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How much better is home loaded stuff compaired to factory. At the moment I'm doing okay with Norma vmax bullets in both .22-250 and .270 but I do wonder if I should spend the extra and get the reloading gear. I know quite a few people who reload anyway so I would probably just need the correct dies for the caliber I am using and I could use their stuff? Am I slightly daft to spend "x" amount on a decent rifle,(tikka) and scope,(S&B )to only use factory ammo and not utilise the rifle to it's fullest?

 

 

How much improvement do you get from going from factory ammo to Home loads? (say I'm an average shot).

How long does it take to develope a really good load. I'm Thinking 1/2 inch or less,(I realise to some extent this will be dictated by my shooting ability).

 

 

 

Appreciate your thoughts :good:

 

ps, a good reloading manual for the above? I'm mainly thinking of the .250 :good:

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How much better is home loaded stuff compaired to factory. At the moment I'm doing okay with Norma vmax bullets in both .22-250 and .270 but I do wonder if I should spend the extra and get the reloading gear. I know quite a few people who reload anyway so I would probably just need the correct dies for the caliber I am using and I could use their stuff? Am I slightly daft to spend "x" amount on a decent rifle,(tikka) and scope,(S&B )to only use factory ammo and not utilise the rifle to it's fullest?

 

 

How much improvement do you get from going from factory ammo to Home loads? (say I'm an average shot).

How long does it take to develope a really good load. I'm Thinking 1/2 inch or less,(I realise to some extent this will be dictated by my shooting ability).

 

 

 

Appreciate your thoughts :good:

 

ps, a good reloading manual for the above? I'm mainly thinking of the .250 :good:

 

The benefit of home loading is not really that you will spend less it is that you can do a lot more shooting for the same money. This is especially true given the ridiculous price of most commercial rifle ammo. The more shooting you can do the better you will become. If you are doing a lot of shooting then the cost of a press, dies and the other bits and pieces doesn't really come into it as long as you buy what you can afford. They will probably out-last you, after all.

 

Most modern factory ammo is very good but with loading your own you can build ammunition you can't buy. Factory stuff is made to certain tolerances so that it will fit in, and be safe in, any rifle from one with the loosest dimensions or one with the tightest. You can, for instance, just neck-size your brass which will give you the best possible fit in your chamber but probably won't fit in anyone elses.

 

J.

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There are no guarantees. You could just as easily make ammo thats worse. The thing is you can fiddle about and experiment with things until you hit on something that you like. Having been reloading for well over 30 years I am always slightly amused by the easy suggestion that reloaded ammo is better. Nobody ever says their reloads are pony and trap.

 

Or, that by the time you have bought all the gear and wasted hours and pounds testing loads that you don't like that it is actually cheaper.

 

But its a good side interest to shooting and everybody ought to try it.

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I'm Thinking 1/2 inch or less,(I realise to some extent this will be dictated by my shooting ability).

 

 

What sort of performance are you getting now with factory fodder? You will need some sort of benchmark to start from. Say two or three consecutive 5 shot 100yd groups shot from a really stable rest on a still day with your favourite factory load. These targets need to be carefully measured and saved for reference. Better still photographed and posted up here for even better advice.

 

If you're looking for genuine sub half inch groups (rather than "internet" groups) it takes a lot of hard methodical work. Although you will hear about plenty of "out of the box" remmys that will shoot 1/2 inch all day long you will rarely actually see one. Genuine 1/2 inch rifles and shooter are pretty thin on the ground.

 

It's easy to get a good group if A) you shoot only 3 shots. B) discount the odd flyer (and the one you pulled a bit) :)

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Rifle barrels are as individualistic as people and as has been said perhaps that factory round is one your gun favors, but maybe with some looking you may find one it favors more. Reloading is a great hobby and I feel you can make not a load but THE lad that really hums in your rifle. I utilize others load experience as a starting point and go from there. Many times there is a load that pretty much shoots in every gun in a specific caliber---given a decent barrel and trigger. If you have experienced friends you already have a valuable asset.

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What sort of performance are you getting now with factory fodder? You will need some sort of benchmark to start from. Say two or three consecutive 5 shot 100yd groups shot from a really stable rest on a still day with your favourite factory load. These targets need to be carefully measured and saved for reference. Better still photographed and posted up here for even better advice.

 

If you're looking for genuine sub half inch groups (rather than "internet" groups) it takes a lot of hard methodical work. Although you will hear about plenty of "out of the box" remmys that will shoot 1/2 inch all day long you will rarely actually see one. Genuine 1/2 inch rifles and shooter are pretty thin on the ground.

