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land rover defender tidy up


viking
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Correct.

Backlash is often the splined hubs wearing. Splines on the shafts tend to be harder.

 

i did hear that to, but it seems to be coming from the gearbox area so went for that first, if its not that then i will investigate the hubs :good:

Keep this up and you'll not be taking it off road as it'll get dirty and scratched :rolleyes:

thinking that already :lol:

 

 

What is underneath this KBX Hi Force vent top ??

the wing :yahoo::yahoo:

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so, took the land rover to my mates garages along with the output shaft and told him to crack on, told him to ring me when he had the old one out as if it wasnt sheared and still tight then it probably wouldnt be that ant there would be no point fitting a £160 part for no reason, phone rings at 2pm, he said iv been for a good long drive in it and he could not really hear the noise, and when he did he said it wasnt really coming from where i thought it was, even though in my eyes (ears) it defiantly is, he then said iv not done anything with it as it wouldnt really go on his lift as its to big and he said it would probably be a day and a halfs labour, even though the garage over the road from me said 4-5 hours,so even if he did do it at thet time and mates rates it will still of been cheaper to take it over the road at £50 + VAT ph. so now were back to the point where i dont know what to do,

 

on a brighter note, as i said the suspension is now a lot better but there were still a banging noise at the back when i went over bumps that always sounded like the back door some how, so yesterday i took the spare wheel off and went for a drive, noise still there, went back home and took the back door off, went form a drive and there was no noise, after a fer fags and a lot of thinking id worked out the back door was sat a little proud when shut and that it may off been rattling on the catch, so took the catch off that the door latches, drilled the holes out to make them longer so i could set it 5mm further back to try draw the door in a bit, did all that and went for a drive, BINGO, no more noise :yahoo::yahoo:

just need my backlash sorting out now then were just about done, new sills ordered and getting painted this week some time :good::good:

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If I was you I would be taking each prop off and driving it to see!

I chased a clunk in mine for ages, kept checking the props in situ and couldn't find any play. As soon as I took them off I found a small amount of play in the uj's and output bearing on the transfer box. It was only small and couldn't really feel it all bolted up and on the ground.

A set of uj's and a bearing job sorted!!

I had a auto disco 2 that clunked too, the garages couldn't find anything! Removed the props on that and found it straight away

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If I was you I would be taking each prop off and driving it to see!

I chased a clunk in mine for ages, kept checking the props in situ and couldn't find any play. As soon as I took them off I found a small amount of play in the uj's and output bearing on the transfer box. It was only small and couldn't really feel it all bolted up and on the ground.

A set of uj's and a bearing job sorted!!

I had a auto disco 2 that clunked too, the garages couldn't find anything! Removed the props on that and found it straight away

so if i take the front prop off and drive it and see if it does it, then take back prop off and see if its that one, ill maybe find its one of them, then if it is its lightly the uj's or and or the output bearing

....turn the radio up and let it develop?

tried that, i can still feel it, :yes:

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so if i take the front prop off and drive it and see if it does it, then take back prop off and see if its that one, ill maybe find its one of them, then if it is its lightly the uj's or and or the output bearing

tried that, i can still feel it, :yes:

Yep that's the quickest easiest way, remove front drive in diff lock. That will then eliminate either the front or back axel and prop.

If you do the rear make sure the nuts are on the handbreak drum!! It could get expensive otherwise

When the prop is off check the uj's for any movement and I mean any!! I have seen on some that have been replaced the bores on the prop were butchered so a new part would never solve the problem.

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thats a kind offer thanks, see you round here about 8am :lol::lol::lol: ditchie is coming too :yahoo::yahoo:

 

im with you on the diff lock :good: even thought iv owned land rovers/discos now for the last 10 years i still dont know what the diff lock is for, thats hard for me to have to admit but there you go :no::no:

Edited by viking
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Get out on some boggy fields you will soon learn what it's for!!! There are some really good military videos on YouTube explaining it and the situations it's used. A worth while watch.

