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pigeon street
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I zeroed at 25yards and can shoot flat out to 60yards with cci subs

 

With all due respect, NO you can't, whatever you think you can do you cannot defy the law of physics.

 

With subs the First Zero "May" be around 25 yards with a Zero at 60 yards, but there isn't a hope in hell it is flat between those two points!

 

ATB! :good:

 

PS

....and if your Zero was 25 yards, then at 60 yards you would be at the bottom of a cliff, but it is very likely impossible to achieve a Zero at 25 yards with a .22lr anyway!! :yes::yes:

 

Zero= the point at which the bullet enters the target, on the fall, at the intersection of the cross hairs.

Edited by Dekers
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Hi all,

Question?

for a .22lr for rabbits, What distance would use have as your zero point??? i was thinking around the 75yrd???

 

There is a mass of history on this subject so it may be worth doing a search. Nevertheless, MOST people will zero 50-60 yards with a .22lr and subs, because that tends to suit the ammo and the shooters and quarry.

 

As I always say that doesn't matter a jot. If you only have one permission where you simply wait and ambush your bunnies at 40 yards then zero at 40 yards! Similarly 70 yards, then zero at 70 yards!

 

Zero at the distance that works best for you within the parameters of the calibre/ammo!

 

Whatever the calibre/ammo!

 

:good:

Edited by Dekers
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I have a cz that I have zeroed to 20yds for use on an indoor range, this will also give me a zero of 48yd as the bullet will rise and then fall. This will give you about a third of an inch high at 33yds. I sometimes take it bunny bashing and using a mildot scope on 10x zoom it will give me 75yds at 1 mildot down and 98yds at 2 mildots down. I once headshot a bunny at 130yds with this rifle but I think that was more luck than judgement and I only tried as it is a tack driver. I have a little semi automatic that I usually use for bunnys and that is zeroed to 50 yds and gives me roughly 1 mildot down at 75yds. I won't take bunnys with this at any longer ranges as it is not that accurate after that. Try downloading Hawk BRDC and have a play with it as its free. It will give you an idea but nothing is better than getting experience with your rifle and practising before having a go at live quarry.

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I have a cz that I have FIRST zeroed to 20yds for use on an indoor range, this will also give me a zero :good: of 48yd as the bullet will rise and then fall. This will give you about a third of an inch high at 33yds. I sometimes take it bunny bashing and using a mildot scope on 10x zoom it will give me 75yds at 1 mildot down and 98yds at 2 mildots down. I once headshot a bunny at 130yds with this rifle but I think that was more luck than judgement and I only tried as it is a tack driver. I have a little semi automatic that I usually use for bunnys and that is zeroed to 50 yds and gives me roughly 1 mildot down at 75yds. I won't take bunnys with this at any longer ranges as it is not that accurate after that. Try downloading Hawk BRDC and have a play with it as its free. It will give you an idea but nothing is better than getting experience with your rifle and practising before having a go at live quarry.

 

 

 

:yes::good:

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Your point is?

 

From thefreedictionary.com

 

zeroed past participle, past tense of ze·ro (Verb)

1. Adjust (an instrument) to zero.

2. Set the sights of (a gun) for firing.

 

:good:

 

 

Neither yours, or anyones elses gun, of any type, has 2 zero points, it has a FIRST zero, and a ZERO.

 

ZERO is ALWAYS on the FALL! :good:

 

You set your FIRST Zero at 20 yards, which gives you a ZERO of 48 Yards!

 

:good:

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To be honest the bullet goes where the cross hairs go at 20 yds and 48yds anfd in my book these are both zero's and I'm not really bothered about anything else. I can see why people come on here then get slated then don't bother coming back.

 

Nobody is slating anyone, grow up and learn!

 

Well, you will get very confused when you look at cartridge manufacturers ballistic tables when they talk about zero then, just which one do you think that will be?

 

They are both zeros, simply FIRST ZERO and then ZERO, like it or not it is ******* important when you are shooting, and or discussing bullet/pellet path.

 

ATB!

 

:good::good:

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Dekkers,

I think Mangled99 has a point, I cant find your definition as defined in a dictionary and some balistic programs define zero as the point the bullet first crosses the line of sight. The guy has a point and in manyways its a very good one. Personally i reffer to the primary zero as the one i set up at and the secondary zero as the one that occurs either before or after that. Indeed i think this is common as many set thier rimfires up at 50 and thier centrefires up at 100

 

 

You state catagorically

Zero= the point at which the bullet enters the target, on the fall, at the intersection of the cross hairs.

 

 

 

Who made up as the only one who can be correct, we could do with a few more like Mangled on here :good:

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Dekkers,

I think Mangled99 has a point, I cant find your definition as defined in a dictionary and some balistic programs define zero as the point the bullet first crosses the line of sight. The guy has a point and in manyways its a very good one. Personally i reffer to the primary zero as the one i set up at and the secondary zero as the one that occurs either before or after that. Indeed i think this is common as many set thier rimfires up at 50 and thier centrefires up at 100

 

 

You state catagorically

Zero= the point at which the bullet enters the target, on the fall, at the intersection of the cross hairs.

 

 

 

Who made up as the only one who can be correct, we could do with a few more like Mangled on here :good:

 

 

Ha ha, you have as many zeros as you want if it makes you happy, you are also more than welcome to zero 1" high (above whatever they fancy) as so many seem to like! :lol::lol:

 

Take a look at as many cartridge manufactures ballistic charts as you like and you tell me where the zero is, and which one it is! :lol::lol::good:

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