Hevi Shot

[barrold]

Hi all

 

Just a quick question for my first post. I've just renewed my membership with spalding and district wildfowlers for my second year of wildfowling. Last year i shot steel shot on the marsh, but was warned off of it by a couple of people and told to try hevi shot.

 

Whats everyones views on this? Can i shoot hevi shot through full chokes and will it damage the barrels on my old side by side?

 

Cheers

[hambone]

@ close range steel is ok but if any sort of range is required hevi shot or simular is better but costs. Choice is yours = restrict range or shell out. **** i miss lead.

[chrispti]

Hi all

 

Just a quick question for my first post. I've just renewed my membership with spalding and district wildfowlers for my second year of wildfowling. Last year i shot steel shot on the marsh, but was warned off of it by a couple of people and told to try hevi shot.

 

Whats everyones views on this? Can i shoot hevi shot through full chokes and will it damage the barrels on my old side by side?

 

Cheers

 

I wouldn't use it through a tightly choked sbs.

 

Hevishots penetrative qualities at range are excellent, but how good a shot are you?

 

I dont shoot past 50yrds out on the marsh, just to make retrieving possible/ easyer.

 

I would push past 50 yrds if the target is above me, but, I have killed ducks and geese at those ranges with Gamebore steel, so cant see the need to pay the extra

[barrold]

Cheers Chrispti

 

I'm the same mate, 50 yards is my absolute max. firstly because i'm an ok shot but i'd rather not have injured birds walking about and secondly because my identification isn't that of a pro so i like to be sure what i'm shooting at.

[chrispti]

Cheers Chrispti

 

I'm the same mate, 50 yards is my absolute max. firstly because i'm an ok shot but i'd rather not have injured birds walking about and secondly because my identification isn't that of a pro so i like to be sure what i'm shooting at.

 

Then your doing the right thing mate

 

I wouldn't be using steel through your old SbS either, you really need something with softer shot, like ITM or Bismuth.

Edited June 15, 2012 by chrispti

[barrold]

Cheers Hambone

 

Could do with winning the lottery myself

[barrold]

I wouldn't be using steel through your old SbS either, you really need something with softer shot, like ITM or Bismuth.

 

 

I read somewhere that it scratches the barrels? They reckon it doesn't do them any harm but i'd rather not take the risk. Cheers for the advice, might give bismuth a go this season and see how i get on

[anser2]

As others have said if you are sticking with your s\s Bismuth or Tungstun is your best bet , but even the lighter loads are pretty costly at around £1.35p a shell. that might be ok if you only do the odd flight , but if you shoot a lot it gets too expensive. If I used such shells all the time my cartridge bill would be around £600 a season. For a serious fowler who shoots a fair bit steel is the only affordable answer .

 

To get the best out of steel you need to rethink your shooting. Go up at least 2 or 3 shot sizes to what you would have used in lead , get a gun that is steel proof for at least 3 inch shells and if you are going to regulary shoot geese or high mallard get a 3.5 chambered s\a , some quality shells Remmington nitro steel perhaps and treat yourself to a good full afterchoke. And you will wonder why you ever missed lead.

 

Hevi shot will out range steel , but at a price and you have to ask yourself , do you have the skill to constantly kill cleanly long range geese ? I used to love the old Hevi-shot loads , but do not do so well with the new reduced loads.

 

For what its worth i mainly use 3 shells. Gamebore steel 3 inch no 3 for most duck shooting ( 35p per shell ) , Remmington Sportsman 3.5 inch ( 68p per shell )no 2 for highish mallard and Winchester \ Remmington Sportsman or Nitro Steel 3.5 inch BB or BBB for geese ( £1 a shell ).

 

3 inch Hevi shot works out at about £2 a shell and Tungstun at £2.25 a shell.

 

I would not worry about barrel scratching , with steel all the shot should be protected within the wad cup. The 3 inch steel will kill well to 45 yards and the 3.5 inch loads to 50 yards. For 50 yard shots a full afterchoke is important. 50 yards is plenty far enough for most fowlers.

