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have you got a lead dripper if you have the main reason people have trouble is the ramp keeps jaming up use copper slip to keep it lubed watch it and and every 15 mins give it a freshh smear while it is running to keep it running smooth if you have any pacific questions feel free to ask

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If after applying copper slip at the start you get any ramp problems it will probably be draughts chilling it and you would be better to move the shotmaker to where draughts can't affect it so it stays hotter. You can still use a stick of chalk to move any shot that do stick or clump together, though none should.

 

The summer is really the best time for shotmaking because the warmer air makes problems such as this far less apparent.

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Is it a homemade shot dripper or a shop bought one? and chance of a quick picture of it? i really want to do it this year but not sure at all where to start! it has to be the only significant way as i see it to reduce the cost of reloading. If i can get this up and running really the only cost is powder, primers, wads and my time which is free and saving me from hanging about with the wife!

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I'm on the verge of giving this a go but it's the hardening and sourcing of required materials for this process that's putting me off, being a builder the lead comes free so I feel I'm missing a trick not making the most of it :/

 

I'm in the very same boat - got plenty of lead and the ability and bits ready to make the shotmaker and have plenty of patience to get it working but keep putting the idea off everytime I read about the hassle of sourcing and mixing in linotype to harden the shot. Just how critical is the hardening of shot - surely in the very early days it wasn't done? - but then I suppose it was being used at much lower pressures and velocity and so wasn't required to achieve reasonable patterns. As far as game goes would softer more rapidly deforming shot not be better assuming it patterned well enough?

Edited by paul99
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Some of the best homemade shot I've seen in action, and disliked by pigeon, was made from roofing lead.

 

Thanks FC that has moved the shotmaker idea closer to the top of the things to do list. It's always been in the back of my mind that my grandfather and great grandfather before him easily managed to feed their families without access to perfect off the shelf hardened and highly polished shot available now.

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  • 3 weeks later...

morning shotmakers could anybody tell me if there is an exact measurement from the dripper and top of coolant and also what is the angle of the ramp in relation to the drippers. also any hints on best coolant.. cheers.

 

You want the coolant as close as is practical to the ramp, grinding the underside away to create a knife edge helps but try and be 5mm or less it will create a smaller splash and deform the molten pellet less. Fabric conditioner is the best non oily or flammable coolant and is used neat. DOT4 brake fluid is probably the very best but is expensive flammable and toxic.The shotmakers I have built had an 18' tilt to the ramp along with a 12' tilt on the base making a total of 30'. Tilting the base throws the molten lead forward in the pot to create pressure on the drippers and force the lead thru. I found the best ramp length was around 28mm and the exit point of the drippers about 9mm above. It's not that critical though.

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