casts_by_fly Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Honestly wouldnt see the need for the hummer! Ive the 22lr when ive to be quiet and the hornet for everything else!obivously if you were shooting lots of foxes a bigger 22 centerfire may be in order! See what u meen about the brass but u can get the hang of fast reloads whilecatching the brass! I'm with him and have already done the same thing. I've had my hornet for about 6 years now and sold the HMR when I got it. Basically the same bullet, but traveling 1k fps faster and moderated just the same. Reload it for better consistency and accuracy than the HMR yet still cheaper (well it was when I got my bullets and primers). I saw no need for the HMR, but maybe you shoot a high volume at night and lose brass? I kept the 22LR for quiet stuff and 223 for bigger stuff, but the 223 hasn't really been used since I got the hornet. Anneal the cases before you size them down AND again afterwards and prior to first loading If you dont you will get neck splits and cases lasting no more than a handfull of cycles. I have necked down 22 Hornet cases to make cases for my 17 Ackley Hornet but the Hornady Hornet is a slightly shorter case. The cost of 17HH brass is not to bad, personally thats the way I would go. A I haven't annealed any of mine and we're on 5 reloads now. I'm running 20g vmax with max (for my gun) loads. I figured I would try it first without annealing and see how I got on. I formed 200 cases and shot the same ones through load development. They could do for a trim, but still shoot just fine (sub 3/4" at 100 yd) so I haven't bothered. I would recommend the same to others, but then again reloading is all about how much time you want to put into it and what you want out of it. I just wanted an improved HMR with the least effort and lowest cost. For case forming, I didn't buy a special die. The bullet seating die with the seater removed works just fine to set the initial shoulder. You have to play with the die height in the press at first to get the shoulder in the right place, and you have to lube the cases while working slow, but I think I only lost 3 cases in the first 200 and none in the next 200. First pass through the seating die, second through the sizing die. It takes a couple tries to get the lube right. Too much and you crush the shoudlers. Too little and the cases are sticky in the die (I killed a priming pin with too little lube). This was with both Rem and S&B brass. thanks rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Using Hornady dies I guess (I only ask as I have a set for 243 that I can look at to better understand what you mean). I don't use a 22lr (can't stand them) but use a 22 FAC air for all the small, quiet stuff. I figure I could pretty much cover most bases with a 22 (air), 17 hornet & 243 – so the cabinet wouldn't be any more crowded and I get to reload both rifles. Oddly I find reloading as enjoyable as shooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) I had a website link given me to a company that sell a forming die to convert the above. I intend to order one if my friend cannot manage to make one. Here's the link: http://www.bullberry.com/reloading_supplies.html They won't export that die to the UK Steve. Or rather, they will, but it will cost you $565. Edited November 2, 2015 by mick miller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Using Hornady dies I guess (I only ask as I have a set for 243 that I can look at to better understand what you mean). I don't use a 22lr (can't stand them) but use a 22 FAC air for all the small, quiet stuff. I figure I could pretty much cover most bases with a 22 (air), 17 hornet & 243 – so the cabinet wouldn't be any more crowded and I get to reload both rifles. Oddly I find reloading as enjoyable as shooting. If you mean me, then no I have redding dies, but they are AH. Shouldn't matter though for initial sizing and shoulder set as you're only sizing down the neck to the shoulder. rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I'm with him and have already done the same thing. I've had my hornet for about 6 years now and sold the HMR when I got it. Basically the same bullet, but traveling 1k fps faster and moderated just the same. Reload it for better consistency and accuracy than the HMR yet still cheaper (well it was when I got my bullets and primers). I saw no need for the HMR, but maybe you shoot a high volume at night and lose brass? I kept the 22LR for quiet stuff and 223 for bigger stuff, but the 223 hasn't really been used since I got the hornet. I haven't annealed any of mine and we're on 5 reloads now. I'm running 20g vmax with max (for my gun) loads. I figured I would try it first without annealing and see how I got on. I formed 200 cases and shot the same ones through load development. They could do for a trim, but still shoot just fine (sub 3/4" at 100 yd) so I haven't bothered. I would recommend the same to others, but then again reloading is all about how much time you want to put into it and what you want out of it. I just wanted an improved HMR with the least effort and lowest cost. For case forming, I didn't buy a special die. The bullet seating die with the seater removed works just fine to set the initial shoulder. You have to play with the die height in the press at first to get the shoulder in the right place, and you have to lube the cases while working slow, but I think I only lost 3 cases in the first 200 and none in the next 200. First pass through the seating die, second through the sizing die. It takes a couple tries to get the lube right. Too much and you crush the shoudlers. Too little and the cases are sticky in the die (I killed a priming pin with too little lube). This was with both Rem and S&B brass. thanks rick my 17AH was 3rd hand when it got to me. I know its first owner had put no more than 50 rounds through it, 2nd owner said 300-400. I had about 25 RWS cases left from the original 100. I made another 100 from Remmy brass and have lost non to neck splits after about 10 cycles. However I have lost a couple to head seperation. the case on this cartridge spaces on the rim, the rim on the RWS is thicker than the rim on the Remmy case so I had headspace issues. Have now prepped another 100 RWS cases but am still using the Remmy ones but keeping an eagle eye open for head seperation signs. This is a ring around teh fired case about 12mm from the rim, the next resize and the case will fail in the die leaving you with part of a case in teh die to remove. