Modified LED lamping torches.

[mick miller]

Ah, yes my torches are fixed if over driven.

 

I see what you're saying about the oslon now. So the only solution is to mcpcb mount it to an aluminium mcpcb then?

[Dave-G]

Ah, yes my torches are fixed if over driven.

 

I see what you're saying about the oslon now. So the only solution is to mcpcb mount it to an aluminium mcpcb then?

 

It appears so mick, there are copper stars available but they are not suited to the Oslon Black because the central heat pad is live, but we need to make the module body neutral to complete the circuit to the battery outer.

Edited June 21, 2013 by Dave-G

[Dave-G]

Six lenses arranged by PM and paid for - ready for posting, thanks chaps.

 

Now I have discovered the extreme cost of the proper machining grade copper, the high power ready to fit one piece drop-in module will be set at £35 for now but subject to revision.

 

Copper spacers - (a much thicker and more substantial heatsink than the ahorton spacer) are £20

 

Re-machined standard reflector/spacers are £13.

Edited June 23, 2013 by Dave-G

[Dave-G]

I was just about ready for bed by nearly 9.30 AM this morning when Mrs. G said a lorry had stopped outside.

Well it would have been pointless trying to sleep after seeing that lump of copper.

It is much easier to machine than the other copper I had but still nowhere near as good as aluminium, and it owned my dinky parting off blade... twice! It's easy to see why copper pills are not ready available because they can't be left on auto-run CnC in my opinion, so only fussy **** like me are likely to persevere.

But I can sleep easy now.

Here it is then, 27.1 grams of combined copper P60 heatsink and drop-in module, with an Ahorton spacer module and a standard 'reflector' module either side of it for comparison. I'm off to bed now:

 

 

Edited June 24, 2013 by Dave-G

[mrikirkby]

Looking good can't wait for the finished complete drop in !

[sandgrounder]

Lens' arrived today thanks Dave. Now what the hell do I do with them

I've shortened the reflector bell by 2mm to make up for the thickness of the lens lip and blackened the reflector but all I'm getting is a highly distorted beam. Does the led need to be closer to or further away from the lens? I can pm my number if that's easier?

[Dave-G]

Thanks for letting me know.

 

Most LED's will become focused at about 11mm from the rear of the ahorton lens to the emitter within the LED. When it is fully focused you will see a larger almost exact duplicate of the LED emitter die, including the wires, on a wall say - preferably one maybe 40 yards or more away - so pick on a neighbours gable end or something. It's easier to this with visible light LED's than IR. You will also note there is no spill that would otherwise make your 'nite-eyes squint a little in the dark - so your pupils will open wider to let you see more.

 

Whilst I quite like to see the distinct usually square shape and it's individual cells, especially with visible light, not everyone will want to see that. The trick then is to gradually reduce the 11mm focal distance in tiny little increments at a time by shaving bits off the length off the reflector spacer: You will see the darker and lighter parts merge as it de-focus's till you get to a beam that suits you, whilst the square shape becomes more rounded.

 

You would preferably be able to remove the smallest end of the blacked reflector (which has now become a focus spacer) so that the wider neck is kept as wide as possible to allow the widest possible part of the light cone being emitted from the LED to reach the widest possible area of the lens: Perhaps go back a few posts to compare the paper protractors I used in the two lenses. A further aspect retaining the wide neck is that when the smaller threaded end is removed/rethreaded the lens will push the bell backwards, not only towards the LED but equally beneficial, to make contact with the front of the torch body - and therefore improve the cooling path to air outside the torch.

 

Whilst I'm not looking for the work, I understand most people won't be equipped to modify their reflector to become a focal spacer, so I have ordered a suitable tap and will soon be able to machine down new standard reflectors focal spacers for £13 each - or make better/thicker copper heatsink ones for £20 each.

Edited June 25, 2013 by Dave-G

[nicholiath]

Lenses arrived yesterday.Thanks Dave.

[Dave-G]

Bad news for the IR illuminator overdiriven modules lads - 1400 MAH is too much for them.

 

I blew 5 last night while testing them. I had connected a temp sensor from my PC to the copper, and the longer lasting ones shot up to almost 50 degrees. They lasted between 15 seconds and almost half a minute. I have to admit I have never heard of anyone else overdiving an Oslon Black LED.

 

The visible red's will take more, many people are overdiving Cree ones LED's etc already on flashlight forums.

 

 

The best I can do for now is make the IR ones with 1050 MAH drivers, which is only 50MAH over their recommended driver power until I can find a less extreme overdrive. I'm just glad I have'nt cashed in any of the prepaid paypal order payments as I didn't want to draw then find I can't deliver.

 

I'll Pm all who are waiting to hear something.

 

The last one I tried is still cooling down as you can see from the temp guage.

[Dave-G]

Bad news for the IR illuminator overdiriven modules lads - 1400 MAH is too much for the Oslon black LED's I had intended using. There are others I can look at but for now it's a case of no can do, sorry.