Edited June 15, 2012 by anser2

[super sharp shooter]

As others have said if you are sticking with your s\s Bismuth or Tungstun is your best bet , but even the lighter loads are pretty costly at around £1.35p a shell. that might be ok if you only do the odd flight , but if you shoot a lot it gets too expensive. If I used such shells all the time my cartridge bill would be around £600 a season. For a serious fowler who shoots a fair bit steel is the only affordable answer .

 

To get the best out of steel you need to rethink your shooting. Go up at least 2 or 3 shot sizes to what you would have used in lead , get a gun that is steel proof for at least 3 inch shells and if you are going to regulary shoot geese or high mallard get a 3.5 chambered s\a , some quality shells Remmington nitro steel perhaps and treat yourself to a good full afterchoke. And you will wonder why you ever missed lead.

 

Hevi shot will out range steel , but at a price and you have to ask yourself , do you have the skill to constantly kill cleanly long range geese ? I used to love the old Hevi-shot loads , but do not do so well with the new reduced loads.

 

For what its worth i mainly use 3 shells. Gamebore steel 3 inch no 3 for most duck shooting ( 35p per shell ) , Remmington Sportsman 3.5 inch ( 68p per shell )no 2 for highish mallard and Winchester \ Remmington Sportsman or Nitro Steel 3.5 inch BB or BBB for geese ( £1 a shell ).

 

3 inch Hevi shot works out at about £2 a shell and Tungstun at £2.25 a shell.

 

I would not worry about barrel scratching , with steel all the shot should be protected within the wad cup. The 3 inch steel will kill well to 45 yards and the 3.5 inch loads to 50 yards. For 50 yard shots a full afterchoke is important. 50 yards is plenty far enough for most fowlers.

 

Where can I get a full choke for steel shot for my benelli supernova

 

From another forum

We shoot skeet chokes, and one of my hunting partners shoots a cylinder choke when hunting ducks and geese over decoys. The tighter the choke, the worse the patterns I've found. When you send steel through a full choke,the pelletsactually bounces off of each other, resulting in poor patterns. When sent through a minimal constriction, steel surprisingly holds alot better of a pattern. Try it....you may be surprised.

Edited June 15, 2012 by super sharp shooter

[fenntay]

Try pro duck and goose shooting supplies they stock pattern master chokes

[xav]

In response to the original question, it might be more cost effective to buy a more "modern" gun if you're getting more into wildfowling. Performance steel cartridges are excellent up to 45 yards. £500 will get you a decent second hand gun that can withstand 1370 bar pressures.

[Guest cookoff013]

This is an exellent post. i`ve highlighted the most important parts.

 

As others have said if you are sticking with your s\s Bismuth or Tungstun is your best bet , but even the lighter loads are pretty costly at around £1.35p a shell. that might be ok if you only do the odd flight , but if you shoot a lot it gets too expensive. If I used such shells all the time my cartridge bill would be around £600 a season. For a serious fowler who shoots a fair bit steel is the only affordable answer .

 

To get the best out of steel you need to rethink your shooting. Go up at least 2 or 3 shot sizes to what you would have used in lead , get a gun that is steel proof for at least 3 inch shells and if you are going to regulary shoot geese or high mallard get a 3.5 chambered s\a , some quality shells Remmington nitro steel perhaps and treat yourself to a good full afterchoke. And you will wonder why you ever missed lead.

 

Hevi shot will out range steel , but at a price and you have to ask yourself , do you have the skill to constantly kill cleanly long range geese ? I used to love the old Hevi-shot loads , but do not do so well with the new reduced loads.

 

For what its worth i mainly use 3 shells. Gamebore steel 3 inch no 3 for most duck shooting ( 35p per shell ) , Remmington Sportsman 3.5 inch ( 68p per shell )no 2 for highish mallard and Winchester \ Remmington Sportsman or Nitro Steel 3.5 inch BB or BBB for geese ( £1 a shell ).

 

3 inch Hevi shot works out at about £2 a shell and Tungstun at £2.25 a shell.

 

I would not worry about barrel scratching , with steel all the shot should be protected within the wad cup. The 3 inch steel will kill well to 45 yards and the 3.5 inch loads to 50 yards. For 50 yard shots a full afterchoke is important. 50 yards is plenty far enough for most fowlers.

 

there are some aftermarket chokes regulated to steel shotsizes, so produces x pattern with steel y shot. but i would suggest you think hard how you shoot. on the deeks or pass shooting. with both you have the option of going tight and loose. i tend to shoot close. so my optons are alittle more flexable. i like to see the game before i miss it, i like to id the birds.

