daddypigsaw Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Does anyone else struggle cleaning cartridge fouling in the barrel on their Beretta Urika AL391? It seems to be really stubborn just past the chamber, I think it's the forcing cone. It seems to take forever to get it back to its original shiny state. I've tried Parker Hale 005 and the stuff that came with my cleaning kit. I've tried soaking it for 20minutes, scrubbing it from dry, patches and using a chamber brush. It puts me right off using it at all, knowing I've got to spend best part of an hour banging away at it with the bronze brush. Grrr! My Miroku comes up clean no problem, so why is the Beretta any different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 No bother at all for me. Are you using fibre or plastic wads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddypigsaw Posted May 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Plastic, I'm afraid. Shooting clay mainly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Plastic are better in this respect, less fouling. I have owned a 391 and never had that trouble. Mind I hardly ever cleaned it and it never missed a beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the last engineer Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Does anyone else struggle cleaning cartridge fouling in the barrel on their Beretta Urika AL391? It seems to be really stubborn just past the chamber, I think it's the forcing cone. It seems to take forever to get it back to its original shiny state. I've tried Parker Hale 005 and the stuff that came with my cleaning kit. I've tried soaking it for 20minutes, scrubbing it from dry, patches and using a chamber brush. It puts me right off using it at all, knowing I've got to spend best part of an hour banging away at it with the bronze brush. Grrr! My Miroku comes up clean no problem, so why is the Beretta any different? you may have one of the barrels without a finished forcing cone, when you have it cleaned does it look like a stack of rings in the cone only area ? if so this indicates the lack of polish, there should be a smooth transition from chamber to barrel ,this being the forcing cone, take a mop with some polishing rouge, not to much and basicaly hone out the cone ramp area this will reduce the finish in the material and take the "peaks and valleys" out to a smoother finish, this will reduce the amount of drag your getting on the plastic as it leaves the chamber, depending on how long you polish will greatly increase the finish, almost to a mirror, remember forcing cone only, the barrel is backbored and hard chromed so you wont hurt it, the chamber isnt, be aware you are only removing microns of material at a time. any more questions ask away. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Plastic are better in this respect, less fouling. Sure about that? Fibre leaves more **** but it's easily shifted, I was thinking that hot barrels plus plastic would leave a deposit somewhat harder too shift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I'm no expert Lurch, only going on personal experience this last 9 months or so - I would certainly say plastics are cleaner. Mind, when I clean the gun, which is about 9/10 after I use it (ejectors out, the lot) I don't have any real problem removing fouling from either. I don't use fibre anywhere near as much as I use plastic and if I had to say what was dirtier I would certainly say fibre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunganick Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 i personally dont see what all this cleaning buisness is about. Rarely bother these days unless i am not shooting for a few weeks. our 391 has been fine btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I probably cleaned the 391 3 times in 6 months. If it was raining I wiped it down with an oily cloth. Bought for £600 sold for £600 after 3000 carts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodmedod.one Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Plastic are better in this respect, less fouling. Sure about that? Fibre leaves more **** but it's easily shifted, I was thinking that hot barrels plus plastic would leave a deposit somewhat harder too shift. I agree. My AYA No. 1 suffers badly from plastic wad fouling. If I use fibre wads, it stays clean as a whistle. i personally dont see what all this cleaning buisness is about. Rarely bother these days unless i am not shooting for a few weeks. our 391 has been fine btw. I don't know....the youth of today etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beatingisbest Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Plastic are better in this respect, less fouling. Sure about that? Fibre leaves more **** but it's easily shifted, I was thinking that hot barrels plus plastic would leave a deposit somewhat harder too shift. I agree. My AYA No. 1 suffers badly from plastic wad fouling. If I use fibre wads, it stays clean as a whistle. i personally dont see what all this cleaning buisness is about. Rarely bother these days unless i am not shooting for a few weeks. our 391 has been fine btw. I don't know....the youth of today etc etc An AYA no1! I bet that set you back quite a bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the last engineer Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 i personally dont see what all this cleaning buisness is about. Rarely bother these days unless i am not shooting for a few weeks. our 391 has been fine btw. your kinda right Nick, but dont forget not all guns are made exactly the same, the tolerance and finish will vary on the majority of "off the shelf: guns, this one may be the one that slipped through Q.C. radar, as with a lot of my guns there are a few little finnicky things you do to customize fit and feel, this is no different, ifit was in the chokesits a cans of removal and clean, this is internal therefore requires a little elbow grease first, trust me the rouge works and will aleviate the problem . looking at Pins post, i think hes cleaned his more than i have, from new ive only wiped it over, not once cl;eaned out the port or barrel, many thousand through it too, great gun for fun Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goldfish Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I find plastic leaves a nasty thick plastic coating at the cone but fibre leaves the whole barrel dirty but its easy to clean out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlaserF3 Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I use WD40 when my barrels get coated with plaswads and it's around the forcing cone as well. Give it a squirt then wire brush just a couple of strokes,leave for five minutes,give it another brush then put some folded up kitchen towel, which should be given a spray of WD before rodding it through the bore and all being well the bore should be clean. If not do it again,it does work should take about ten mins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I've never had to persevere that much. If I think I have "bad" fouling I soak and prefer to leave the chemicals do the work. I have never spent more than 2 minutes putting the different rods through any gun I have owned and never had a problem. To quantify that, I have only owned shotguns 10 months which probably isn't enough time for them to rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunganick Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 i personally dont see what all this cleaning buisness is about. Rarely bother these days unless i am not shooting for a few weeks. our 391 has been fine btw. your kinda right Nick, but dont forget not all guns are made exactly the same, the tolerance and finish will vary on the majority of "off the shelf: guns, this one may be the one that slipped through Q.C. radar, as with a lot of my guns there are a few little finnicky things you do to customize fit and feel, this is no different, ifit was in the chokesits a cans of removal and clean, this is internal therefore requires a little elbow grease first, trust me the rouge works and will aleviate the problem . looking at Pins post, i think hes cleaned his more than i have, from new ive only wiped it over, not once cl;eaned out the port or barrel, many thousand through it too, great gun for fun Martin i maintain the action, out side of barrels, wood, just dont bother with barrels, most of our guns get shot often enough that cleaning the barrels is simply a time consuming and pointless task. However we do have guns which are not crome/chrome (its too late) bored which i will clean religiously. Its not a lack of respect for my gun, its a lack of feeling it is required. Each to their own hey, several years of cleaning my only shotgun everytime i use it has taught me that i dont like cleaning shotguns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 I clean my 686 because I like cleaning it, not because the barrels need it The only bit you NEED to deal with on these is the facing between the action and barrels. Leave the rest and it won't make much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddypigsaw Posted May 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Thanks everyone for all the advice. It seems I may have opened a can of worms regarding cleaning frequency and what parts are maintained. I'll try some of the methods suggested and see how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 I've never had to persevere that much. If I think I have "bad" fouling I soak and prefer to leave the chemicals do the work. I have never spent more than 2 minutes putting the different rods through any gun I have owned and never had a problem. To quantify that, I have only owned shotguns 10 months which probably isn't enough time for them to rust Its definitely long enough to rust. I have to say my auto gets cleaned very infrequently and performs faultlessly despite having had a lot of use. Just gets a wipe down with an oily rag and probably once a year has a proper clean. Even then the port never seems that bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bedpan39 Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Do what I do lad, con yer father into cleaning your guns. Saves hours !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter-peter Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Does anyone else struggle cleaning cartridge fouling in the barrel on their Beretta Urika AL391? It seems to be really stubborn just past the chamber, I think it's the forcing cone. It seems to take forever to get it back to its original shiny state. I've tried Parker Hale 005 and the stuff that came with my cleaning kit. I've tried soaking it for 20minutes, scrubbing it from dry, patches and using a chamber brush. It puts me right off using it at all, knowing I've got to spend best part of an hour banging away at it with the bronze brush. Grrr! My Miroku comes up clean no problem, so why is the Beretta any different? wait till its really bad then soak your bronze brush in solvent i find youngs is good. stick your brush in your battery drill and bingo out it comes. trouble with pushing the brush you go the same way as the lead I always finish with a boresnake Does anyone else struggle cleaning cartridge fouling in the barrel on their Beretta Urika AL391? It seems to be really stubborn just past the chamber, I think it's the forcing cone. It seems to take forever to get it back to its original shiny state. I've tried Parker Hale 005 and the stuff that came with my cleaning kit. I've tried soaking it for 20minutes, scrubbing it from dry, patches and using a chamber brush. It puts me right off using it at all, knowing I've got to spend best part of an hour banging away at it with the bronze brush. Grrr! My Miroku comes up clean no problem, so why is the Beretta any different? you may have one of the barrels without a finished forcing cone, when you have it cleaned does it look like a stack of rings in the cone only area ? if so this indicates the lack of polish, there should be a smooth transition from chamber to barrel ,this being the forcing cone, take a mop with some polishing rouge, not to much and basicaly hone out the cone ramp area this will reduce the finish in the material and take the "peaks and valleys" out to a smoother finish, this will reduce the amount of drag your getting on the plastic as it leaves the chamber, depending on how long you polish will greatly increase the finish, almost to a mirror, remember forcing cone only, the barrel is backbored and hard chromed so you wont hurt it, the chamber isnt, be aware you are only removing microns of material at a time. any more questions ask away. Martin its a 391 urika its only got one barrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the last engineer Posted May 26, 2007 Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 its a 391 urika its only got one barrel ?:(? and you point was ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.