 

If you like shiney new tools there is a proper tool for the prop, it makes it an absolute doddle. Take a look on the evil bay

 

Stick kettle on, I'll show you lot how to make a proper cup!!!

 

Given the colour of ditchmans tea in his air rifle thread it would be a lesson well learned!!

Edited by R1nut
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cant beat yorkshire tea mate :good::good:

i thought taking the prop off was about 6 bolts, thats what i remember from my series 3, i guess things have moved on since 1982 :lol:

 

so if i take the front prop off and the noise stops what does that mean, and what does it mean if it doesnt, just having trouble getting my head round it at the moment not being overly mechanically minded, i some times need things explaining it great detail :good::good: to youtube it is then

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I'll give you that one, Yorkshire tea is pretty good here with our hard water!

 

If taking the front prop off sorts it there are a few things to check, first the uj's. Hold the prop firm and wiggle the flange side to side and back to front, feeling for movement. Only slight movement will cause more of a vibration, if they are sloppy they will clunk.

Next the flange on the diff, there will be backlash in this so turn it prob 1/4 turn either way till firm then feel for movement or worn bearings. I have heard of pumas with far to much backlash causing a clunk. If that's the case the diff needs a fettle

Next is transfer box, same as the diff, looking for a loose flange or output bearing. You might experience backlash again, this will be rotational movement, a worn bearing will feel a up and down movement, sky and floor so to speak!

Then a crow bar and give the gearbox and engine mounts a good wiggle, and all the bushes you can find! Give them some grief if something has worn it will soon be apparent.

Repeat for the rear, DONT FORGET the nuts on the handbrake drum!!

 

From experience of driving pumas the gear box from new are a bit clunky. Given yours has a remap and by the look of the add ons possibly a younger driver maybe it's been driven without sympathy. I find to get a smooth drive you have to be a little slower on the clutch and gear changes, it's just the nature of the beast!!

Mine has had a map and it can feel a bit harsh, I have let a few people drive it that normally drive cars and my head was like a s@@t on a stick

I had a new one booked at landrover and on the test drive even the sales bloke commented how clunky the box felt.

Edited by R1nut
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cheers mate i understand that now, ill give it all a good going over tomorrow and see if i can see whats what, iv heard off a few people that there a but clunky, and im getting more used to the slow gear change and being gentle on letting the clutch up, even though thats how i drive as a rule, went shooting today and its 15 mile away and in the hole 30 mile round trip i got it down to 1 clunk and that was changing down from 3rd to 2nd coming onto a roundabout where i had to act a bit lively, that coupled with no noise coming from the back end ment i was driving with a smile on my face for the first time in 4 weeks :good::good:

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It will come clear when you are under there. Just treat it like a good woman, pay attention to detail and caress all over!!!

I know what you mean about the back door, there is a roundabout here with rumble strips approaching it. Shakes the hell out of mine.

I had to do the same to the catch, a swing away wheel carrier is on the shopping list. Hopefully that will lighten the door so I don't have to keep adjusting it

To a certain degree they are all a bit unrefined, learn to love it for the agricultural vehicle it is. It's worlds apart from your disco especially if you still have air bags. Really miss my discovery but it didn't make me smile like the fender!

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well today didnt go to plan really, first job was to take front wheels off and check half shafs and flanges, couldnt get the nuts off and had no big bar, then got underneath to look at dropping the front prop shaft, got a load of dusty mud in my eye so ****** it off in anger, will try again tomorrow after work :good::good:

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and although iv never normally been a fan, iv seen a few with these on and they look nice, so ordered some to see what they look like, if i dont like them i can send them back,

the KBX wing tops, and the wing side vent, then there is the grill and light surounds, just ordered the hi force wing tops for now, i know one person who wont be pleased :lol::lol:

I saw a 110 same grey as yours with these vents on at Landranger Services in Middlewich today. It had a big black roof rack on as well.
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