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Larsen traps


Crow killer
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Beware if you are using a home made larson it has to conform with defra standards also you need a licence of defra to opperate one. so if you are thinking of using a larson trap check with defra first a local chap got fined for using one without a licence £500 but it was home made and marginaly to small so he got fined for that as well.

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I always thought you could use them under an open licence as long as you had a good reason e.g protecting songbirds and there nests.

 

im not really bothered about paying to much for the chicks 100 will last me 2/3 month as i only use them when i run out of rabbit and magpies to feed them and its better than paying 25p each which is my only other option with out traveling to far for them.

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You can use a larsen trap under an open license for a reason as "protecting songbirds " or "wildlife control". Just make sure that the trap confirms to the legal requirements. If anyone complains try and take the time to explain why you are using one. You can buy little notices to put on them from GCT or BASc i think. Also if the R.S.P.C.A. have a report and want to look at it they cannot just walk onto your land, they have no powers of arrest or enforcement.

 

I always find that a nest with eggs in it catches my first bird or if that fails try and get one from a gamekeeper.

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Baby rabbits (still in the pink) work every time.

 

I make all my traps from plans that the Game conservancy sent me.

 

No license to buy!

 

Check the traps at least once every 24 hours.

 

Callbird should have a perch, water and food. Frozen tripe chubs from pet food suppliers is super.

 

Once you have started catching, the callbirds will happily eat the ones you have caught.

 

Keep changing the callbirds for freshly caught ones.

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:ph34r:

Hi every one I dont know if you guys have seen this or yoused this before but i was watching a French shooting chanel on sky .They had a sort of chickin pen with a ladder streched across the top and wire netting fasend to it ! :lol: kind of difficult to explain but it would be real easy to make .what they did was put a dead rabit in side the cage, and when the bird whent in to the cage through the ladder they where traped.Because when the bird tryed to fly up and out through the gap's in the ladder which where smaller than the wing span of the bird's once one was cought it was as simple as keeping enough food in the cage.If it works half as well as it did the day they filmed it it should be a winer :lol: just a thought ? Or is this old hat?

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CK,

 

Don't mess about trying to catch maggies with bait this late in the season - bait is most effective from April through to mid May, you've left it too late.

 

Get in contact with a local Gamekeeper who has a bird to spare, also read the post from RJimmer who knows how to catch them, also a good tip is to raise the trap off the ground abot 2 or 3 feet, then they will land on the top and jump straight in.

 

Good luck.

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Crow Killer, It's getting late in the year to be Larsen trapping but you might still have a chance to do some good. If you haven't been trapping the area this season you will find that a lot of the magpies you are seeing are this years young and should be easier to trap than their parents.

 

As to the best bait to catch your first bird, use whatever the birds in you area are feeding on at this time. Its getting a bit late in the year for eggs to be a major draw. It would be a good idea to pre-bait the area around your trap, just to get the birds used to feeding there. Any carrion would make good bait, even road kill.

 

The catching side of most Larsens are a bit small to easily lure a magpie into without a decoy, so to catch my first bird I use an individual, scaled up, catching compartment which is easy to conceal. Try to hide your trap as much as possible and present a "normal" picture.

 

When you get a decoy bird it is vital that you comply with the terms of the licence. I see so many Larsens with smelly layers of fossilised bodies on the floor and manky green water. Don't forget that the public get everywhere and probably do not understand what we are doing so it is important that we present the right impression. If you feed flesh take the old carcasses out every day and make sure the water is always fresh. As always it will only take a couple of **** Heads to ****** it up for the rest of us. Now that my supply of rabbits and squirrels is slowing up I feed dryed dog food soaked in a little water.

 

As rjimmer said change your decoy bird frequenly to keep it fresh and active.

 

For best results move your trap frequently even a move of a couple of yards will sometimes help.

 

Most importantly, start earlier next year.

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RJ,

 

Never caught a Jay in a Larsen - no reason why they shouldn't go in one, as they are not as smart as a maggie.

 

I have never regarded Jays as being as much of a threat compared to maggies, and they are relatively easy to shoot in Winter when after the acorns.

 

Have caught squirrels, blackbirds, crows, a robin, a partridge, the neighbours cat, and at 5.45am the other morning a youngish fox was doing his utmost to get in the trap....!!!

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CC,

 

Unfortunately, he got away as the trap was in my back garden, and the backdrop, even for an airgun, was unsafe.

 

My neighbours have also recently lost 2 pet rabbits and a couple of chickens - they were completely unaware that Charlie Junior could have been the culprit until I advised them.

 

I am looking to borrow a live catch trap - no doubt RJ will have some ideas on this one, as regards the best one to go for...:lol:

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I am looking to borrow a live catch trap - no doubt RJ will have some ideas on this one, as regards the best one to go for...:lol:

I have caught a fox cub (once) in a larsen trap.

 

Don't forget that you are not allowed to use a live callbird to catch foxes or other animals, but if you were to put the trap just inside a henhouse pophole then I don't see anything wrong in that.

 

If you make a fox trap yourself, remember that you want it strong enough not to be wrecked by a badger if one gets in it.

 

The bigger you make one the better, in my opinion, but I have seen one very effective one that was only 3ft x 1ft x 1ft. A long one with a trap door at each end and the bait in the middle would be the ideal, but expensive. That way, charlie can see an open ended tunnel when he enters.

 

If you use a bait, then you want the trap big enough so that charlie looks for a way in, rather than try to reach the bait from the side.

 

The trap door can be tripped by either a cord attached to the bait or a floor treddle plate.

 

Here are a few links.

http://www.trap-man.com/fox-traps.htm

 

http://www.solwayfeeders.com/ProductsDetai...STOCK_CODE=1318

 

http://www.thezapper.co.uk/acatalog/Pest_C...__Traps__3.html

 

http://www.maxpages.com/bigbagshooters/Foxing

 

http://www.patrickpinker.com/traps.htm

 

http://www.lancenich.f9.co.uk/squirrel%20&...fox%20traps.htm

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