Refinishing / oiling a stock

[Acerforestry]

I'm intending to refinish an old Beretta 12 bore's wood and having not previously done this, looking for recommendations for a more matt, subdued finish that won't show up every tiny scratch so much. There are so many options, London, tru oil etc etc, what should I be looking to use here please

[TIGHTCHOKE]

This range;

https://www.shootingsportsuk.co.uk/ccl-stock-oils/

[Acerforestry]

Ah, looks perfect. Thanks

[oldypigeonpopper]

Hello, If it is Walnut being a fine grain hard wood trying to hide the marks and scratches is never easy, Do i use an Oil base or Wax base, Wax may hide minor scratches but dings not so easy, Oil would not do much to either a scratch or dings, It is not something i worry about but i prefer a wax finish, i often warm up the wax on first coat and finish with normal wax then polish off

Edited December 10 by oldypigeonpopper

[ditchman]

75% ofthe job is removing the original wood coating and the preparation ...some of the coatings that are on gun stocks are next to amour plating

try and blag some of the old original paint stripper.....still able to be bought but under commercial liecence....boatyards still use it.....paint it on and wrap it in a bin bag...for an hour or so

Edited December 10 by ditchman

[Acerforestry]

Ok, equally wax may be as suitable or even more so for a dull finish, either way though the company that supplies the products offered above should be fine

[TIGHTCHOKE]

I've been using the CCL range for more years than I care to remember, it is all down to good preparation and the effort and time you put in.

Good luck.  

[Minky]

1 hour ago, ditchman said:

75% ofthe job is removing the original wood coating and the preparation.

Yep.  Its not jùst  a case of applying a bit of something because you will be wasting your time and money.  There is a sort of satin polyurethane coating that you've got to remove.  First you've got to get eye and skin protection to protect eyes and hands.  First you've  to get the wood off of the metalwork then apply a coat of nitro moors paint stripper use an old tooth  brush to work into the chequering.  DON'T use a wire brush. The existing varnish will bubble up and can be scapped and brushed off.  Wash with hot water and apply a second coat and GENTLY remove anything left.   IF the stock has absorbed any gun oil from the action and is black or darkened you could get some hot water mixed with caustic soda and rinse the wash over the wood.  Both of these operations are DANGEROUS and serious care should be taken ( NO KIDS OR DOGS ANYWHERE NEAR THIS OPERATION. AND OUTSIDE FOR VENTILATION ).  The result might leave the wood a pinkish colour.  For an indication as to what the finished result might look like you can give the wood a wipe over with white spirit.  Then the work can start to get a finish.  Use BOILED linseed oil. Plain linseed oil just leaves a STICKY FINISH that doesn't  EVER DRY. Wear a rubber type glove and apply a small amount by hand Vigourously.  Its a case of elbow grease,  when you've feel the heat in your had you're getting the  oil into the wood.  Do this until your fed up with it.  Leave it until tomorrow.  And then work it with a very fine wet and dry 1200 grade on a block with oil.   This will produce an oil sludge which will fill the grain.  Keep doing this until it looks like a  London Best even though it might be a Floor board piece of wood.  It's  a very long and boring job.

Edited December 10 by Minky

[Acerforestry]

Ok, noted. That's a pretty comprehensive how-to process

[Minky]

I have a nice sle and a friend who restores and renovates Very expensive furniture. He did the stock wood work for me.  There are lots of tricks to his trade such as using suitable coloured wax crayons worked into the grain to enhance the colour and character of the wood.  To get the best finish the oil rubbing takes many sessions over a long time.

[button]

8 hours ago, Minky said:

I have a nice sle and a friend who restores and renovates Very expensive furniture. He did the stock wood work for me.  There are lots of tricks to his trade such as using suitable coloured wax crayons worked into the grain to enhance the colour and character of the wood.  To get the best finish the oil rubbing takes many sessions over a long time.

Can you post a picture of what he did?

[Minky]

"Can you post a picture of what he did?"   sorry I didn't take any pictures but it was a relatively simple process. It just takes care and time + a lot of elbow grease. The person doing the job has to take care in regard to removing the woodwork off of the gun by using the correct size and shape of screwdriver bits so as to not damage the screw slots.  Taking notice of which screw goes in which hole and to not over tighten screws on reassembly so as to not strip out wood.  take care in regard to safety of eyes and skin.  Nitro moors and caustic soda are powerful and potentially dangerous chemicals. and contact with flesh is a no no.  No kids or animals anywhere near.  To do this SAFELY it needs thought and care.  THE WOOD PARTS NEED TO BE REMOVED COMPLETELY FROM THE GUN.  Both nitro moors and caustic soda will damage any metal that they come into contact with.

you can ask me more specific questions and I will try to help as much as I can.

Edited December 11 by Minky