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Anneal the cases before you size them down AND again afterwards and prior to first loading If you dont you will get neck splits and cases lasting no more than a handfull of cycles. I have necked down 22 Hornet cases to make cases for my 17 Ackley HornetThe cost of 17HH brass is not to bad, personally thats the way I would go A They won't export that die to the UK Steve. Or rather, they will, but it will cost you $565. I've got the above die...give them a call or check out woodchuck den they do them too. I never aneal before resizing as it can make the case to soft and crush it.... I only anneal after necking down and before fire forming. Steve b ya cases are resized I'll anneal them Monday and get them posted back to ya Edited November 7, 2015 by SPARKIE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 I'm putting in for a .17 hornet, my local rfd has 100's of hornady brass in stock. I'm assuming it's pretty pants ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Just had my brass back from Sparkie, and it's excellent. He did a brilliant job with it. My thanks to him for helping me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimmie Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 What's that hornady Steve ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 What's that hornady Steve ? The brass was bought from Henry Krank and is PPU. It looks okay, and I have used this brand of brass when reloading .22-250 and .243. You can buy Winchester brand brass for around the same price, and I would say that it's probably better, although I have never had problems with PPU in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 the ppu and Winchester .22hornet brass makes good .17HH OR .17AH rounds you wont go far wrong with it....and its a hell of a lot cheaper than being stung for hornady brass. the problem I have is you cannot buy .17ah brass and you cant use .17hh brass as it pulls the neck back to far ive tried firing .17hh in the ah but it jams the bolt. so I have to form everything for mine and have purchased all dies needed to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 If anyone wants .17 Hornet cases, that have been resized from .22 Hornet, get in touch with SPARKIE. He did a load for me and they are perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Do you have to fire form them first Steve? Not long now and my variation will be back, then I can start looking for the hmr replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Do you have to fire form them first Steve? Not long now and my variation will be back, then I can start looking for the hmr replacement. With the cases that SPARKIE did for me, I have to fire form them, then trim the length before reloading again. Get yourself a CZ 527 Varmint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 easily done mick....i form the length and neck...aneal...all you have to do is reduce ya load by 1 grain and load them. they will than come out the shape of ya chamber. just trim to length and use as you would any other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Can they be shot as regular bullets or do I need to plug the case with some form of wadding? Please PM me a price for doing 200 please sparkie, thank you for your PMs too Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 yes they can be loaded and shot as normal bullets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Anneal before you start and again before first loading. I have recently formed 100 RWS 17 Hornet cases from 22 Hornet brass and lost 2, both to my own stupidity. Annealing is the secret, when I bought the rifle 3 loads was all that could be got out of a case due to neck splits mainly, since annealing I loose no more than a handfull a year mainly due to head seperation which I suspect is a rim thickness problem. Rifle was built for RWS brass, I used Remmy as it was all I could get at the time. However I now have some RWS ready. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 I often read of people shooting bunnies with deer cal rifles. Funny every time I do it head shots even break the back legs often exploding the body 22 hornet is fine I don't shoot the 17 but have read it's more of a meat spoiler.dont know though as I don't shoot one I refer you to the above deer cal experiences on what you can read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outdoorsman Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Ive just watched the guard dog actual video that is mentioned some where in here ive laughed my back off all the way through at the sub titles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Regarding the resizing of .22 Hornet cases down to .17 Hornet, please note that .22 Hornet PPU cases are longer than standard .17 cases, so need to be trimmed before they can be fire formed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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