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used hatch back?


dunganick
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Focus tdci ( NOT the turbo diesel version ) on a Y plate should be no more than 3k with 75k on the clock. as a guide but not a place to buy from try cargiant.co.uk Nick, that way you can compare mileage, body styles etc. Autotrader on line is a good way to gauge prices then try confused.com for insurance quotes, far better than the annoying elephant ad` and that stupid nodding dog.

Common rail diesel engines offer top performance with good fuel economy.

Have a word with LB he will see you right :stupid:

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I help sell a fleet of over 65,000 vehs in UK prices quoted seem a bit absurd to say the least. Discount is always available from most manus, our speciality is commercials, if I can help please PM. Bought her indoors a 05 corsa 1.3CDTI SXI 3 door 5 door in met silver with 3000 miles for 5350 does 55mpg.

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I help sell a fleet of over 65,000 vehs in UK prices quoted seem a bit absurd to say the least.

 

Had a mate who used to do similar work...when the focus st170 came out it retailed (with options) at £21K - he could get them for ~£12K!! :stupid:

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Hi,

 

Just noticed your thread, you may or not be interested but a friend on mine has a 2004 04 Plate 1.25 Lx Fiesta which I think has only about 17K miles on it. Think they are only insurance group 3.

 

Think he wants about £4000-£4250 for it if I remember correctly.

 

Drop me a pm if you are interested.

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Focus tdci ( NOT the turbo diesel version ) on a Y plate should be no more than 3k with 75k on the clock. as a guide but not a place to buy from try cargiant.co.uk Nick, that way you can compare mileage, body styles etc. Autotrader on line is a good way to gauge prices then try confused.com for insurance quotes, far better than the annoying elephant ad` and that stupid nodding dog.

Common rail diesel engines offer top performance with good fuel economy.

Have a word with LB he will see you right :stupid:

 

ive been browsing car giant, they sell clean cars, but they are about £400 over priced, talked to LB and he is giving me a hand. Unfortunatly i know how good diesels are as my clio was/is one. Just not bolted together like german/jap cars.

 

cheers for help guys, much appreciated, may be in touch with some of you :good:

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The French can't build cars, the Germans, can.

 

having said which i honestly cant fault my clio reliability wise, yes teh doors didnt shut with the same nice noise as a VW or seat and the interia was rubbish, but it was mechanically faultless. The little DCI pulled exceptionally well for its HP and i and so anoyed its gone now. Just hope the insurance company pays out fairly.

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Just hope the insurance company pays out fairly.

 

Good luck Nick. Theres a first time for everything!!!!!!!

:stupid: just make sure you go for him and don't except ANY of the blame. As if they think you have done it whoooa for your next premium! Nick if you don't mind me asking what were you paying on your old car? I am 20, done pass plus but no NCB and drive a £2k ford Ka 1.3 and do 10k miles costs me £1200 big ones a year :good: How about you?

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Regarding the Ford KA, we have one, I drive a Mercedes and the wife has the KA, all I can say I was amazed just how good the KA is, economical, quick and handles like a go cart, our car also has alloy wheels, air con, leather interior, CD player ........... for a small economoical car you can not go wrong and I dont mind driving it.

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Quintin Wilson off the tele used to rave about the Ford Ka. He would buy a used one of about 9-12 months old for his daughter/wife to use, keep it for 4-5 months and then sell it for no less than a £100 under what he'd bought it for. No servicing costs, always in warranty and always easy to move on. :stupid:

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Just hope the insurance company pays out fairly.

 

Good luck Nick. Theres a first time for everything!!!!!!!

:stupid: just make sure you go for him and don't except ANY of the blame. As if they think you have done it whoooa for your next premium! Nick if you don't mind me asking what were you paying on your old car? I am 20, done pass plus but no NCB and drive a £2k ford Ka 1.3 and do 10k miles costs me £1200 big ones a year :good: How about you?

 

almost double that, sucks being 18 with 0 NCB, had this van driving mong now pulled out across me then i would be looking at 1 year NCB in 2 months.

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nearly double 1200?:stupid:

 

HOLY **** :o

 

I pity you youngsters these days, I don't feel so bad about my premiums now :good:

 

its so bad in your first year, that come my renewal, if i get stung for this accident (i.e get loaded) then my premium will actually go down £300 just because i will have 1 year of driving experiance (albeit still 0 NCB)

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Doesn't seem to make any sense, I insure an A4, Pajero and Punto for under £800 - how can what they charge you be proportional? :good:

 

As people have said make sure you get that insurance company over a barrel mate, take them for every single penny, you've damn sure paid for the privilege :stupid:

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makes financhial sense unfortunatly. 1 in 2 young drivers crash in first year, so on a 4.5K car they charge me basically half the value of the car, therefor covering their costs if i become a statistic. I know its not that simple but its the general idea of it.

 

But buying a good first car which is safe just dosent pay, have a friend who pays 1500 fully comp on his car as it is worth £750 and is a lower insurance group.

 

Its basically legal robbery as i really dont want a rubbish car, as im pretty sure if i was driving a 106 or something along those lines i would have been hurt in my crash, which my car handled pretty well. Just its costing a bomb to put right..... hense probably going to be a write off.

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When the insurance assessor makes you an offer for the value of your car (assuming it's a write off) it will be much lower than you'll be expecting, usually 30-50% below - the assessor gets paid to protect the insurance company's cost liability not to help you - it is way they play the game.

 

You are not oblieged to accept it, though. His offer will be based on the lowest possible estimate he can give, but it should reflect the the true value/cost of a replace vehicle of the same make/model/age and condition of your car. It is up to you to do your homework and know the true value/cost. Don't simply reply on saying "I think it worth more", search internet car sites and print off copies of prices' for your model. Get motor trade mags; TVT, Auto-Trader etc to back up your claim, ask him to prove the bases of his offer and if it doesn't come close stick to guns because the insurance company does have to make a fair market offer.

 

 

 

Good luck!

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When the insurance assessor makes you an offer for the value of your car (assuming it's a write off) it will be much lower than you'll be expecting, usually 30-50% below - the assessor gets paid to protect the insurance company's cost liability not to help you - it is way they play the game.

 

You are not oblieged to accept it, though. His offer will be based on the lowest possible estimate he can give, but it should reflect the the true value/cost of a replace vehicle of the same make/model/age and condition of your car. It is up to you to do your homework and know the true value/cost. Don't simply reply on saying "I think it worth more", search internet car sites and print off copies of prices' for your model. Get motor trade mags; TVT, Auto-Trader etc to back up your claim, ask him to prove the bases of his offer and if it doesn't come close stick to guns because the insurance company does have to make a fair market offer.

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

:stupid:

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When the insurance assessor makes you an offer for the value of your car (assuming it's a write off) it will be much lower than you'll be expecting, usually 30-50% below - the assessor gets paid to protect the insurance company's cost liability not to help you - it is way they play the game.

 

You are not oblieged to accept it, though. His offer will be based on the lowest possible estimate he can give, but it should reflect the the true value/cost of a replace vehicle of the same make/model/age and condition of your car. It is up to you to do your homework and know the true value/cost. Don't simply reply on saying "I think it worth more", search internet car sites and print off copies of prices' for your model. Get motor trade mags; TVT, Auto-Trader etc to back up your claim, ask him to prove the bases of his offer and if it doesn't come close stick to guns because the insurance company does have to make a fair market offer.

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

cheers for the tip, how likely are they to give me what my car is actually worth in the real world?

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