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Shot making the next level


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The K type thermocouple can come with a plug on it so there is no need to terminate as in joiners, con block's etc ,If you want to extend it first calibrate the K type to the PID using boiling water at 100 degree,s then extend the wiring or add your plug/socket requirements .When you have done all your thermocouple wiring redo the boiling water test and adjust the PID offset back to 100 if required.

Any wiring inside the box to extend the wiring from PID to K type socket make both leg's are the same length and out of the same type of wire.

Edited by Andy H
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Not Shure what method to use first the original idea was to drop in to the coolant without a ramp but after finding how large the coolant tank is from John at Folkstone engineering supplies ,I think the first pan will have a ramp. That will allow me to build up a usefull amount of shot to start with. While I make the bigger coolant tank.

 

Sitsinhedges I would like to see a sample of your shot that is dropped in to fabric softener can you send me a good photo of some please

 

The electrics are very simple 240 volts in to the controler 24 v output from the controler to the SSR this turns the element on and off 2 wirers for the thermocouple the reast is just a small 12 volt power supply to run the circulation pump and a temperature gauge

 

deershooter@hotmail.co.uk

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The K type thermocouple can come with a plug on it so there is no need to terminate as in joiners, con block's etc ,If you want to extend it first calibrate the K type to the PID using boiling water at 100 degree,s then extend the wiring or add your plug/socket requirements .When you have done all your thermocouple wiring redo the boiling water test and adjust the PID offset back to 100 if required.

Thanks Andy I will get a not her plug and socket now

 

Deershooter

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Still waiting for some terminals to arrive from eBay they should be here tomorrow going to fetch the aluminium billet tomorrow for the dripper head

 

Watch this space

 

Deershooter

 

if you drop me a pm with any terminals your after i can probably help you, im more than happy to send first class post so youll get them (hopefully) tomorrow

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Finished the back panel this afternoon the terminals arrived in the post ,fetched the aluminum for the dripper head ( photo later I left it in the car ) of for a MOT on the car now so wiring will start tonight

The three fuses are

 

1, heating element

2 ,240 v input

3, 12 v output

 

Mains power comes in to the bottom socket and the top socket is for the heating element ,the XLR socket is the + and - for the circulation pump with the third pin used for the temperature sender

 

Who's me luck who in the right minds MOT's a car on Friday 13'th

 

Deershooter

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Finally finished the wiring today, it took longer than expected although the box looked plenty big enough at the start it was quite difficult to wire every thing in when in place.

 

Tomorrow will be a day of testing with the multimeter to ensure that every thing is ok and I have no problems .

 

Then I can then power it up and see what happens the controller will need calibrating and I have to go and fetch some flex for the power supply

 

Deershooter

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Well the good news is there was no smoke or flames it didn't go bang and it all works (apart from the light in the green switch ) that's not my fault it packed up the second time it was turned on will get a replacement at the weekend

 

No just got to get dad moving on the milling out of the pan

 

Deershooter

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