 

It's easy to get a good group if A) you shoot only 3 shots. B) discount the odd flyer (and the one you pulled a bit) :)

 

Well said, reloading your ammo and an expensive rifle with top quality glass does not guarantee tiny groups. Reloading does make practice more affordable though and its a great hobby and will teach you a hell of a lot about ballastics. Personally, though its been a journey, (enjoyable one at that) I can load more accurate, consistant and cheaper than factory ammo. I have the components to load hundreds of rounds without the worry of 'sorry mate we are out of stock of those'. I use all lee dies, tried redding but went back to my dependable lee's in the end. It can be as expensive as you like but doesnt need to be for accurate hunting ammo through a facory rifle. Its not for everyone and to be honest if you get inch groups with ppu and have a ready supply of the stuff then it may just be good enough for your shooting. Don't be put off though by some of the trosh you hear on here. :shifty:

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Thanks for the help :good: I'll write a proper reply later,(on phone just now).

 

I was just thinking..clean gun..is one fouling shot normally enough to be back on track? Or rifle dependent.

 

Say I'm using 50grn vmax bullets and have some soft points I'm needing to use up. Would it be ok just to gradually use these as the fouling shots? Or will a different round affect the accuracy?

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Thanks for the help :good: I'll write a proper reply later,(on phone just now).

 

I was just thinking..clean gun..is one fouling shot normally enough to be back on track? Or rifle dependent.

 

Say I'm using 50grn vmax bullets and have some soft points I'm needing to use up. Would it be ok just to gradually use these as the fouling shots? Or will a different round affect the accuracy?

 

I clean my rifles after each outing,( unless not fired) and find I don't need a load of fouling shots, the group tightens up a little after a few shots but then you have to balance with the fact that groups will open when the barrel gets hot. My killing shots will be from a cold n clean barrel, or at least from a cold barrel. If you need a bit of fouling as many seem to think their guns behave like this then I would use the ammo that you intend to test otherwise you won't know whats happening. I would start with a clean barrel, using bipod and bag to keep gun as still as possible, fire a round and let cool, do this for three rnds, if your comparing ammo then I would clean the barrel before you start on the next load. Sounds a bit anal I know but at least you know were you are with each load keeping other factors to a minimum.

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Mixing ammo without cleaning inbetween itself can degrade accuraccy (most can not shoot good enough to tel though) Never discount fliers when assesing accuraccy of a load , simply fire enough groups to even them out.

Ok heres one for you all to argue over;

In my opinion the only Centrefire rifle (rimfire being a different animal entirely) that realy needs a fouling round is one that has not been cleaned good enough or had every last trace of oil removed from the bore. Like many i did not always hold this opinion but i am total convinced of it now. I dont fret if i fired two or three rounds in dry conditions the previous day about cleaning for overnight storage but other than that its back to the metal and a patch through lightly oiled. before use its mineralised meths to de-oil and dry patch then resting for 20mins or so.

 

you can never replicate the state of dirtyness the barrel was at but you can replicate clean. Accuraccy is all about replication

Edited by kent
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Mixing ammo without cleaning inbetween itself can degrade accuraccy (most can not shoot good enough to tel though) Never discount fliers when assesing accuraccy of a load , simply fire enough groups to even them out.

Ok heres one for you all to argue over;

In my opinion the only Centrefire rifle (rimfire being a different animal entirely) that realy needs a fouling round is one that has not been cleaned good enough or had every last trace of oil removed from the bore. Like many i did not always hold this opinion but i am total convinced of it now. I dont fret if i fired two or three rounds in dry conditions the previous day about cleaning for overnight storage but other than that its back to the metal and a patch through lightly oiled. before use its mineralised meths to de-oil and dry patch then resting for 20mins or so.

 

you can never replicate the state of dirtyness the barrel was at but you can replicate clean. Accuraccy is all about replication

I certainly agree with the replication part and love clean barrels but have had barrels that would not shoot their best until dirty again. I firmly believe this was due to a badly worn throat that was pulling copper off the bullet until it filled in the voids in the throat.This occurance was almst always in factory C/M tubes in high velocity calibers----.17 Rem and .220 Swift. Stainless is not exempt but is a bit tougher.

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Yes my thoughts remain, i think the hard bit is getting such a bore clean. Leave any trace of copper in the wrong place and its worse than were it was pushed into in the first place. I spend much to long cleaning such a gun now, problem is it still realy shoots when it is totally clean a dozen through it would maybee entail a day of cleaning. So i just shoot one, two or three as required before a super clean. Yes it will get a new tube just as soon as it fails to return to its best, which is the cure - but you know how much such things cost here...............

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i think if your paper punching you will see a difference in group size if you reload and try different loads etc, but just for foxes not realy much difference as factory amo these days can shoot easily under an inch at 100 yards,ive reloaded for years now,every now and again i try factory amo in my 22,250 and it shocks me how good it is. i use a 6ppc which i ave to reload for as you cant buy factory amo for it,but the picture is of a group you can do if you reload and also every thing goes to plan,which some days it does,nt always happen...

post-56146-0-91417700-1348094898_thumb.jpg

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