welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I'm just moving house and need to put a side door into a single skin brick garage. What's the best to use an L shaped steel lintel or a concrete one? Is this a DIY or pro job? If I get a builder in what would it cost (Staffordshire). Cheers PW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dorianbuilders Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 All depends what's above it cavity wall etc it may need propping. I'm in north staffs and depending on where you are could advise if you like or send me some pics? If your near enough we could do it as a job or I could just guide you through it. Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Adrian Thank I'm in Lichfield there's no cavity just single skin brick with support brick pillars at the corners and 2 in the middle holding a flat roof. Thanks Daf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I'm just moving house and need to put a side door into a single skin brick garage. What's the best to use an L shaped steel lintel or a concrete one? Is this a DIY or pro job? If I get a builder in what would it cost (Staffordshire). Cheers PW Generally concrete on single skin but depends on what is above it. Its generally harder to hang the door well than do this part, so well within scope of DIY. I suspect you need B/regs (but am a bit out of touch now) as a new opening into a garage is it seen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Not seen by the public!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dorianbuilders Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) At a guess. Without seeing it I'd say about £300 plus materials and a mini skip all depends on what you want for the finish. Do the perps ( brick joints) align that always helps. Steel would be more aesthetically pleasing as you wouldn't see it! Edited February 5, 2014 by dorianbuilders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I ve not measured it out I was doing to order the door that lined up best ;-) If I use the steel L can I not just rack out the mortar to push the lintel in then mortar it in place? Let it all go off then get the grinder out to cut the hole out? I'll not use a skip I'll run the waste to the tip in my jeep in a few runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dorianbuilders Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I surpose at a push you could depends what's above it, I certainly wouldn't recommend that though as the Lintol would be fitted dry then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Sorry perhaps I wasn't clear I'd take all the mortar out so the lintel goes in freely then fill the gap with mortar to push/ tap the steel into so it's bonded in with mortar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have used a large right angle steel (4")and hacked out mortar to suit but there were only 2 courses of blocks over it. I am not suggesting this is the best way but it worked for me on an emergency access point not a doorway in regular use. 16 years on and an earth-quake/tremor later all is still OK. Gauge the height carefully to suit your door frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 you would normally jack the lintle up into place then pack very tight with slate before any mortar goes near it, once you have packed it with the slate then fill with mortar and don't remove the prop until it has fully set hope this helps Evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So there would normally be no mortar between the steel and the top bricks? That makes me think it's more achievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So there would normally be no mortar between the steel and the top bricks? That makes me think it's more achievable. on mine, I carefully chiselled the mortar out then packed new mortar in afterwards. Mine is not weight bearing (other than a few blocks). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Malk That sounds doable I think I'll DIY it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So there would normally be no mortar between the steel and the top bricks? That makes me think it's more achievable. that is correct,, no mortar between the steel and the bricks, the reason for this is mortar can perish or turn to dust over time thus making the steel unstable, you MUST pack it with slate , ensure it is tight and then fill with the mortar hope this helps atb Evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yep got the slate ready I'll get ordering when I've unpacked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBS Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 that is correct,, no mortar between the steel and the bricks, the reason for this is mortar can perish or turn to dust over time thus making the steel unstable, you MUST pack it with slate , ensure it is tight and then fill with the mortar hope this helps atb Evo This might be the case with an RSJ sat on designated padstone but it's common practice to bed steel lintels. I never consider packing with slate as best practice as it's usually done to a very poor standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 This might be the case with an RSJ sat on designated padstone but it's common practice to bed steel lintels. I never consider packing with slate as best practice as it's usually done to a very poor standard. How would you do it then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 This might be the case with an RSJ sat on designated padstone but it's common practice to bed steel lintels. I never consider packing with slate as best practice as it's usually done to a very poor standard. not by me its not, it is the proper way , mortar should not be used to pack the steel, its ok to fill in once it has been packed,, if done properly there is nothing better than slate atb Evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dorianbuilders Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 This might be the case with an RSJ sat on designated padstone but it's common practice to bed steel lintels. I never consider packing with slate as best practice as it's usually done to a very poor standard.I kind of agree with this in terms of where possible build a Lintol in using cement but I would also be happy to and have in the past fitted lintels/steels etc packing them bedding them on cement and packing them tight with slate at intervals then pointing with cement, but I would stress is imperitive to make sure you push the cement back tight to 'fill the bed'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 http://www.diynot.com/forums/building/installing-a-lintel-in-single-brick-garage-wall.366929/ This basically my plan but it will be holding 3-4 courses of brick at most not a pitched roof and 10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farcombehall Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi ya what your going to do is correct, pack with slate first then cover with mortar joint, if you just pack with just mortar when it dries out it shrinks leaving small cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bb Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I helped a pal do this many years ago. I can't remember what he did about the lintel but am happy to advise you thusly: It's astounding just how much dust is made when cutting the bricks & cement! Make sure you've warned your neighbours (100 yards or so in any direction) well in advance so that they can take in washing & shut windows/doors. Wear a shed load of protective clothing, all buttoned up tight, again it's amazing where some of the dust will end up. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kelly Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I can't imagine there's any weight load being taken above the door in a single skin brick garage. A 4x2 wood lintel would be perfectly adequate with the door lining below. Many examples like that all over the country. Might not be very best practice, but has worked fine for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Cheers guy I was planning to have a gazebo with 3 side down over the job to stop to much dust except on/in me. Tim hear what you saying but think I'll go for a steel, looks neater some how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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