 

the other alternate is to homeload, or find a friend to homeload with. same loads different pricetag. way more flexability. but this isnt cost effective. as the set up cost and components, are un recoverable, but the performance is very subjective.

 

if you are at all concerned about the steel choices or price of loading, then i can suggest buy some heavyshot shells, and thank yourself for not ploughing £200 in a reloader £200 in shell components, £50 prooftesting, (optional), testing the shells, £50 compatable aftermarket choke etc.

 

now, there are new "nice-shot" tungsten alternates that are equivalent to lead but cost 25x more. as easy to and performs like for like. but this needs reloading and can be used in all guns. no special requirements.

[barrold]

Cheers everyone for all your comments, you've definatly given me some food for thought. I've got a pump action remington that i can fire steel through, but i prefer shooting the old sbs. I've suffered from a couple of cartridges getting stuck in my pump (Due to rust around the cartridge which is my own fault really)but it kinda put me off using it.

I wasn't overly sure about firing steel through my sbs which sparked the whole conversation about hevi shot.

[Grandalf]

I shoot hevishot 3" through a Benelli Super Black Eagle.

Only 26" barrels.

Best patterns are still with only cylinder or improved cylinder chokes.

More choke than that disrupts the pattern.

Shot these cartridges for years and never had any damage or other problems.

Gun has just been serviced and come back with an A1 rating.

(Except Jason said it needed cleaning - Cheeky b*****!).

 

Hevishot is more expensive but I think that given the price of fuel, permits, etc, etc - then when you do get a chance at the geese give it your best go.

 

I use steel for duck flighting.

[Rimfireboy]

Interesting stuff, thanks

[barrold]

I shoot hevishot 3" through a Benelli Super Black Eagle.

Only 26" barrels.

Best patterns are still with only cylinder or improved cylinder chokes.

More choke than that disrupts the pattern.

Shot these cartridges for years and never had any damage or other problems.

Gun has just been serviced and come back with an A1 rating.

(Except Jason said it needed cleaning - Cheeky b*****!).

 

Hevishot is more expensive but I think that given the price of fuel, permits, etc, etc - then when you do get a chance at the geese give it your best go.

 

I use steel for duck flighting.

 

 

Thats the same sort of idea i'm leaning towards. Use my pump with steel shot for the duck then when the geese are in i'll swap over to the sbs and hevi shot. Can always keep a couple of 3 1/2 steels in my pocket just incase.

Haha, worst thing about shooting = cleaning your gun. Its the last thing i want to do after rolling out of bed at 2, driving an hour and a half to the marsh, walking for miles, missing ducks, walk all the way back, drive another hour and a half, spend 30 mins getting moaned at for dumping muddy waders in the kitchen then clean the bloody gun

[motty]

Thats the same sort of idea i'm leaning towards. Use my pump with steel shot for the duck then when the geese are in i'll swap over to the sbs and hevi shot. Can always keep a couple of 3 1/2 steels in my pocket just incase.

Haha, worst thing about shooting = cleaning your gun. Its the last thing i want to do after rolling out of bed at 2, driving an hour and a half to the marsh, walking for miles, missing ducks, walk all the way back, drive another hour and a half, spend 30 mins getting moaned at for dumping muddy waders in the kitchen then clean the bloody gun

If you're worried about using steel in your s/s then you really won't want to use hevi shot. Hevi shot is far harder than normal steel shot and therefore more likely to damage a gun's barrel. Also, i'm not sure hevi is a good idea through a tightly choked s/s, either.

As an aside, i know some top goose shooters who say that new steel loads are almost as good as the old lead wildfowling loads, and i've seen them drop some really high pinks with them.

[Yoggy]

I tried the Hevi shot last year and personally think they`re not worth the extra money. As already stated if you`re shooting at a range of roughly 40 yards then the modern steel loads will suffice.

[anser2]

At 40 yards both cartridges will kill well , but the Hevi-shot patten is going to be very tight. Its at 50-55 yards that Hevi-shot comes into its own.

[barrold]

Cheers for all the comments, by the sounds of it the best choice is still probably the steel then.