darren m Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 my daughter had uneven tread wear on two front tyres of her car and the mot guy mentioned to get it checked out , its either tracking or toeing in ( cant remember )are these 2 things different . how do you check them or adjust them on a VW polo or is it a job for a garage cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 its a job for a garage / tyre or exhaust place, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 As said, garage/whatever job. No, they're not different: it's all part of the same set up. The angle your front wheels are set at in relation to the straight ahead direction is known as the tracking angle. This is particular to each model of vehicle and the fronts of the wheels can diverge or converge and this is known as toe-out or toe-in respectively. Should this angle be altered - potholes, 'kerbed it', or whatever - the result is (or more accurately, can be) as you describe. Many 'garages' do not charge to check this, only doing so if adjustment is necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferguson_tom Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Its not something you can do yourself easily or accuratley. I use STS tyre pros and always done a good job at a reasonable price. Both toeing and tracking are done at the same time. Edited July 23, 2013 by ferguson_tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Its not something you can do yourself easily or accuratley. I use STS tyre pros and always done a good job at a reasonable price. Both toeing and tracking are done at the same time. Would that be balancing and tracking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Its not something you can do yourself easily or accuratley. I use STS tyre pros and always done a good job at a reasonable price. Both toeing and tracking are done at the same time. Actually, you can Tom. Riding the curbs in the race car would often throw the tracking out in practise in an effort to put in a good time and we had to reset for the race. However, it is easier to get a tyre shop to do it for those that don't know. As wymberley say, its probably as a result of potholes or kerbing. For the op, tracking is the overall term for the wheel geometry, toeing in or toeing out. There is a threaded rod with a locknut either side of the vehicle from the steering box to the road wheel. On some vehicles they are rearwards of the wheel, others on the front, just different configurations. If you use the example of the front mounted, your steering wheel should be in the straight ahead position and both front wheels should be parallel. Then the individual makers data will be for eg 1mm toe in. That is to say, both wheels will point inwards .5mm each. When you hit a kerb, the steering rod gets "stretched" so that toe in is lost and becomes say X amount of toe out. You will see one tyre usually wearing un-eavenly on the inside. If the steering rod configuration is at the rear of the wheel, you get the opposite effect and the wheels are pushed together resulting in excessive toe in, so the outsides of the tyre will wear. All that needs to be done is to slacken the lock nut on the relevant side and adjust the rod, in or out to reinstate the correct toe in/out as per data. Make sure, when you take it to wherever, that they centralise the steering wheel first and clamp it. Often, they don't bother and whilst you might leave the garage with the wheels now aligned with the chassis and correct toe in/out, the steering wheel can be at 1-2 o'clock!! Really annoying!! Usually because they adjust the wrong side. Also monitor the wear thereafter as worn tyres are a good money spinner for them and they often don't try too hard with the tracking, except for the invoice!! Hope this helps. Edited July 23, 2013 by turbo33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferguson_tom Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Would that be balancing and tracking? Yer your right.... blonde moment. I had my 2 back tyres balanced and tracking done by STS for about £40.00 inc VAT. My truck was well out and it took them quite a while to sort it. Turbo 33 I have never done it myself as always thought it was difficult to get right, what do you use a laser light or pieces of string etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) So assume there is no toe in out at the rear of the truck/vehicle, and you can get an un obstructed run from the rear tyre to the front. Centre the steering wheel and run a decent line that will hold tension from the rear tyre to the front as close as possible to the centre of the wheel so that theoretically its just kissing all the side walls. Same goes for other side. If all is supposed to be zero toe/in out, then the string will as said, be kissing the walls equally. If you require lets say 1mm toe in, then adjust the steering rod until there is 0.5mm gap between the string and the wall at the front of the tyre. Do the same with the other side. As said above, its usually kerb damage so you will almost certainly find when the steering wheel is centred, the off/side wheel measurements are fine, but its the nearside that will be out of adjustment. Except round here. Some of the oldies launch their cars at the pavement and do an equal job of both sides If you can get access easily, and you can on most trucks as they are so high off the ground, you can measure from rim to rim. Get as close to the horizontal centre as you can and measure the distance from the rearward inside of the rim to the same point the opposite side and then again the forward side of the rim to the opposite side. You can then calculate the necessary adjustments. This is the more accurate of the two as tyre quality can vary hugely and if you have a banana shaped tyre the results will be obvious. If that's the case, spinning the tyre and letting a fine marker make an accurate around the tyre, same on the other side, then measure the same, ie for and aft. Always do the measurements with the weight of the vehicle on its wheels. I have had several vehicles in the past that even if the adjustments are carried out to spec by a specialist, the tyres have still worn un favourably. You can then make minor adjustments until its perfect. Edited July 23, 2013 by turbo33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren m Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 ok guys thanks - tyres are both worn on inside , and steering seems a bit lively at time when you go over a pot hole etc seems to amplifiy it i,m just wondering i replaced a broken spring on one side a few months back on the front after it snapped , could that alter the tracking or camber of the wheel it was a simple job to do , suspension off , spring compressor , new coil and bolt it all back together same way it came off any thoughts cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Yes. Fitting any new suspension component can effect the geometry of the steering/wheel alignment. A new spring may be marginally taller than the old one as it has not yet been subjected to years of intermittent compression, meaning it may hold the rest of the suspension components and wheel in a different place than where it used to be. Adjustments would have to be made to accommodate this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning 425 clay hunter Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) There's some decent advice on here but as someone who worked as a mechanic for many years in a backstreet garage and at main dealers for many years take it to a reputable garage and get it done properly. Using string is not a good or accurate way for a novice (or anyone) in my opinion. If you make a balls of it, it may end up costing you a tyre or two in the long run. Most garages should do it for £20/30 as its a ten/fifteen minute job. As a general guide most cars are set up with between 5 degrees to 10 degrees of toe out (wheels slightly pointing out at the front of the wheel) as you drive along, the friction of the road pulls them in. If you have the wheels set up perfectly once the friction has been accounted for the wheels should be running true and straight therefore creating minimal resistance on the road surface and causing tyres to wear nice and even with the maxim amount of tyre contact to the road. Everyone has their own ways and views and these are just mine. In my experience get it done properly the first time and save your daughter time and money and get it to a good garage. Also I believe along with the already mentioned kerbs and pot holes that speed bumps are one of the main factors. The small ones you get a wheel either side if hit incorrectly can throw the tracking out. Hope this helps. ATB 425 Edited July 24, 2013 by Browning 425 clay hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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