 

I blew 5 last night while testing them. I had connected a temp sensor from my PC to the copper, and the longer lasting ones shot up to almost 50 degrees before failing They lasted between 15 seconds and almost half a minute. I have to admit I have never heard of anyone else overdiving an Oslon Black LED. Some of the alternative IR led's such as Cree will have a more usable heat pad under them, The Oslon Black'd heatpad is connected to the anode which is probably what's causing the issue.

 

The visible red's will take more, many people are overdiving Cree LED's for example already on flashlight forums.

 

 

The best I can do for now is make the IR ones with 1050 MAH drivers, which is only 50MAH over their recommended driver power until I can find a less extreme overdrive. I'm just glad I have'nt cashed in any of the prepaid paypal order payments as I didn't want to draw the funds then find I can't deliver.

 

I'll Pm all who are waiting to hear something.

 

The last one I tried is still cooling down as you can see from the temp guage.

[evo]

sorry to hear that dave what a downer mate,,not to worry , I was lucky I only blew one up,

 

I,ll still have a copper droppin with the oslon mate and the 1050mah driver, also after an oslon only on a star for my own spare torch,my oslon stars have arrived just waiting on the blacks to turn up,pm me how much mate and I,ll sort it

Edited June 28, 2013 by evo

[mick miller]

Dave do you want to speak to Vinh? He felt confident he could get these onto copper and over drive them (using a custom mcpcb). I just never bothered to send him any to try as the standard in a 66mm lens provided way more light than I needed.

 

Shame to waste that lovely turned copper drop in, it's almost a work of art!

[archiebald]

I love thesse torches with the DX lens set up, my shooting mate is impressed with them too so iv ordered a torch and lens to make him one. We talked about an amber version and while looking online I saw yellow 501b,s has anyone tried the yellow ones? Does anyone know what they are like?

[mick miller]

The yellow ones aren't really that yellow. More of a warm white.

[archiebald]

I thought so cheers Mick. Has anyone tried the green ones? Iv got one on order to try just waiting for it to arrive from Hong Kong.

 

Cheers, tom.

[Dave-G]

Dave do you want to speak to Vinh? He felt confident he could get these onto copper and over drive them (using a custom mcpcb). I just never bothered to send him any to try as the standard in a 66mm lens provided way more light than I needed.

 

Shame to waste that lovely turned copper drop in, it's almost a work of art!

Cheers Dave, (I know that sounds confusing to most readers who probably don't know Micks name is really Dave)...

 

I'm on the CPF if I want to contact him. He probably COULD get them onto a copper star but it would need to be electrically (and therefore thermally too) insulated from the pill because of the live heatpad. He is likely unaware of the electrical connection aspect. The metal body of the drop-in module is the neutral path to the battery for those who don't know.

 

There are other IR LED's I can look at eventually which hopefully have a non electrically connected heat pad.

 

The copper module won't be wasted - it should still make one of the best compact visible red lamping LED modules this side on Nagasaki.

Edited June 30, 2013 by Dave-G

[telf]

I thought so cheers Mick. Has anyone tried the green ones? Iv got one on order to try just waiting for it to arrive from Hong Kong.

 

Cheers, tom.

[

 

i have a red and a green one,cracking torches with daves mod,the green one is brighter if thats the word im looking for,the beam goes further,but the bunnies dont like it and disappear very quickly when shone on them

Edited June 30, 2013 by telf

[archiebald]

 

I thought so cheers Mick. Has anyone tried the green ones? Iv got one on order to try just waiting for it to arrive from Hong Kong.

 

Cheers, tom.

[

 

i have a red and a green one,cracking torches with daves mod,the green one is brighter if thats the word im looking for,the beam goes further,but the bunnies dont like it and disappear very quickly when shone on them

Cheers Telf do you use the DX lens?

 

Cheers for that bit of info!

 

Do you think it's on par with white light at scaring rabbits?

 

Cheers! Tom.

[mick miller]

I found Green provided a greater throw but the eye shine isn't as clear as with red or Amber.

 

I'd stick to those two choices for led drop ins.

[telf]

i use the a horton lense and i would say its the same as white light at scareing them off,and as mick says its got a greater throw but i didnt find eye shine a problem just that the little buggars wouldnt sit there

[evo]

if your out after rabbits then there is only one colour I use and it does not spook them,RED

Edited July 1, 2013 by evo

[sandgrounder]

Received some torches today and Ive installed the ahorton lens' into four of them that have adjustable focus. Unable to tell if its made a difference yet as its erm daytime but I'll compare them later.

How do you go about increasing the voltage to the leds? Is it a case of using AW18650? Or is some other modification required?

[evo]

can I ask why you want to increase the voltage

[sandgrounder]

to make the led brighter?

Ive placed the ahorton lens' in and can focus them to a sharp image of the led but I have to say the are no brighter than the standard plastic lens installed in the torches already.

Is it a case of replacing the led with a brighter unit too?

Ideally Id like to end up with something similar to the nightmasters but obviously at a lower price.

Ive tried the lens' on a T6 led and a Z6. The Z6 appears slightly brighter than the T6 but not dramatically so.

[mick miller]

You cannot put much more juice through an led mounted to aluminium without it going pop. They really need reflowing to copper, which is tricky, and a different driver.