dog running wild

[dockrat]

hi all i am having problems with my 17 month old cocker dog

took him out tonight started walk the set aside field got him quartering

nicely then he just took off running around following the scents no amount

of calling and blowing the recall whistle had any effect but the stop whistle

worked he stoped on the spot but would not return to heel when i aproched

him he would move on and start running again after half an hour of this i jumped

in the car and drove off making sure he had seen me he came running after the car

thats when i was able to get him back this is not anew problem he used to do it before

but i thought i had sorted it out by doing a lot more heel work and trying to keep him

closer to me but now i am running out of options if i was beating today he would have

flushed the whole drive in one go and i wouldnt have been asked back it is getting achore taking

him out now instead of a plesure as i dont know when he is going to do this as its geting more

regular now

[lurcherboy]

NTTF will be along shortly so listen to what he tells you.

 

 

 

 

LB

[Paul in North Lincs.]

could there be a bitch in season somewhere?...................................

 

I no expert but I would go back to basics......he'll soon learn when he has to walk on a lead for a week that running off is unacceptable.......

[Cranfield]

Get the long lead out again.

[dusk2dawn]

Get a real dog........ cant beat a Lab :o

 

D2D

[Millomite]

Try and do it in an enclosed area, or small area and gradually work up

[MC]

If he ignores a command then get out there and make sure he does it, don't just stand there blowing a whistle or telling him to come.

 

Go back to basics and get the recall 100%, start at a close distance and work up so he will return from any distance. It may sound harsh but it is not meant to be. If you make it fun and he gets plenty of praise and rewards he will always return to you.

 

You just need to be more interesting than whatever he is doing.

[new to the flock]

hi all i am having problems with my 17 month old cocker dog

took him out tonight started walk the set aside field got him quartering

nicely then he just took off running around following the scents no amount

of calling and blowing the recall whistle had any effect but the stop whistle

worked he stoped on the spot but would not return to heel when i aproched

him he would move on and start running again after half an hour of this i jumped

in the car and drove off making sure he had seen me he came running after the car

thats when i was able to get him back this is not anew problem he used to do it before

but i thought i had sorted it out by doing a lot more heel work and trying to keep him

closer to me but now i am running out of options if i was beating today he would have

flushed the whole drive in one go and i wouldnt have been asked back it is getting achore taking

him out now instead of a plesure as i dont know when he is going to do this as its geting more

regular now

 

dockrat,

 

How is his obediance when on a lead in the following :

 

a) short grass?

 

six inches of say hay field or the like?

 

c) full cover?

 

 

Also do you have 100' drag line?

 

NTTF

[dockrat]

hi nttf and all he is good on the lead in all cover with his nose down its when i let him off in longish stuff that he goes mad

martin have you ever tryed to catch a cocker who is running around at full pelt and when you get near him just takes off again you must be a lot younger and fitter but i know what you mean he will come back in his own good time when he has had enough most of the time he knows exactly what the pips on the whistle mean he just ignors them treats dont work hand signals he knows to when he does come back i cant punish him or i will give him the wrong impresion i do have a long line and he will be on it for time being . his hunting is good he marks woodys on the nest tree rats and birds in the brambles has got a good nose will just have to keep him closer to me until he gets the message.that want him 15 yards not 150 but thanks for that its my fault for haveing him ff the lead to much but thats about to change

[MC]

Not catch a cocker no, but I have a 2 year old springer. You don't necessarily need to catch him, just let him know that if he doesn't do as he is told you will go after him.

 

I was taught to throw his lead at him, not to hit him but just to make him think that however far away he is, he is not going to get away with anything.

 

If you want to work him 15 yds away then get on his case when he goes over 20yds away. Don't let him get to 150yds, flushing a bird at that range is no good to anyone.

 

I wouldn't say that I am younger or fitter than you but if you don't let him get too far away you don't need to run far.

[new to the flock]

Dockrat,

 

If this were my dog I would be combining to different training techniques. First off I would be using a long line that allowed me atleast twice the length of what I wanted her to work at. This would allow me the extra line to always allow me to be able to lift the line and make a correction. I would be sure to work her quartering, her distance, and her recalls to the whistle. This period will reinforce the exercises and commands that she knows with the long line.

 

At the same time I would have an electronic collar on her for these training sessions. The collar would be worn, but not turned on during the long line exercises. The collar would be there for the dog to get use to and comfortable with.......and yes it needs to be the actual collar so that the dog gets use to the exact weight and feel .......After two weeks, and after I had determined the correct level of stimulation, I would turn the collar on and run the same exercises again with the long lead....the differance is, at the exact same time I was making the long line correction I would also transmit a signal to the collar. As the pop on the long line is less than a second when delivered properly I would use the momontary stimulation feature of the collar. This will be about the same length of time. This period will once again reienforce the exercises and commands that she knows to the whistle with both forms of correction...the long line and the collar.

 

After two weeks I would cut her loose with just the collar on and work the corrections needed to the whistle. Chances are that you will not need to transmit a signal or will only have to do a couple of corrections. I would once again work this exercise for two weeks in as many areas and in as much cover as well as game presance as possible. At the end of this two weeks you should have a dog that is 100% reliable to the whistle and will not ignor you as she will realise that yes you can correct at 50 feet without chasing, yelling, or throwing things to do so.

 

NTTF

[dockrat]

Dockrat,

 

If this were my dog I would be combining to different training techniques. First off I would be using a long line that allowed me atleast twice the length of what I wanted her to work at. This would allow me the extra line to always allow me to be able to lift the line and make a correction. I would be sure to work her quartering, her distance, and her recalls to the whistle. This period will reinforce the exercises and commands that she knows with the long line.

 

At the same time I would have an electronic collar on her for these training sessions. The collar would be worn, but not turned on during the long line exercises. The collar would be there for the dog to get use to and comfortable with.......and yes it needs to be the actual collar so that the dog gets use to the exact weight and feel .......After two weeks, and after I had determined the correct level of stimulation, I would turn the collar on and run the same exercises again with the long lead....the differance is, at the exact same time I was making the long line correction I would also transmit a signal to the collar. As the pop on the long line is less than a second when delivered properly I would use the momontary stimulation feature of the collar. This will be about the same length of time. This period will once again reienforce the exercises and commands that she knows to the whistle with both forms of correction...the long line and the collar.

 

After two weeks I would cut her loose with just the collar on and work the corrections needed to the whistle. Chances are that you will not need to transmit a signal or will only have to do a couple of corrections. I would once again work this exercise for two weeks in as many areas and in as much cover as well as game presance as possible. At the end of this two weeks you should have a dog that is 100% reliable to the whistle and will not ignor you as she will realise that yes you can correct at 50 feet without chasing, yelling, or throwing things to do so.

 

NTTF

thanks for thathave had him on lead now for two days just normal walks will try your method but will have to order an e collar have already sent for some brouchers to find out more about them but will start with your method this week as i am on nights so have most of the day some freinds have also said e collar would help sort him out its my fault for letting him range to far and not jumping on him from the start but people say he is only young so i have let him get away with it and created my own problems but hopfully i can turn him round thanks once again