (very high pressure)parent cartridge loads at substantially lower pressure which in turn promotes better barrel life, however most shooters choose improved cartridges for their increased velocity.

 

My rifle is fast approaching 1000 rnd count and it is still as accurate as it was when i fired the initial groups easily holding 3/8" for 5 shots @ 100yds if i do my bit.

I have pushed the envelope with this barrel as well, 4200fps with 52grn A-max's and 4890fps with 36grn Barnes Varmint Grenades in my quest to break 5000fps.

High pressure and blown out primer pockets put a stop to that.

I settled on a load that ran at 3900fps with 52grn A-max's, not superbly accurate but good enough to get me my longest kill with this rifle a crow at 360yds.

 

I have now shortened the barrel from 26" to 20" to make the rifle more handy in the wagon and that has cost me 420fps and a little flatness but its still flat enough to take bunnies out to 230yds with no dialling in.

 

Some time this year i will be rebarreling back to a 26" barrel with a 1:8 twist so i can shoot 75grn A-max's.

 

Ian.

Edited January 18, 2011 by Vermincinerator

[Mr_Logic]

Billy - you get one sonic crack when the round is supersonic, that's your lot. Once it's supersonic you can go as much as you like, no more sonic cracks or anything like that.

 

Come to this a little late. 223 will do everything I need it to do so it doesn't worry me. I can see the point of 22-250 but not unless you're going to run it reasonably hot - the only point is to take a 22 cal bullet and make it go bloody fast.

 

With regard to the 75gr A-max, don't discount a 223 there. My Savage F/TR pushes that at 3075fps and works very nicely at 1000 yards. While 22-250 can do it, if you can find a 1:8 Tikka T3, you can get that A-max to a shade under 3K I expect, and that will do pretty well at some very decent ranges.

 

22-250 is a flat shooting round, but flat shooting != good long range. What you want at long range is good performance in the wind, and a light 22 cal bullet ain't that. The 22-250 would be my choice for a night rifle at decent ranges because the drop is more forgiving, but even then if it was windy I would think twice.

 

In the day it is much easier to do range and wind and dial in a shot, and then I would stick with something heavier and quite possibly slower to keep the wind variation down as low as possible.

[Billy.]

Billy - you get one sonic crack when the round is supersonic, that's your lot. Once it's supersonic you can go as much as you like, no more sonic cracks or anything like that.

 

 

 

Sorry, I had it in my mind that the double boom had something to do with that. My mistake.

[wildfowler.250]

Hi CZ, yes i handload mate, i have not bought a factory round for about 20years ( apart from rimfire)

I am loading 22-250 Improved which has a blown out case and approx. 10% more case capacity.

 

The main advantages of improved cartridges are their ability to shoot hot top end (very high pressure)parent cartridge loads at substantially lower pressure which in turn promotes better barrel life, however most shooters choose improved cartridges for their increased velocity.

 

My rifle is fast approaching 1000 rnd count and it is still as accurate as it was when i fired the initial groups easily holding 3/8" for 5 shots @ 100yds if i do my bit.

I have pushed the envelope with this barrel as well, 4200fps with 52grn A-max's and 4890fps with 36grn Barnes Varmint Grenades in my quest to break 5000fps.

High pressure and blown out primer pockets put a stop to that.

I settled on a load that ran at 3900fps with 52grn A-max's, not superbly accurate but good enough to get me my longest kill with this rifle a crow at 360yds.

 

I have now shortened the barrel from 26" to 20" to make the rifle more handy in the wagon and that has cost me 420fps and a little flatness but its still flat enough to take bunnies out to 230yds with no dialling in.

 

Some time this year i will be rebarreling back to a 26" barrel with a 1:8 twist so i can shoot 75grn A-max's.

Ian.

 

Thanks for the reply I will hopefully get into reloading at some point. Do you need the longer barrel for the 75 grn Amax's? I think that may be a long term plan for my gun as well or maybe a 6mm set up

 

 

Come to this a little late. 223 will do everything I need it to do so it doesn't worry me. I can see the point of 22-250 but not unless you're going to run it reasonably hot - the only point is to take a 22 cal bullet and make it go bloody fast.

