rimmie Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hi all, right this is the situ. I'm putting a gun locker in the loft of my new house as all the other suitable walls are stud BUT on drilling 4 14m holes for the supplied wall bolts the blocks are hollow !!! So how the hell am I going to fix the locker to the wall when the blocks are only about 20mm thick ? HELP !!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 resin and threaded bar. drill holes (sounds like you already have) fill with chemical resin and insert threaded bar, allow to set then use nuts & washers to bolt down cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted September 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 resin and threaded bar. drill holes (sounds like you already have) fill with chemical resin and insert threaded bar, allow to set then use nuts & washers to bolt down cabinet. Thanks mate, but that will use masses of resin won't it ? The voids behind the holes are huge, iv seen some "hollow wall studs" but these seem to be for plasterboard, unless they do a heavy duty kind ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) As long as the resin bonds to the block and the rod it should be fine no need to fill the cavity with resin, if your worried you can mix some mortar and pump it into the hole and allow to dry, then re drill. Could try these http://www.hilti.com/holcom/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=de&nodeId=-11623 Edited September 30, 2012 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OddJob Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) Is it allowed in the loft? I had a similar problem as I had no solid walls it was all stud work. The FEO told me to bolt it to a concrete floor. Got it in my under stair cupboard. Edited September 30, 2012 by OddJob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 M8 or M10 toggle bolts into hollow block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregthegreat Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 M8 or M10 toggle bolts into hollow block +1 on this. Butterfly fixings as some people know them. Use threaded rod if the supplied bolts aren't long enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gozzy Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Between me and u I had the same problem. I used expanding foam to hold the bolts in . To be honest you wouldn't know , fao didn't go in my loft and asked me to give it a tug while he watched from the loft hatch. It is still very solid against the walk , if somebody really wanted that safe off the wall no matter what the fixing a good lever between the safe and brick or block would have it off in minutes , the key is to not let anybody see shotguns going in out the house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted September 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Thanks for the replys lads, I was going to put it under the stairs but there's loads of gas pipes in the way. I might try those toggle bolts, but I'm worried they don't seem sturdy enough for the FEO to pass ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 FEO passes the install not the fixing if he can pull it off the wall it fails look at the rating of the fixings 25kg+ with 4 that's 100kg of needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted September 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Thanks again lads, il have a look at toggle bolts tomorrow, there's a wicks and homebase not far away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanA Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Standard resin will give you at least .5kn per square foot. If someone can pull that off the wall then they are welcome to your guns!!! My FAO put all his weight trying to pull mine off and he's 15stn and 6ft plus. You can get different strengths if resin depending what calcs are required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScubaSparky Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 You can still use the Chem anchor route...Hilti & Fischer do special resin fixings that are designed for Hollow Brick & blocks. The kits have the addition of a fine mesh metal sleeve that gets inserted into the wall prior to pumping the resin in. Think it manages to hold the resin in a large clump, as allowed to it falling to the bottom of the hollow block cavity. Good luck with your install ! Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biketestace Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Measure 10mm in from the edge of the block,you will have a solid fixing here,thats at least 3 sorted... The remainding holes, you can use brolly-butterfly-resin fixings.Remember,dont over tighten or the blocks will split anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gozzy Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Missing the point here the blocks are hollow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) Iv looked at toggle bolts today, they seem like my only option. Still not convinced the FEO will be happy. Iv had a read regarding cabinet fixing and it doesn't actually say about rawl bolts just says along the lines of "securely fixed to the fabric of the house" so if I use toggle bolts and its on there nice and tight that should be good enough shouldn't it ? Edited October 1, 2012 by rimmie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old_n07 Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Mine is fixed to a hollow block wall in the loft, I just used standard expanding raw bolts and they pulled up well and the safe is solid. I also used some lag bolts through the holes in the bottom of the safe into the wooden floor and joists. The FEO was happy with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregthegreat Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Iv looked at toggle bolts today, they seem like my only option. Still not convinced the FEO will be happy. Iv had a read regarding cabinet fixing and it doesn't actually say about rawl bolts just says along the lines of "securely fixed to the fabric of the house" so if I use toggle bolts and its on there nice and tight that should be good enough shouldn't it ? Yes. Greg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biketestace Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Missing the point here the blocks are hollow Ah rito,but how can a block be completely hollow,if they are then iv been building houses with fresh air for 30 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon pete Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Ah rito,but how can a block be completely hollow,if they are then iv been building houses with fresh air for 30 years could be 6" or 9" hollows ive even seen 4" hollows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biketestace Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 could be 6" or 9" hollows ive even seen 4" hollows Yep Indeedey but all hollow blocks have 2 sides & front & back,also solid casts between each hole,all im trying to say is he can use the solid parts eg. e either side of the vertical compo joint..Not more than 10mm in from the blocks edge... Hes lucky as its a loft install & the blocks & joints will be visible,so a few test holes can be done first,many a time we used to leave this measurement to help plumbers for solid boiler fixings,im hoping this helps everyone as fixing to this type of block has allways been a pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Thanks for the advise lads, but iv secured it with the biggest toggle bolts I could find. Phoned FEO and he said toggle bolts were perfectly fine, so problem solved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SniperCWF Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 If you don't mind the look, I used the excess chemfix type resin left in the tube to do a bead all round the edge of the safe against the blockwork in the loft. I am convinced this alone would probably have held the thing securely enough for the "fao tug-test" without the four threaded rods. That stuff dries harder than rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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