HDAV Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 (edited) The type of anchor you have will protrude once tightened so I suggest cutting the excess thread down once fitted and covering the cuts bits to prevent damaging guns heatshrink or elec tape at worst. You'll need a spanner too. A person couldn't pull a correctly fitted no 8 screw out of a wall if fitted properly... ( Without a crowbar or lever)You drill hole the depth of fitting (see instructions on packet) with a hammer drill and masonry bit for masonry ( ideally an SDS drill) I prefer http://m.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m8-x-25mm-pack-of-5/46792 but the ones you have will work. Fitting above skirting is no issue ( did this for a mate) but I cut some mdf to pack the cabinet out level with skirting only issue was the bottom holes were on the skirting so had to drill that ( in hindsight it would have been better to mount above! Then you get a space under for a slab if carts.)If you can fit it into a corner this limits levering points and prevent a crow bar getting behind to pull it off the wall... Edited March 30, 2013 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IXI KARL IXI Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 The fixing you have will be good. I mean the chem fixings are great and so are thunderbolts. I use them both to fix machines down to the floor and they don't move. But why spend extra money if you don't need to? Just be careful not to over tighten, once nipped up just a couple more turns. You can feel it. I ve seen lads useing power bars to tighten up these type of fixings and wonder how they fall out (with half the brickwork) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypaint Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 It's always worth putting a load of grip fill on the back and a bead around the edge to prevent Crow bar attacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psyxologos Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I have a 3 gun and a 5 gun cabinet. For each of then I used rawl bolts (the largest I could get) and fitted the cabinets where the scirting board ends. They went on a stone wall (I had endless hours of fun with my drill trying to get through the stone) and now the cabinets are there to stay.....for ever. The chemical stuff sounds great. I will definitely consider them if I ever need to fit another cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Jon http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/resin-fixings/cat840022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev56 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Chemical fixing is the way to go, no expansion, no cracking. Buy lengths of studding and cut to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-wheel-drive Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Just out of interest everyone is going on about how they have fixed theres to the wall but has anyone ever had someone try to pry it off there wall the dreaded burglar. It is hard to say haw it should be fixed to the wall unless we now what the wall is made off red brick blocks old crumbly stone or even plaster board and wood all will need there own way of fixing I do not think that there is a one size fits all option in this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve72 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) My vote is for rawlbolts, properly drilled holes and not over tightened. I've fixed lean to roofs and wall plates with them . Why waste money on chem or Gucci fixings . If rawlbolts don't work they've been fitted poorly. Edited March 31, 2013 by Steve72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-wheel-drive Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 One option that people have not said if you can get to the other side of the wall and it is not to thick you could drill holes through the wall and put long coach bolts with rounded heads or even countersunk ones that you could plaster over you would have to knock the wall down to get that one off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compo90 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 in my last house the bolts like Jon has pictured, worked lovely as it was a traditional brick built house. holes drilled, bolts sunk in and the nuts tightened till it was solid.In fact when we sold the house on the couples second viewing (when i knew them a bit better and realised they were actually buying the house) I showed them the cabinet and how it was fixed, explaining that the bolts would be staying when the cabinets gone......he had to hacksaw them level and cover with plaster. That was in a built in wardrobe. Moved here with the same cabinet, i have it in another built in cupboard, this one had a skirting board, i removed that to get it flush to the corner. Here the walls are the plaster board "dot and dab" type over breeze block.......i tried to fasten the cabinet in with bolts the same as i used before. The bolts only just made it into the breeze block in points, in some of the other points it went into the "dab" behind the plaster board, and also where i had taken the skirting out the plaster board had crumbled and i was left with gaps along the bottom and to the side......... I bought some expanding building foam that sets solid, i screwed the bolts in as best i could and then filled all gaps around bolts and behind the cabinet with the building foam..............result is now its dried, the steel cabinet is fastened in and the wall would need to come down to take it away. I tested it how the FEO had done, empty cabinet and foot on wall whilst trying to pull the cabinet away ................i weigh 18stone and am 6'02" pulling with all my weight it stayed put......no movement. I think that a mix of the bolts and chemical adhesive is probably best......if we move house i will need a new cabinet as i dont think i could remove mine now without ruining the wall in the big built in cupboard I didnt lift it over the skirting board as i feel its more secure flush to the floor to eliminate points that can be pulled and prevents any points that a bar could be used to apply force against it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 My vote is for rawlbolts, properly drilled holes and not over tightened. I've fixed lean to roofs and wall plates with them . Why waste money on chem or Gucci fixings . If rawlbolts don't work they've been fitted poorly. Into brick or heavy block they are perfect for dot and dab there are better options but if brick behind the board you need to fix into the brick not the board or gap. For dot and dab these are the best but need a solid wall behind http://www.rigifix.com/index_files/Page489.htm Cabinets are only 2-3mm sheet steel they aren't safes and are not designed to resist sustained attack with tools, just an opportunist burglar with a screw driver and a hammer, perhaps a crowbar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Marty Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Try thunderbolts mate they are easy just drill the hole then screw the the thunderbolts in There a great job for fitting cabinet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 People who aint used to this stuff should use threaded stud and the special epoxy stuff. I always fit above the skirting just pack it and mark it drill it fit the stud, let it dry and pop the safe on the wall, big washers and a few nuts and jobs good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booboojosh Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I live in a new build rented property and all the walls seem to be hollow/plaster board. Not bothered about making some holes in the wall but wondered what the best way of fitting would be on these walls? Even the external walls echo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Probably dot and dab have a look at rigifix, 4 small holes in plasterboard when your finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booboojosh Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Is dot and dab the plaster board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booboojosh Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Rigifix look perfect, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Yeah dot and dab is plasterboard over brick/block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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