Fitting gun cabinet.

[ritz]

I have a newly built house with paper walls... ok ok not quite paper but you get what I mean.. if you press it with your finger you put a hole through it... stupid new houses... anyway what do I do about bolting the safe onto that?? no mortar/bricks to dril into ?

 

 

sorry is it a timber framed house?

No not at all, its just got no brik inside walls, the ourside walls are brick, but inside its all plasterboard walls... I can probably use some self tapping stuf... but that won't hold it even in the slightest...

Not sure about the rules on having to have it boltd onto something...

[Gully]

You'll have to attach it to an outside wall then.

[squintshot]

I have a newly built house with paper walls... ok ok not quite paper but you get what I mean.. if you press it with your finger you put a hole through it... stupid new houses... anyway what do I do about bolting the safe onto that?? no mortar/bricks to dril into ?

 

 

You can try and find the studs that the plaster is attached to, they should be at about 400mm centers then fasten a sturdy sheet of ply or flooring sheet to the studs and fix your cabinet to the board also fasten it through the floor if it is drilled to allow this.

 

Hope it helps

 

Squint

[jimlsd]

you will need to find the studs which will be either 400mm centres or 600mm centres then you will need to cut out the plasterboard 4" taller than your cabinet and "half on the studs" then you need to add 4"x2" framing horizontaly at the height the bolts need to be then you need to refit the plasterboard and tape/fill it. then you can fix your cabinet with coach screws/bolts. DO NOT fix ply to the wall then the cabinet as i dont think that will be acceptable. any questions send me a pm....

 

ATB,

jim

[crisis500]

Guys,

 

While we are on the subject i just ordered a Brattonsound gun safe and the fixings turned up yesterday, 12mm is written on the bolts and metal plugs. Now do i need a 12 mm drillbit or smaller?

[jimlsd]

Guys,

 

While we are on the subject i just ordered a Brattonsound gun safe and the fixings turned up yesterday, 12mm is written on the bolts and metal plugs. Now do i need a 12 mm drillbit or smaller?

 

 

you will need a 12mm bit..... i would use a 6mm or 8mm to start with then take it up to 12mm it saves time and effort

[crisis500]

Thats good news as i have bought a 12

 

cheers mates

[mr_colt]

I would like to add that if anyone on here is a tenant like me; Your landlord is unlikely to grant permission if you have to use chemical fixings as the things can never be removed once fitted. So you are likely to lose your deposit for the need of having your guns at home.

 

Best thing to do is make sure you are not on a shorthold tenancy before fitting the cabinet. Nothing worse than spending a lot of money on fitting a cabinet only to find out a few months later that your landloard has given you notice.

 

cassatt.

[Muddy Funker]

While on the subject i've just fitted a 3 gun Infac cabinet i bought 2nd hand off ebay a couple of weeks ago, its in excellent condition and is fitted in my bedroom wardrobe on a dividing wall to the house next door solid as a rock.

Just one thing, there is no BS Mark on it.

This was a concern when i handed over the money but the guy said it was only three years old and passed all relevent checks when he had the visit.

Do i have any reason to worry? or does that BS mark not have to be there?

[cartridge]

i have the feo coming round soon brought a 2/3 gun safe off winterfield safes

[Cushat]

While on the subject i've just fitted a 3 gun Infac cabinet i bought 2nd hand off ebay a couple of weeks ago, its in excellent condition and is fitted in my bedroom wardrobe on a dividing wall to the house next door solid as a rock.

Just one thing, there is no BS Mark on it.

This was a concern when i handed over the money but the guy said it was only three years old and passed all relevent checks when he had the visit.

Do i have any reason to worry? or does that BS mark not have to be there?

 

 

Doesn't have to be to BS by law - should be fine as long as it's solid, 5 lever locks etc. Home office guidance on storage is available on the BASC website and goes into the detail.