 

22-250 is a flat shooting round, but flat shooting != good long range. What you want at long range is good performance in the wind, and a light 22 cal bullet ain't that. The 22-250 would be my choice for a night rifle at decent ranges because the drop is more forgiving, but even then if it was windy I would think twice.

 

In the day it is much easier to do range and wind and dial in a shot, and then I would stick with something heavier and quite possibly slower to keep the wind variation down as low as possible.

 

How hot are the factory rounds loaded,(I'm guessing probably not that bad due to safety/liability reasons)? What sort of weight do you think will give better long range preformance? I think I will primarily be shooting the 55's but possibly 50 grains if they group better.

Being inxperienced at longer shots...is it better to look at a chart..give your scope a few cliks for drop,(and wind), take the shot and then click the scope back to it's origional setting?

 

This sounds like I could also use a range finder

 

 

Thanks again for all the input!

[Vermincinerator]

Hi CZ,

You dont need the extra barrel length to shoot any weight of bullet, as its the twist rate which dictates what weight of bullet you can use.

I am going back to 26" barrel in order to restore decent velocity, i was quite shocked at the veolcity lost by shortening my barrel by 6"

 

Ian.

[Vermincinerator]

There is a huge amount of information on the net about LR varminting and in my opinion dialling in is the only way to accurately place your shot.

Holdover is pure guesswork, aim at nothing and hit nothing!

For guidance a reputable ballistic program will get you near but you cant beat actual drops recorded at different distances, the ballistic program will fill in the gaps, having said that the best ones are good for about an inch of accuracy but you only get out what you put in.

A range finder is a must, without knowing the exact distance you have little or no chance of hitting your target, combine that with accurately chronographed velocities and cross rferenced drops and you are ready to go.

The guy i bought my dies off sent me a photo of a PD he shot at 505yds with his 22-250 whilst on holiday in the US, bullet was a 55grn V-max.

 

Ian.

[wildfowler.250]

Thanks for the info Ian

 

The next purchase is a new scope for the .22-250 What would you recommend? The minimum I was thinking of was a S&B 8x56 but I was thinking maybe a variable by 50 or 56 would be better?

 

Then I either go for a range finder or reloading gear? (in which order?)

 

The chrono comes pretty low down on the list but if I can shoot out to 300/350 on small vermin,(which shouldn't be too difficult?) I will happily take that as a starting point!

 

Thanks again!

[al4x]

how did we go from shooting roe to long range vermin bashing

 

you want a lot more than an 8x56 for shooting small vermin at 300

[Billy.]

Then I either go for a range finder or reloading gear? (in which order?)

 

 

One costs considerably more than the other, but I'd go with reloading gear first.

 

You can just count steps to 'rangefind', but you can't make a round without the right equipment.

[al4x]

there was me thinking the reason for a 22-250 so you didn't need a rangefinder

 

if you're dialling in etc matters not the calibre your .223 will do the same job

[wildfowler.250]

how did we go from shooting roe to long range vermin bashing

 

you want a lot more than an 8x56 for shooting small vermin at 300

 

Roe are vermin,(joke joke :yp:).

 

I was thinking that myself...how much magnification would you suggest?

 

If its a poor days stalking and there is a 'varmint' at 300 yards then it better watch out

 

 

 

Billy, how much is your typical reloading set up,(books included)? It is probably a better idea as they .270 isn't cheap to feed either!!

[Billy.]

 

Billy, how much is your typical reloading set up,(books included)? It is probably a better idea as they .270 isn't cheap to feed either!!

 

I'm only part way there in buying my kit. You're asking the wrong person

Edited January 19, 2011 by Billy.

[al4x]

the biggest issue is having to carry it on a stalking rifle

 

I've recently got a swaro 6-24x50 pv and initial thoughts are its a big improvement on the 8x56 at range

[wildfowler.250]

there was me thinking the reason for a 22-250 so you didn't need a rangefinder

 

if you're dialling in etc matters not the calibre your .223 will do the same job

 

can you use google earth ?