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Claning a Wilcat Predator 8 moderator


pat g
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Ok guys,i'm after a bit of advice here. I have a Wildcat Predator 8 mod on my .243. I've only put 25 rounds through it as i have'nt had a lot of time lately. Basically i've zeroed the rifle in. However i would like to clean and inspect the moderator. I have unscrewed the body to expose the muzzle end that contains the baffles.

My question is this how do i take apart the muzzle end section that contains the baffles.

Thanks in advance for any advice :good:

ATB,

Pat

Edited by pat g
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Ok guys,i'm after a bit of advice here. I have a Wildcat Predator 8 mod on my .243. I've only put 25 rounds through it as i have'nt had a lot of time lately. Basically i've zeroed the rifle in. However i would like to clean and inspect the moderator. I have unscrewed the body to expose the muzzle end that contains the baffles.

My question is this how do i take apart the muzzle end section that contains the baffles.

Thanks in advance for any advice :good:

ATB,

Pat

 

 

Screwdriver shaft or steel rod through the hole at the end of the baffle cone and unscrew! Should be silver, probably black now, also likely to be stiff.

 

Make sure you apply heat resistant lubricant on ALL joints when you put it back together or it will seize up!

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Thanks Dekers, i thought that would be the way to strip it but was'nt sure. I just wanted to make sure before i started.

Is there any lubricant you would advise to use when re-assembling the mod? When i strip and cleam my SAK mods i apply a little Tetra firearm grease to the threads,would the same grease be ok to use on the Wildcat Mod?

Thanks in advance for the reply :good:

ATB,

Pat

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As Dekers says for the muzzled end, Cleaning mine has never changed zero, for instructions on cleaning the rest of the can there are instructions on Wildcats website. I don't clean mine that often, more like 100rnds, find 243 much cleaner than my Rimfires even though its burning loads more powder, thats with Viht160, H414 is dirtier.

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I use Copper Slip on the threads and a tiny bit of silicon on the O-rings, front is always easy to get off but it's a different story for the rest of it!. Best way I've found is to loosen it all at the end of session when it's nice and hot, tried running it under hot water but that didn't work.

 

As for cleaning, a good bath and scrub with a bottle brush in hot soapy water, towel dry then blast with Gun Scrubber, final light coating of gun oil and leave to dry.

 

Never had a problem loosing zero on my .308 and it's on/off the rifle every time I shoot as it doesn't fit in the case with it on.

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I'd be surprised if you don't lose the zero after taking the mod to pieces. If you don't, you're lucky ;)

 

 

Billy, I would have, and did, think absolutely the same as you, fortunately I have been pleasantly surprised. I run the P8 Compact on my .223, .243, .308. Each is stripped and cleaned after every use and I am pleased to say they have never lost zero.

 

Seems quite remarkable really and it took me by surprise, but I'm not complaining!

 

ATB!

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What fluid do you put in your US tank for the baffles?. For brass cases I use a mix of Citric Acid, Water and Birchwood Casey Case Cleaner.

 

I find that water and a drop of washing up liquid do the job just fine.

 

Like you I use citric on the brass and have tried it on the mod without any problems.

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