 

EDIT

 

Here you go: http://police.homeoffice.gov.uk/news-and-p...pdf?view=Binary

[Muddy Funker]

While on the subject i've just fitted a 3 gun Infac cabinet i bought 2nd hand off ebay a couple of weeks ago, its in excellent condition and is fitted in my bedroom wardrobe on a dividing wall to the house next door solid as a rock.

Just one thing, there is no BS Mark on it.

This was a concern when i handed over the money but the guy said it was only three years old and passed all relevent checks when he had the visit.

Do i have any reason to worry? or does that BS mark not have to be there?

 

 

Doesn't have to be to BS by law - should be fine as long as it's solid, 5 lever locks etc. Home office guidance on storage is available on the BASC website and goes into the detail.

 

EDIT

 

Here you go: http://police.homeoffice.gov.uk/news-and-p...pdf?view=Binary

 

Nice one Cushat thanks for the reply, will check out the link B)

[ritz]

IM thinking of getting this

simply because its lightweight and I will probably have to mount in my roof...

here is a list of the safe's ( free delivery woooot)

Il just get myself a cheap smaller safe for the cartridges B)

[dalby1988]

have you tried making the holes bigger and useing expanding wall bolts i had the same problem when i tried to use the same bolts as you and then i used m10 expanding wall bolts and there is no chance that the cabinet could be moved

[CBL]

Hello all - I am relatively new on here, but have been browsing for some time. Resurrecting a thread as I could do with some advice.

 

I have purchased a Brattonsound 6/7 extra deep gunsafe and am also wondering how to affix it (quite heavy - 45kg). I have read a lot of online instructions, but being a complete novice on DIY, would appreciate some guidance. The gunsafe would be adhering to an internal brick wall (albeit an old victorian wall). I was planning on the following -

 

- drilling 12mm holes in the wall to allow them to take the rawl bolts which I believe come with the gunsafe

- insert resin (small amt of something like no nails) in the holes to aid securing of bolts (IS THIS NEEDED?)

- affix to wall by threading bolts through holes in rear of cabinet

 

Would appreciate some guidance as to whether this will result in the cabinet falling off the wall onto me!! Because of a high skirting board (app 17cm high), I am likely going to have to lift the cabinet off the ground as it cannot be cut out (wiring around).

 

One final alternative I have considered to ensure the cabinet is flush ; placing 2cm depth boarding across the internal wall, affixed with no nails, which would then allow the cabinet to be placed flush to the skirting board AND wall (as well as the floor)??

 

I ideally want to (one day) be able to remove the cabinet when I move.

 

Thanks anyone.

Edited April 4, 2009 by CBL

[Andy H]

If you are going to use wall anchoring bolts make sure you get sleeve anchors and not shield anchors or through bolts although not as strong as shield/through anchors they will work if you manage to drill into the frog of the brick (the cavity in the base of the brick), And if you want to use chemical anchor studs try to put at least two normal wall fixings in first and then drill the wall through the holes in the back of the cabinet then if you use the wall resin that is in a type of mastic gun with a mixing nozzle you will have to put the resin in all of the holes at once and then put the studs/threaded rod in and let it set then tighten up , If you delay in using the resin in the tube it will harden in the mixing tube in about 10 min's and you will need a spare mixer nozzle.

[Guest topshot_2k]

i dont see why you need any resin on solid walls??? drill the correct size hole for the plugs, tap them in and then put the screws in? mine are about 6" in the wall and i can hang off it

[reddan]

I used 4 x 3" bolts with expanding sleeves, I had to hammer them into the wall in the first place. Didnt use any fix as I was told that you would have to dig them out of the wall if you wanted to move the cabinet. Inside the cabinet I put big penny washers on the bolts, just in case!

 

I was swinging off the cabinet infront of the FAO to prove it was well fixed (plus I was quite proud of how over engineered it was).

 

Only thing is I now have to move the cabinet as the spare room is soon to be used. Bolts are so tight in I think i will have to grind them down.

 

Dan

[airgunalex]

isnt there a requirement that you have to have the cabinet positioned on an external wall?

[notsosureshot]

isnt there a requirement that you have to have the cabinet positioned on an external wall?

 

No, just a substantial wall. In most modern houses this is an external wall since the internals are usually stud walls/partitions and have no solid structure to them/are non-load bearing. In many old houses, interal walls are breeze/brick so its not a problem. However, my FEO frowns on cupboards under the stairs as a location, since its often the case than the electricity/gas board chaps will come to read the meter there, hence exposing your cabinet to strangers but many people do this.

 

Always wise to consult your FEO before fixing anything. Most will interview you before you've fixed your cabinet. My local force (West Yorkshire) prefer this as they dont wish applicants to waste money fixing cabinets prior to approval of a certificate (their words not mine).

 

As an aside, if possble, fix a cabinet in a left hand corner, assuming the lock bolts fix right to left, it makes the cabinet harder to jemmy open.

Edited April 10, 2009 by notsosureshot

[notsosureshot]

I'll just add this.

 

Forgive me for stating what might be the obvious, but if you use resin fixings you'll never be able to remove the cabinet unless you cut the bolts or remove part of the wall. They are permanent fixtures and no matter what you do, if you make a mistake or want to move the cabinet, you've had it. Resin is stronger than the material its bonded to!

 

My house wall is partially made of what I'd call cinder block, yet I dont think its Thermalite. Its weak and crumbly, but I got away with anchor bolts. Sleeve anchors didnt work at all as they had no bite to them, I'd avoid them at all costs if you live in a new build. I ended up knocking the sleeves through into the cavity.

 

I drilled a 12mm hole with a masonry bit, which actually left a 14mm hole for the anchor bolt (as it turned out). 3 visits to the local DIY shop later, we brought home 14mm bolts and it fitted properly. Its as solid as a rock and recessed 2 inches behind the plaster skim in a new build house, after cutting out the insulation and refitting some damp proofing behind the cabinet.

 

I can detail this further if anyone wants, I completed it last week.

Edited April 10, 2009 by notsosureshot

[jsync]

I used these on a block wall:

 

http://www.cwatson.co.uk/index.html?lang=e...arget=d171.html

 

Had the visit last night with no issues.

[wildgoose1uk]

I'll just add this.

 

Forgive me for stating what might be the obvious, but if you use resin fixings you'll never be able to remove the cabinet unless you cut the bolts or remove part of the wall. They are permanent fixtures and no matter what you do, if you make a mistake or want to move the cabinet, you've had it. Resin is stronger than the material its bonded to!

 

Actually not quite true. I used resin with studs, the theory being that if I want to move the cabinet all I have to do is undo the nuts within the cabinet and gently ease the cabinet off the studs. The studs will be in the wall (thermalite) for good but at least I will be able to move the cabinet should I want to and just take an angle grinder over the studs to cut them flush with the wall.

 

At least that is the theory.......

Edited April 11, 2009 by wildgoose1uk

[bennyuk]

I very recently had a similar problem and after trying various rawl-bolts ended up using a chemi-resin with threaded rods, vas very easy to use and firearms officer was very happy with it. If I ever needed to remove it I would hacksaw the bar off flush with the wall and fill and paint, would hardly be able to notice it after. Rawl-bolts are great in newer materials but in old houses forget it.

[ferretmanabu]

I very recently had a similar problem and after trying various rawl-bolts ended up using a chemi-resin with threaded rods, vas very easy to use and firearms officer was very happy with it. If I ever needed to remove it I would hacksaw the bar off flush with the wall and fill and paint, would hardly be able to notice it after. Rawl-bolts are great in newer materials but in old houses forget it.

 

Yep. I basically used thru-bolts with some strong resin type stuff and now the cabinet is fixed solid. If I want to move the cabinet all I have to do is undo the nuts and pull the cabinet off. Four thru bolts can be left there or cut off. I just had too much trouble tying to get rawl-bolts to work because the house is over 100 years old and the holes just wouldn't drill to the right size.